Do as the Carters do and head for nearby Americus -- notably, the Grand Dining Room at the Windsor Hotel, 125 W. Lamar St. (tel. 888/297-9567 or 229/924-1555). This high-ceilinged, historic restaurant reigns in a town filled with rustic, down-home contenders. Expect the most generous luncheon buffet available. Dinners showcase upscale versions of Caesar salad garnished with shrimp or chicken, quail stuffed with rice and served with a brandy-cream sauce, and a delectable version of pork Normandy, stuffed with apples and served with an apple-brandy sauce. Main courses cost $15 to $24.
