En Route South: Playas Hermosa, Esterillos and Bejuco
Playa Hermosa is the first beach you'll hit as you head south from Playa de Jacó. This is primarily a surfers' beach, but it is still a lovely spot to spend some beach time. In fact, even though the surf conditions here can be rather rough and unprotected, and the beach is made of dark volcanic sand, I find Playa Hermosa and the beaches south of it much more attractive than Jacó. After Playa Hermosa you will hit Esterillos, which is actually divided up by rivers into three sections, Esterillos Oeste, Esterillos Centro, Esterillos Este, each with a separate well marked entrance. Farther south (which because of how the coast turns here, is actually more easterly), lies Playa Bejuco.
At night most folks in Playa Hermosa find their way to The Backyard, a raucous surfer bar with a pool table, darts, and hearty food.
Note: While beautiful, isolated and relatively undeveloped, the beaches of Hermosa, Esterillos, and Bejuco can be quite rough at times and dangerous for swimming. Caution is highly advised here.
Where to Stay
There are a host of simple hotels and cabinas catering to surfers in Playa Hermosa. Prices, conditions, and upkeep can vary greatly. If you've got the time, your best bet is to visit a few until you find the best deal on the cleanest room. Costa Nera (tel. 643-7044) and Cabinas Las Arenas (tel. 643-7013; www.cabinaslasarenas.com) are two good options.
If you're looking for something more remote and undeveloped, head to Playa Esterillos Este for the Pelican Hotel (tel. 778-8105; www.pelicanbeachfronthotel.com), or head slightly farther south to the nearly deserted Playa Bejuco and the small Delfin Beach Resort (tel. 778-8054; www.delfinbeachfront.com).
