Regions in Brief

Just to the south of Alba lie some of the region's, and Italy's, most enchanting wine villages. As you set out to explore the wine country, consider three words: Rent a car. While it's quite easy to reach some of the major towns by train or bus from Turin, setting out from those centers for smaller places can be difficult (there are some buses, but they tend to be very few and far between). In Turin, contact Avis, Corso Turati 15 (tel. 011-500-852; www.avis.com), or Hertz, at Via Magellano 12 (tel. 011-502-080; www.hertz.it) and Via Ascoli 39 (tel. 011-437-8175). Before you head out on the labyrinth of small country roads, outfit yourself with a good map and a list of vineyards from the tourist office in Alba or Asti.

The Wines

While the wines of Chianti and other Tuscan regions are on the top of the list for many oenologically minded travelers, the wines of Piedmont are often less heralded among non-Italians, and unjustifiably so. Most are of exceptional quality and usually made with grapes grown only in the Piedmont and often on tiny family plots, making the region a lovely patchwork of vineyards and small farms. Below are some wines you are likely to encounter repeatedly as you explore the area.

Barbaresco is refined, dry, and, with Barolo, one of the region's most exalted wines. Barbera d'Alba is smooth and rich, the product of many of the delightful villages south of Alba. Barolo is called the king of reds (and is considered one of Italy's top two wines), the richest and heartiest of the Piedmont wines, and the one most likely to accompany game or meat. Dolcetto is dry, fruity, and mellow (not sweet, as its name leads many to assume). Nebbiolo d'Alba is rich, full, and dry (the best Nebbiolo grapes are used to make Barbaresco and Barolo).

Spumanti is the sparkling wine that has put Asti on the map for many travelers, and Moscato d'Asti is a floral dessert wine. You can taste and purchase these wines at cantinas and enoteche in almost all towns and villages throughout the region; several are noted below.

The Region

The central road through the region and running between Alba and Asti is S231, a heavily trafficked and unattractive highway that links many of the region's towns and cities; turn off this road whenever possible to explore the region's more rustic backwaters.

One of the loveliest drives takes you south of Alba to a string of wine villages in what are known as the Langhe hills (from Corso Europa, a ring road that encircles the Old City in Alba, follow signs out of town for Barolo). After 8km (5 miles), you'll come to the turnoff for Grinzane di Cavour, a hilltop village built around a castle housing an enoteca (tel. 0173-262-159), open February to December, Wednesday to Monday 9am to noon and 2 to 6pm (2:30-6:30pm in summer), where you can enjoy a fine sampling of local wines from their more than 300 labels.

Continuing south another 4km (2 1/2 miles), you'll come to the turnoff to La Morra, another hilltop village that affords stunning views over the rolling, vineyard-clad countryside from its central Piazza Castello (with parking). It has places to eat and to taste the local wines. The Cantina Comunale di La Morra (tel. 0173-509-204), on the Piazza del Municipo, operates both as the local tourist office and as a representative for local growers, selling and offering tastings of Barolo, Nebbiolo, Barbara, and Dolcetto. You can also procure a map of hikes in the local countryside, many of which take you through the vineyards to the doors of local growers. It's open Wednesday to Monday 10am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6:30pm.

Barolo, a romantic-looking place dominated by its 12th-century castle (about 5km/3 miles from La Morra), is directly across the valley from La Morra and enticingly in view from miles around. Here, too, are a number of restaurants and shops selling the village's rich red wines. Among these outlets is the Castello di Barolo itself (tel. 0173-56-277; www.turismoinlanga.it), which houses a small wine bar, enoteca (where you can taste), and tourist office in its cavernous cellars. A tasting of three of Barolo's wines (all from the same year but different zones so you can more accurately compare labels) costs 5€ ($6.50). It's open Friday to Wednesday 10am to 12:30pm and 3 to 6pm (closed Jan). The castle and its wine museum are undergoing renovations until 2009 (the wine bar will remain open throughout). The entrance fee before the renovations was 4.50€ ($5.85) for an obligatory guide in English (or 3.50€/$4.55 for a guide in Italian.)

Tiny Novello is a hilltop village about 15km (9 1/4 miles) south of Alba and located about 3km (2 miles) away from Barolo on well-signposted roads. It crowns the adjoining hilltop, offering some pleasant accommodations and yet more stunning views.