Fountain Restaurant

The Four Seasons serves three meals a day in its sprawling, well-appointed dining room -- and all of them feel extra special. Food here, no matter if it's a basket of croissants at 7am or the ornate, mange tout prix-fixe dinners ($85 for four courses, $110 for six) is understated and sophisticated. The menu changes seasonally -- and some ingredients are grown in the hotel's rooftop garden. Lobster and steak star, but edgier choices include seasonal red snapper with snow pea tempura and truffled Caesar salad. Service and surroundings straddle the line between formal and down-to-earth, never even hinting at pretension.

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