Side Trips

Khao Lak

There are lots of adventure tour operators and travel agents on Phuket, all offering a variety of day and overnight trips. Phang Nga Bay is popular for adventure travel.

Just over an hour from the northernmost tip of Phuket, the province of Phang Nga, which includes Khao Lak on its western flanks, was the area hardest hit by the 2004 tsunami. Now almost entirely rebuilt, today it's a burgeoning eco-tourism destination with some magnificent resorts, some new, and some wholly rebuilt. Popular with the Euro and Scandinavian crowds, it attracts nature lovers and provides some great bird-spotting opportunities, waterfalls, lush national parks, and pristine dive spots around the Similan Islands National Marine Park and Koh Surin National Park. (The best diving is from Dec to May.)

Comprising nine islands, the Similan Islands are rated in the top ten best dive sites in the world for the stunning arrays of unspoiled corals, sea fans, sponges, and other marine life. Numerous local dive operators offer short (approx. 3 hrs.) or long trips to these regions from Thap Lamu Pier, just south of Khao Lak. For bungalow or camping accommodations, contact Similan National Park (local office tel. 07641-1913). A similar style of basic accommodations is also available in Koh Surin National Park, (tel. 07649-1378), which comprises five islands with some of the best shallow water corals. Whale sharks are known to frequent these waters, which, in the past, were once the exclusive domain of Phuket's indigenous people, the Sea Gypsies.

Boats leave from Khuraburi Pier, north of Khao Lak, with a journey time of 4 hours to the islands. From here, fans of marine life can take a day trip to isolated Koh Phra Thong to visit the island's conservation center. Manned (only in dry season) by an international team of experts and volunteers, it surveys and protects rare turtles and the region's disappearing, yet ecologically vital, mangroves. Visit www.naucrates.org for info.

Another stellar outfit, the Ecotourism Training Center (ETC), is a nonprofit organization set up by dynamic American, Reid Ridgway, to provide long-term career training to tsunami-affected youth. Established in 2005, the Khao Lak program trains local Thais in sustainable community tourism and diving skills to PADI dive master and instructor level. It now offers trips to interested divers and visitors. For more information, visit www.etcth.org.

Other local attractions include miles of peaceful white sand beaches, elephant trekking, temple tours, white water rafting, and jungle treks. Visit Dior Travel (4/118 Moo 7, Khao Lak; tel. 07644-3248) for offbeat tour suggestions.

Where To Stay -- Many visitors who are tired of Phuket's high prices and full-on party vibe head up here for long or short breaks. Those with the cash can hunker down in some truly sublime oases, such as the award-winning The Sarojin (60 Moo 2, Kukkak, Takuapa, Phang Nga; tel. 07642-7900-4; fax 07642-7906; www.sarojin.com); its lowest rates start at 12,000B (US$243/£180). There's also the totally rebuilt Le Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort north of Khao Lak town (9/9 Moo 1, Kukkak, Takuapa, Phang Nga 82190; tel. 07642-7500; www.lemeridien.com), and Merlin Khao Lak, south of Khao Lak town (7/7 Moo 2, Petchkasem Rd., Khao Lak Beach, Lamkan, Taimuang, Phang Nga 82210; tel. 07642-8300; fax 07644-3200; www.merlinphuket.com). All are pitched at the very high end (so don't think about spending less than 9,000B/US$257/£135 per night, even in low season), and rival the best of Phuket's cushiest hotels and spas.

Midrange hotels come in all shapes and sizes. Try the peaceful area of Cape Pakarang, which is home to the Best Western Palm Galleria Resort (27/102 Moo 2 Kuk Kak, Khao Lak, Phang Nga 82190; tel. 07642-7000; www.khaolakpalmgalleria.com) or Apsaras Beach Resort & Spa (45 Moo 2, Kuk Kak, Khao Lak, Phang Nga 82190; tel. 07658-4444; www.apsarasresort.com). Or closer to town, check out Ramada Resort Khao Lak (59 Moo 5 Bang Niang, Khao Lak, Phang Nga 82190; tel. 07642-7777; www.ramadakhaolak.com).

