Independence National Historical Park

Is there anyone who doesn't know about the Liberty Bell in Independence Hall? The bell is now housed across the street, but you get the point: The United States was conceived on this ground in 1776, and the future of the young nation was assured by the Constitutional Convention held here in 1787. The choice of Philadelphia as a site was natural because of its centrality, wealth, and gentility. The delegates argued at Independence Hall (then known as the State House) and boarded and dined at City Tavern. Philadelphia was the nation's capital during Washington's second term, so the U.S. Congress and Supreme Court met here for 10 years while awaiting the construction of the new capital in Washington, D.C. From the first penny to the First Amendment, Philadelphia led the nation.

The Independence National Historical Park comprises 40 buildings (half are open to the public) on 45 acres of Center City real estate. The entire park spans 2nd to 6th streets, from Walnut Street to Market Street. Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell, in its new pavilion, lie between 5th and 6th streets at Chestnut Street, and the Park has been overhauled, with some $300 million poured into new attractions, renovations, and landscaping. The Independence Visitor Center 1 block north is well equipped to illustrate the early history of this country, and the new National Constitution Center explores the U.S.'s core document.

This neighborhood is a superb example of successful revitalization. Fifty years ago, this area had become glutted with warehouses, office buildings, and rooming houses. The National Park Service stepped in, soon followed by the Washington Square East urban renewal project now known as Society Hill, after the historic neighborhood it's in. To the east, gardens replaced buildings as far as the Dock Street food market, which was replaced by Society Hill Towers in 1959. Graff House, City Tavern, Pemberton House, and Library Hall were reconstructed on their original sites. Liberty Bell Pavilion and Franklin Court are contemporary structures erected for the Bicentennial of the Declaration of Independence celebrations. The most questionable project was the condemnation and destruction of 3 blocks' worth of commercial buildings to create Independence Mall, a wide swath of greenery opposite Independence Hall.

September 11, 2001, had an inevitable impact on the spontaneous excitement of stepping into the birthplace of American independence: You must pass through a security screening center on Market Street before visiting the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, but most days the process moves fairly quickly.

Between March and December, everyone in your group will need a ticket to visit Independence Hall. They're free, but it's preferable to pay the $1.50 handling charge by calling tel. 800/967-2283 or visiting http://reservations.nps.gov and reserving up to 12 months ahead than to count on same-day walkup service. If you do take the latter course, go to the Visitor Center as early as possible (it opens at 8:30am), to claim up to six tickets for a time slot. The line for free tickets to take one of the frequent, 10-visitors-at-a-time interior tours of the Bishop White House and the Todd House is less intense. There is no tour required for the Second Bank of the United States: It's open to the public daily from 9am to 4pm.

The place to get tickets and most everything else is the Independence Visitor Center, 6th and Market streets (tel. 800/537-7676 or 215/965-7676; www.independencevisitorcenter.com). The Visitor Center should be your first stop in the park, since it's the official visitors' service for the Park, and also provides general tourism services and trip-planning information. There's a cafe and a gift shop selling mementos and park publications, and every 30 minutes the center shows a John Huston feature, Independence, free of charge.

To get to Independence Park, you can take the SEPTA Market-Frankford Line to 5th and Market or 2nd and Market streets. By bus, take the PHLASH or any Chestnut Street bus from Center City.

If you're driving, from I-76, take I-676 east to 6th Street (last exit before the Ben Franklin Bridge), then turn south (right) along Independence Mall. From the Ben Franklin Bridge, make a left onto 6th Street and it's right there after the National Constitution Center. From I-95 southbound, take the Center City exit to 2nd Street. From I-95 northbound, use the exit marked "Historic Area." Turn left on Columbus Boulevard (formerly Delaware Ave.) and follow it to the exit for Market Street (on the right). There's metered parking along most streets, as well as parking facilities (1 hr. $10, 2 hr. $14, all day $16, and 24 hr. $20) under the Visitor Center, at 2nd and Sansom streets, at 125 S. 2nd St. (between Chestnut and Walnut sts.) and just south of Market Street at 36 and 21 S. 2nd St.