Hotels

Playa has a lot of small hotels with affordable prices that give you a better feel for the town than staying in one of the resorts in Playacar. Don't hesitate to book a place that's not on the beach. Town life here is much of the fun, and staying on the beach in Playa has its disadvantages -- in particular, the noise from a couple of beach bars. Beaches are public property in Mexico, and you can lay out your towel anywhere you like. There are some beach clubs in north Playa where, for a small sum, you can have the use of lounge chairs, towels, and food and drink.

High season is from mid-December to Easter. August is also high season for some hotels but not others. During other times of the year, you can come to Playa and look for walk-in offers. The rates listed below include the 12% hotel tax. I don't include the rates for Christmas to New Year's, which are still higher than the standard high-season rates.

Choosing an All-Inclusive in the Riviera Maya

There are more than 40 all-inclusive resorts on this coast. Most people are familiar with the concept -- large hotels that work with economies of scale to offer lodging, food, and drink all for a single, low rate. All-inclusives offer convenience and economy, especially for families with many mouths to feed. And, because they are enclosed areas, they make it easy for parents to keep an eye on their children.

There is a certain sameness about these hotels so that a lot can be said that applies to all. They're usually built around a large pool with activities and an activities organizer. There is often a quiet pool, too. One large buffet restaurant and a snack bar serve the needs of most guests, but there will be a couple of specialty restaurants at no extra charge but for which the guest has to make reservations. Colored bracelets serve to identify guests. In the evenings a show is presented at the hotel's theater.

These resorts work best for those who are looking for a relaxing beach vacation and to get away from the cold weather. They don't work for those who aim to get away from crowds -- these hotels are large and operate with a high occupancy rate. Yes, staying at these all-inclusives is convenient and hassle-free. They make everything easy, including taking tours and day trips -- all the organizing is done for you. On the downside, you don't often get the spontaneity or the sense of adventure that comes with other styles of travel. The question you have to ask yourself is "what kind of vacation am I looking for?"

The best way to get a room at an all-inclusive is through a vacation packager or one of its travel agents. You get a better deal than by contacting the hotel directly. Even if you have frequent-flier miles to burn, you will still find it difficult to match the rates of a full package offered by one of the biggies like Funjet.

Of the many all-inclusives in the Riviera Maya, there are a few that are my favorites and might bear looking into.

Of the several all-inclusives that are in Playa del Carmen/Playacar, I like Iberostar Quetzal or Tucán (two names for different halves of the same hotel; www.iberostar.com). The food is better than at most, and the central part of the hotel is made of raised walkways and terraces over the natural mangrove habitat.

The Hotel Copacabana in Xpu-Ha (www.hotelcopacabana.com) has raised walkways, preserving much of the flora and making it visually interesting. And Xpu-Ha is blessed with a stunning beach.

Also in Xpu-Ha is the Xpu-Ha Palace (www.palaceresorts.com), built on the grounds of a failed nature park. It has some keen features, including lagoons and jungle, and offers several facilities for kids, including a small crocodile hatchery. The hotel is spread out over a large area and necessarily involves a good bit of walking, but this also makes it feel like more of a getaway.

Aventura Spa Palace (www.palaceresorts.com) is another hotel in the Palace chain -- this one is just for grown-ups. It has a large spa and gym and attractive common areas and guest rooms. There is a large pool but no beach; guests can take a shuttle to the Xpu-Ha property if they want.

Freedom Paradise (www.freedomparadise.com) is billed as the first size-friendly vacation resort. The management has worked hard to create an environment that large people will find comfortable. I like it because it doesn't have all the froufrou of so many other resorts -- it's friendly and unpretentious.

North of Playa del Carmen

Beach Cabañas -- Five kilometers (3 miles) north of Playa are some economical lodgings on a mostly rocky beach. A sign that says PUNTA BETE marks the access road to Xcalacoco; in a short time you arrive at the water. Before you do, the road forks off in a few places, and you'll see signs for different cabañas. The word conjures up visions of idyllic native-style dwellings with thatched roofs, but as often as not on the Yucatecan coast, it means simple lodging. This is mostly the case here, with rates running $45 to $60 (£25-£33) a night for two people. Of the four groupings of cabañas in Xcalacoco, the one I like best is Coco's Cabañas (for reservations tel. 998/874-7056; for info see www.travel-center.com). It's a grouping of a handful of rooms with electricity and ceiling fans; a good, inexpensive little restaurant; and a small pool. Two of the rooms have air-conditioning. Next door is The Tides Riviera Maya, a spa resort.

New Golf Resort -- Competition for the luxury tourism market just heated up with the arrival of Mayakoba. I don't know who is behind this project, but they definitely know what they're doing. They started with a golf course designed by Greg Norman. Then they organized a PGA tour event here in 2007 -- the first PGA tournament ever in Mexico. And they've lined up a dazzling collection of resort properties: Fairmount, Viceroy, Rosewood, and Banyan Tree. When I visited, only the Fairmount was open, but the rest were going to be in operation by sometime in 2008. The resorts are designed to be a kind of connected endeavor -- guests of one resort can sample the amenities of the other three, including restaurants and spas. For more information, check out www.mayakoba.com.

Spa Resorts -- In the area around Puerto Morelos, four spa resorts offer different versions of the hedonistic resort experience. Only 20 to 30 minutes from the Cancún airport, they are well situated for a quick weekend escape from the daily grind. You can jet down to Cancún, get whisked away by the hotel car, and be on the beach with a cocktail in hand before you can figure out whether you crossed a time zone. All four resorts pride themselves on their service, amenities, and spa and salon treatments. Being in the Yucatán, they like to add the healing practices of the Maya, especially the use of the native steam bath, called temazcal. Rates quoted include taxes but not the 5% to 10% service charge.