Attractions

Wet Adventrues: Getting Out on the Water

It's not a question of whether you'll go out on the water in Marlborough Sounds, but rather which vessel you'll be on. The ferries from Wellington provide a good introductory view as they make their way toward Picton, but for a closer look you'll need to go out on a smaller, more specialized boat. The Cougar Line, The Waterfront, Picton (tel. 0800/504-090 in NZ, or 03/573-7925; www.cougarlinecruises.co.nz), has a range of cruise options in Queen Charlotte Sound. If your time is limited, take the short cruise, which departs from Picton at 10am and returns at 1:30pm; or the One Hour Hidden Bays Cruise (NZ$45/US$32/£16) which departs Picton at 11:30am and 3pm. This is a good way to fill in time if you're waiting for the ferry. Also offered are a twilight cruise during peak season and a popular cruise-and-walk option to suit all levels of fitness. All-day tours cost NZ$63 (US$45/£23) per person.

Another option is the 4-hour Queen Charlotte Sound Mail Run Cruise operated by Beachcomber Cruises, London Quay, Picton (tel. 03/573-6175; www.mailboat.co.nz) for NZ$75 (US$53/£27). Or try the Pelorus Mail Run (tel. 03/574-1088; www.mail-boat.co.nz), which departs Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from Havelock at 9:30am and costs NZ$105 (US$75/£38) for adults, free for children. Tea and coffee are supplied, but bring your lunch. A courtesy coach is available to and from Picton.

Sea kayaking is one of the best ways to get intimate and up close to the Sounds. I had my first-ever kayaking experience here and now I'm hooked. Two recommended outfitters to go with are Sea Kayaking Adventure Tours, Anakiwa Road, RD1, Picton (tel. 0800/262-5492 in NZ, or 03/574-2765; www.nzseakayaking.com), which has day trips from NZ$85 (US$60/£30); and Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company, London Quay, Picton (tel. 0800/283-283 in NZ, or 03/573-6078; www.marlboroughsounds.co.nz). The latter company is the larger of the two and has more boats, more extensive trips, and the most central Picton base. Its most popular trip is the 1-day excursion for NZ$95 (US$67/£34) per person. For those who like sailing, Compass Charters, 20 Beach Rd., Waikawa Marina, Picton (tel. 0800/101-332 in NZ, or 03/573-8332; www.compass-charters.co.nz), is the South Island's largest charter company. They have budget to luxury-yacht and launch cruises -- skippered or self-driven -- priced according to the vessel and duration. Renwick-based Affinity Cruises (tel. 0800/862-334 in NZ, or 03/572-7223; www.affinitycruises.co.nz) offers excellent 2-, 5-, or 7-day cruises with private cabins, from NZ$335 (US$238/£121) per person per day.

Birdwatchers will love the remote Chetwode and Outer Island Bird Tour run by French Pass Sea Safaris, French Pass, Marlborough Sounds (tel. 03/576-5204; www.seasafaris.co.nz), which takes you to a closed nature reserve (Feb-Apr only), to see a diverse mix of birds and marine mammals for NZ$140 (US$99/£50) per person.

If you're a food, wine, and water lover, opt for the Marlborough Travel Greenshell Mussel Cruise (tel. 0800/990-800 in NZ, or 03/577-9997; www.marlboroughtravel.co.nz). This terrific half-day outing takes you into the stunning Sounds environment, visiting a Greenshell mussel farm, where you'll be treated to a feast of yummy, freshly steamed mussels with a complimentary glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The tour operates November through March, departing Havelock and Picton at 1:30pm daily and from Portage Resort Hotel at 3pm daily. It costs NZ$100 (US$71/£36) from Portage and Havelock and NZ$130 (US$92/£47) from Picton, and is worth every cent.

Although passengers on any of these vessels may see dolphins, Dolphin Watch Ecotours, Picton Foreshore (tel. 0800/9453-5433 in NZ, or 03/573-8040; www.naturetours.co.nz), makes these lovely creatures the focus of its naturalist tours. A Dolphin Swimming Ecotour costs NZ$130 (US$92/£47) per person, and a Dolphin Viewing Ecotour costs NZ$80 (US$57/£29) per person. They also have an excellent bird-watcher's tour for NZ$95 (US$68/£34) per person.

