Getting Around

Public transportation is a problem on Phuket that never seems to get solved. It's also very confusing for a few reasons. First of all, if you've spent any time in other parts of the country, you'll know that the covered pickup trucks that cruise the streets picking up and dropping off passengers are called songtao, while the noisy motorized three-wheel demon vehicles are known as tuk-tuks. Not so on Phuket! Here, the people call the minitrucks tuk-tuks, while songtao are the giant colorful buses that ply the main roads (a few people also call them "baht buses").

Here's the problem: Tuk-tuk drivers, in an attempt to generate more business, have lobbied successfully for exclusive rights to transport people between beaches. This means the songtao buses are only permitted to travel from each beach to Phuket Town. You can't hop from beach to beach on them. For these trips you have to negotiate with the tuk-tuk drivers.

By Songtao -- The local bus terminal is in front of the Central Market on Ranong Road in Phuket Town. Fares to the most popular beaches range from 20B to 30B (45¢-70¢). Songtaos leave when full, usually every 30 minutes, from 7am to 6pm between Phuket town and the main beaches on the west coast. They do not operate routes between beaches.

By Tuk-Tuk & Daihatsu Mini -- Within Phuket Town, tuk-tuks cost about 20B to 40B (50¢-$1) for in-town trips: a good way to get to the bus station or to Phuket Town's restaurants.

In the west-coast beaches, tuk-tuks and small Daihatsu mini-trucks roll around town honking at any tourist on foot, especially in Patong. It is the only way to travel between beaches. Bargain hard and beware that these guys will try to eke every baht out of you. Expect to pay about 300B ($7.30) from town to the airport, 150B ($3.65) from town to Patong Beach and 120B ($2.90) from Patong Beach to Karon Beach. It costs more late at night and less if you can bargain ruthlessly (remember that you're choosing from tens of drivers and walking away, or to the next vehicle, when the price isn't right is an effective tactic).

By Motorcycle Taxi -- Drivers, identifiable by colored vests, make short trips within Phuket town or along Patong Beach for 20B-40B (50¢-$1). Don't let them talk you into any but short in-town rides, in other words, the winding roads between beaches, unless you're looking for a hair-raising adventure.

By Car -- Self-drive is popular in Phuket but extreme caution applies. Roads between the main beaches in the west and connecting with Phuket Town across the center of the island are dangerously steep and winding with more than a few hairpin turns and lots of traffic and motorbikes zipping around unpredictably. As in other parts of the kingdom, drivers pass aggressively, even on blind curves, and self-driving visitors will want to be very defensive and alert at all times.

Avis has a counter at Phuket Airport (tel. 07653-1243). Plan on spending around 1,500B to 1,800B ($36-$44) per day for a Suzuki Caribian 4WD sport vehicle. Budget (tel. 07620-5396) is a bit cheaper and has an airport location as well as counters at a number of hotels (JW Marriott, Evason Resort, Club Andaman Beach Resort in Patong). Both companies offer sedans, and both also have sound insurance coverage available, which is highly recommended.

Inexpensive Suzuki Caribians can be rented from almost all travel agents and from hotels at the beach areas. Prices start at 1,200B ($29) per day. Independent agents hang around under umbrellas along Patong Beach and offer great bargains if you negotiate. Caribians go for as little as 900B ($22) a day (negotiable!), and 1,500B ($34) and over for open-top Jeeps and souped-up four-wheel drive off-road vehicles. While many resorts will rent you a car, I've found that the independent dealers have the same product for less money. Don't count on the insurance policy.

By Motorcycle -- Also along the Patong strip, the same car-rental guys will provide you with a bike for cheap. A 100cc Honda scooter goes for 200B ($4.90) per day, while a 400cc Honda CBR or a 600cc Honda Shadow chopper will set you back at least 600B ($15) per day. Significant discounts can be negotiated if you plan to rent for a longer time. Wear your helmet (sometimes-enforced fines of 500B/$12 for going without), keep to the left and let cars pass. You're sure to meet-up with a few road-rashed travelers in any beach area and there is no quicker way to end a vacation than on slippery, treacherous roads, especially for inexperienced riders, so take practice caution.