Your third day is all about getting into the real Philadelphia. Spend the morning experiencing the gritty, belly-busting, old-school charms of the Italian Market and the afternoon admiring the refined, world-renowned collections of the Barnes Foundation in Merion. Call ahead for reservations to the Barnes -- and don't bother with the hotel's breakfast buffet. Your day is going to start out with serious sustenance, South Philly-style. Start: 9th and Fitzwater streets.
1. Italian Market
There are fancier places to buy produce, cheeses, meats, and fresh bread in town, but none is as authentic-feeling as this stretch of 9th Street. I love to go here in the morning, when the vendors are just waking up, the fruit and vegetables seem freshest, and the crowds are thinnest. I recommend starting at Fitzwater and 9th streets to get to Sarcone's Bakery, where you'll pay less than $2 for a loaf of sesame-seed coated Italian bread.
Past Christian Street, market vendors, mostly on the east side of the street, hawk their broccoli rabe, strawberries, and oranges -- just off the docks of South Philly -- by shouting to passersby. The guys in the cheese shops (the west side of the street) dole out generous samples of sharp and dry Locatelli, soft French cheeses, and salty, shriveled cured olives. Locals like to start with a big breakfast at the Morning Glory at 10th and Fitzwater streets or Shank and Evelyn's at 10th Street between Christian and Washington. But you could get by with a cappuccino from one of the cafes, and nibbling your way around.
One Last Cheesesteak
From the Market, it's a short walk south to the most famous cheesesteak stands of them all. Pat's King of Steaks and Geno's Steaks are farther down 9th Street, past Washington Avenue, at the intersection of 9th Street, Passyunk Avenue, and Wharton Street. Remember to order "wid" or "widout" onions and Cheez Whiz.
How you get to your last destination is up to you. If you've driven into town, take I-76 (Schuylkill Expwy.) west to City Line Avenue (Rte. 1), then south on City Line 1 1/2 miles to Old Lancaster Road. Turn right onto Old Lancaster, continue 4 blocks, and turn left onto Latches Lane. If you're car-free, take Paoli local train R5 to Merion Station, walk up Merion Road, and turn left onto Latches Lane; it's an easy, 10-minute walk. By bus, take no. 44 to Old Lancaster Road and Latches Lane.
2. Barnes Foundation
Dr. Albert Barnes's amazing collection of Picassos, Renoirs, Cézannes, Matisses, and much, much more is famous not only for its impressive size and depth; it's also famous for its organization. America's greatest art collector apparently spent time each evening in the art-lined halls of his Merion mansion, arranging and rearranging his prizes. You'll be absolutely blown away by his displays of sculpture, paintings, African tribal masks, Amish chests, and antique doors. It's unlike anything else in the world. And, with the museum's plans to move to the Benjamin Franklin Parkway in the coming years, you may never see anything like it again.