If you have fishing on your mind, call up Havelock-based Captain Clay's Snapper Fishing Charters (tel. 03/574-2914; bluecottage@actrix.co.nz); or Sounds Connection, 10 London Quay, Picton (tel. 0800/742-866; www.soundsconnection.co.nz), who offer a half-day fishing adventure for NZ$79 (US$56/£29) per person, departing Picton at 1pm.

Especially for Kids

There's a real treat in store for young and old alike at the new Seahorse World Aquarium, Picton Foreshore (tel. 0800/800-081 in NZ, or 03/573-6030; www.seahorseworld.co.nz). Watch tiny, mysterious seahorses court and dance, see thousands of babies at various stages of growth, and find out about the mysteries of the male pregnancy. On top of that, there's a 6m (20-ft.) preserved giant squid -- only one of two examples in the Southern Hemisphere. Kids can also get up close and personal with crayfish, sharks, stingrays, and the multitudes of fishes that thrive in New Zealand waters. Fish are fed at 11am and 2pm and there are free guided tours (excluding entry fee) at 10am, noon, 1pm, and 3pm. Check out the fossil displays and ask about the new ecotours to the natural paradise of Blumine Island in Marlborough Sounds.

The Queen Charlotte Walkway

If you're like me and love walking but hate carrying things, the Queen Charlotte Walkway is just for you. It's a 1- to 4-day experience with amazing views and not a pack in sight. That's because kind people in boats do all the pack lifting and transferring of your goodies for you. Even better, you don't have to stay in cramped huts or tents, as there are smart lodgings along the way. Briefly, the 71km (44-mile) walking track passes through lush coastal forest, around coves and inlets, and along skyline ridges with breathtaking views of Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru sounds. If you've got time, try the excellent kayak/walk combos offered by Wilderness Guides, 3 Auckland St., Picton (tel. 0800/266-266 in NZ, or 03/520-3095; www.wildernessguidesnz.com), from NZ$130 (US$92/£47) per day. You can also tackle the track on mountain bikes. Cycle Adventure Tours Downunder, 1 Auckland St., Picton (tel. 03/573-8565; www.cyclenz.com) has 1-day bike rentals from NZ$45 (US$29/£15) and 1- to 3-day guided tours from NZ$415 (US$295/£149), which includes transport, gear, and accommodation. You need a reasonable level of fitness.

Wine, Wine and More Wine

It doesn't matter what time of year you visit Marlborough, because the weather is invariably balmy (with a few frosty winter mornings), and there's always wine to drink if all else fails. If you stand on any high point, you'll see grapevines spread across the rolling landscape in all directions as far as the eye can see. In just over 25 years, Marlborough has established itself as one of the world's premier wine-producing regions, producing over 50% of New Zealand's total wine production. There are around 110 wineries in the area; many have restaurants, most have tastings, and some have galleries or crafts shops. Pick up the free Marlborough Winemakers map and the Top of the South Wine Guide from the visitor center before setting off, or check out www.winemarlborough.net.nz. You would also be wise to get a copy of The Classic New Zealand Wine Trail from visitor centers throughout the country. Following are a few wineries of note.

More than 30 years ago, Montana Brancott Winery, State Highway 1, Main Road South, Riverlands (tel. 03/572-9054; www.montanawines.co.nz), planted the first vines in the region, and today it's New Zealand's largest winery. Tours leave Monday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm. The wine shop and the huge (and sometimes noisy) Montana Brancott Restaurant are open daily from 10am to 3pm.

Those with an eye for good wines will be familiar with Cloudy Bay, Jacksons Road, Blenheim (tel. 03/520-9140; www.cloudybay.co.nz). Its name is well known internationally, and 75% of its acclaimed sauvignon blanc is exported. It also produces chardonnay, cabernet merlot, and a sparkling wine, Pelorus. It's open for tasting and sales daily from 10am to 5pm (closed Dec 25).

Allan Scott Wines & Estates, Jacksons Road, Blenheim (tel. 03/572-9054; www.allanscott.com), is just across the road and has a good vineyard restaurant called Twelve Trees. The winery produces chardonnay, sauvignon, and Riesling. The cellar is open for tasting daily from 9am to 4:30pm; the restaurant opens daily for lunch at noon.

Hunter's Wines, Rapaura Road, Blenheim (tel. 03/572-8489; www.hunters.co.nz), is home to Jane Hunter, acclaimed as one of the five best women winemakers in the world. The winery is hugely popular with tour groups. The restaurant is open daily from noon until late; the wine shop, Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 4:30pm and Sunday from 11am to 3:30pm.

