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"St. Bartholomew in the Swamp" is a 12th-century enlargement of an 8th-century church that has been sinking slowly into its namesake bog for more than a millennium. In the dark interior, you may be able to make out the 13th-century fresco in the apse, and you'll certainly stumble over the pulpit by Guido da Como (1250), one of the quirkier medieval sculptors. The crouching figure supporting one of the back columns is said to be a self-portrait.