Low hills and quilted fields channel the Connecticut River as it runs south toward Long Island Sound, forming the Pioneer Valley. The earliest European settlers came here for what proved to be uncommonly fertile soil and were followed in the 19th century by men who harnessed the power of the river and became wealthy textile and paper manufacturers.
These industrialists took the lead in funding the institutions of higher learning that are now the pride of the region. Prestigious Smith, Mount Holyoke, and Amherst are here, as are innovative Hampshire College and the sprawling main campus of the University of Massachusetts, with its 25,000 students. All five contribute mightily to the cultural life of the valley, and the towns of Northampton, Amherst, and South Hadley are invigorated by the vitality of thousands of college-age young people.
In the north, near Vermont, the living village of Deerfield preserves the architecture and atmosphere of Colonial New England, but without the whiff of sterility that often afflicts artificial gatherings of old buildings with costumed docents.
Interstate 91 and Route 5 both traverse the valley from south to north. The trip from edge to edge on the interstate takes less than an hour, while Route 5 tenders more of the flavor of pastoral vistas and colorful mill towns.
There are plenty of motels along the way, but if you're looking for lodgings more representative of the character of the region, contact the Folkstone Bed & Breakfast Reservation Service (tel. 800/762-2751 or 508/480-0380).