Grove Mill, Waihopai Valley Road, Renwick (tel. 03/572-8200; www.grovemill.co.nz), is well worth a visit, especially if you're also an art lover. In addition to producing medal-winning chardonnay, Riesling, and cabernet sauvignon, its gallery features exhibitions of nationally recognized New Zealand artists. It's open daily from 11am to 5pm.

Highfield Estate, Brookby Road, Blenheim (tel. 03/572-9244; www.highfield.co.nz), which produces classic varietal wines, has wine tastings, cellar door sales, and a restaurant with stunning views. It's open daily from 10:30am to 5pm.

Wairau River Wines, corner of Rapaura Road and State Highway 6, Blenheim (tel. 03/572-9800; www.wairauriverwines.com), has one of the best winery restaurants in the Marlborough region -- a reliable brasserie with an innovative blackboard menu at reasonable prices. It's housed in a charming mud-brick building, has cellar-door sales, and is open daily 10am to 5pm.

Mahi Wines, Terrace Road, Renwick (tel. 03/572-8859; www.mahiwine.co.nz), has a delightful cafe. French winemaker Daniel Le Brun established the vineyard in 1980, and with 12 generations of champagne making behind him, he's truly established in his new venture. It's open 10am to 4:30pm.

Johanneshof Cellars, State Highway 1, Koromiko (tel. 03/573-7035; www.johanneshof.co.nz), has spectacular underground wine cellars blasted into the hillside.

Winery Tours -- The Sounds Connection, 10 London Quay, Picton (tel. 0800/742-866 in NZ, or 03/573-8843; www.soundsconnection.co.nz), has half- and full-day tours from NZ$65 (US$46/£23). Its groups are smaller than some larger companies, and you can choose the vineyards. If you want some exercise while you see the wineries, call Wine Tours By Bike, 191 Bells Rd., Blenheim (tel. 03/577-6954; www.winetoursbybike.co.nz), which will take you on an exploration of its favorite cycling roads, scenic spots, vineyards, wineries, arts, crafts, and olive or fruit farms. Stop at a vineyard for lunch (extra cost) and soak up the quiet calm of this divine area. The tour costs NZ$60 (US$42/£21) per person. In addition to its tours, Marlborough Wine Tours, 24 Bythell St., Blenheim (tel. 03/578-9515; www.marlboroughwinetours.co.nz), offers an excellent worldwide shipping service for any wines you've purchased anywhere in New Zealand -- and you won't have to pay any taxes.

Sleeping Among the Grapes -- There is a growing number of vineyard accommodations for visitors to choose from. Walnut Block Cottages, 43 Blicks Lane, Blenheim (tel. 03/577-9187; www.walnutblock.co.nz), has two lovely, new one-bedroom, self-contained cottages right beside vines, for just NZ$200 (US$142/£72) per night, which is a great value. Another option is Straw Lodge, 17 Fareham Lane, Blenheim (tel. 03/572-9767; www.strawlodge.co.nz), where three lovely private vineyard suites have their own courtyard and facilities. Rooms cost from NZ$255 to NZ$348 (US$181-US$247/£92-£125). Vintners Retreat, 55 Rapaura Rd., Blenheim (tel. 03/572-5094; www.vintnersretreat.co.nz), has a wide range of stylish one-, two-, and three-bedroom self-contained villas nestled among the vines, ranging in price from NZ$200 to NZ$480 (US$142-US$341/£72-£173). At St. Leonards Vineyard Cottages, 18 St. Leonards Rd., Blenheim (tel. 03/577-8328; www.stleonards.co.nz), choose from five delightful self-contained cottages for NZ$100 to NZ$370 (US$71-US$263/£36-£133).

Taste Sensations -- Marlborough is home to around 120 olive groves and a number of commercial presses. At the first New Zealand Extra Virgin Olive Oils Awards in 2002, Marlborough growers won more than 30% of all awards. A number of growers welcome visitors and you can get a list of their names from the visitor center, or contact the Marlborough branch of Olives New Zealand (www.olivesnz.org.nz). You can also visit The Village, 193 Rapaura Rd. (tel. 03/579-3520; www.thevillage.co.nz), for a wide range of wines, olive oils, schnapps, liquors, and a cafe. And to satisfy your sweet tooth, you can now visit Northland's Makana Confections, premier chocolate makers, which has set up a not-to-be-missed shop on the corner of Rapaura and O'Dwyers roads, Blenheim (tel. 03/570-5370; www.makana.co.nz), open daily 9am to 5:30pm.