On the budget end, there are beachside jungle bungalows at Similana Resort (4/7 Moo 1 Kuk Kak, Khao Lak, Phang Nga 82190; tel. 07642-0166; www.khaolak-tropicana.com), with rooms starting at 1,700B (US$48/£26).

Where To Dine -- In addition to the many hotel restaurants on hand, there are countless dining venues in town. Among the best, try Joe's Steak House (56 Moo 5 Bang Niang, Khao Lak; tel. 0878-936833), which is open for dinner only -- reservations are highly recommended. For Thai food, Jai Restaurant (Main Rd.; no phone) is excellent and just two doors down from Khao Lak's most happening late-night live music bar, Happy Snapper (Main Rd, 5/2 Moo 7, Khao Lak; tel. 07648-5500; www.happysnapperbar.com). O'Connor's Irish Pub (no phone) is a few steps away. The German owner offers Thai cooking classes and serves great Guinness with his home-cooked European meals.

Yao Islands

Midway to Krabi and 1 hour's boat ride from Phuket's Bang Rong Pier (north of Boat Lagoon, turn east at the Heroines' Monument), the twin islands of Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi are where nature lovers head to enjoy some scenery and relax. Described as "Phi Phi 20 years back," Phang Nga Bay's two largest islands are not at all touristy and great for cruising by motorbike (available for rent on both islands at 200B/US$6/£3.10 per day). The nearest things to civilization here are the 7-Eleven store and ATM on Koh Yao Noi. (Note: If you're running out of cash on Yao Yai, you'll need to head here.)

More active travelers can go kayaking, bird-watching, or head off to explore nearby uninhabited islands by long-tail. In addition, there's fishing, jungle walks, or the exhaustive sport of hammock-swinging: It all makes for a perfect island escape.

Ferries to both islands leave Bang Rong Pier at 9am, 11am, 12:30pm, 2:30pm, and 5pm; local ferries also depart daily from Koh Sire Pier in Phuket Town. Call ahead to your accommodations to arrange transport from the pier.

Where To Stay -- There are 10 to 12 bungalow resorts on Koh Yao Noi that are open all year. Prices vary from 700B to 12,000B (US$20-US$343/£11-£185) a night. For budget bungalow resorts, try Sabai Corner (tel. 07659-7497; www.sabaicornerbungalows.com), which has fairly standard rooms from 1,000B (US$28/£15). A midrange favorite is Koh Yao Island Resort (tel. 07659-7474; www.koyao.com), with rooms from 4,000B (US$114/£62). For luxury bungalows, prices at Koh Yao Pavilions (tel. 07659-7441; www.koyaobay.com) start at a fairly reasonable 5,500B (US$157/£85).

On Koh Yao Yai, the Yao Yai Island Resort (tel. 08947-19110; www.yaoyairesort.com) has bungalows from 1,200B (US$34/£18) and the similarly priced Heimat Gardens Guesthouse (tel. 08579-47428; www.heimatgardens.com) is equally close to the beach and offers friendly service.

Racha Islands and Phang Nga Bay

The islands collectively known as Koh Racha (also spelt Raja, or Raya) are yet another popular side trip from southern Phuket, either for day excursions or longer escapes. Speedboats (trip time: 20 min.) or long-tails (trip time: 1-2 hrs.) can be hired from Chalong Pier or Rawai beachfront for the journey in clement weather. Accommodations on the main Koh Racha (Yai) range from simple bungalows from 800B (US$23/£11.75) to five-star glamour at The Racha (tel. 07635-5455 or 07628-0811; www.theracha.com) on the unforgettably beautiful white sands of Batok Bay. Prices for villas start from 8,500B to 65,000B (US$243-US$1,857/£130-£1,000).

Phang Nga Bay, with its arching karst limestone spires, made famous in the James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun, is a very popular day trip by boat -- some might say too popular, with hordes of tour groups massing on its tiny beaches. A more peaceful trip around the bay by sea kayak is possibly a better bet. Koh Phi Phi is another oversold day trip for snorkeling, or more commonly an overnight stay from Phuket.