Visiting the Ruined Cities of the Maya -- There are four cities within easy reach of Playa and most of the coast. The easiest to reach is Tulum. A half-hour inland from Tulum on a pockmarked road is Cobá, rising up from a jungle setting. This city has not been reconstructed to the same degree as the other three and doesn't have the rich imagery or clearly delineated architecture. Its description is also in the Tulum section. The other two cites, Chichén Itzá and Ek Balam, are 2 1/2 hours distant in the interior of the peninsula. My favorite way of seeing them is to rent a car and drive to Chichén in the afternoon, check into a hotel (perhaps one with a pool), see the sound-and-light show that evening, and then tour the ruins in the cool of the morning before the big bus tours arrive. Then drive back via Valladolid and Ek Balam.
Tours -- From Playa and the rest of the coast there are tours to all of the above-mentioned ruins. The tour buses usually stop at a few places along the way for refreshments and souvenirs, which is why I prefer the small tours. Some combine the ruins of Tulum with a visit to a nature park. There is a tour agency in Playa called Alltournative (tel. 984/873-2036; www.alltournative.com), which offers small tours that combine a little of everything: culture (visit a contemporary Maya village), adventure (kayaking, rappelling, snorkeling, cenote diving), natural history, and ruins. It offers these tours daily using vans for transportation. The tours are fun. You can call the agency directly or arrange a tour through your hotel; they pick up at most of the large resorts along the coast. Selvática (tel. 998/849-5510; www.selvatica.com.mx), operating out of offices in Cancún, offers guests a little adventure tourism in the jungle, with 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) of zip lines strung up in the forest canopy. There are also tours involving mountain biking and swimming in cenotes. They pick up from hotels in the lower Riviera Maya on Tuesdays and Thursdays and from Playa and surrounding area almost every day of the week for the morning tours. The $75 (£41) cost includes transportation, activities, a light lunch, locker, and all equipment. Buy tickets and get more information at any travel agency in Playa. Another interesting option is an ecological tour of the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. To do this, however, you have to get to Tulum. See the Tulum section in this guide.
The Nature Parks: Xcaret & Xel-Ha -- These parks make full-day excursions, offering opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and other seaside activities, and educational tours about the region's natural history and local Maya culture and entertainment. They are completely self-contained and offer food, drink, watersports equipment, and various kinds of merchandise. Xcaret is just south of Playa, while Xel-Ha is farther south, almost to Tulum.
Cozumel is a half-hour away by ferry; in my opinion, it makes for a poor day trip unless you simply want to shop. You'll see exactly what the cruise-ship passengers see -- lots of duty-free, souvenir, and jewelry stores. To enjoy Cozumel best, you have to spend at least a couple of nights there to explore the island.
Between Playa and Puerto Morelos
The coast north of Playa del Carmen holds several roadside attractions, all-inclusive hotels, small cabaña hotels, spa resorts, and a new golf development that looks super expensive. The distance between Puerto Morelos and Playa is only about 30km (20 miles).
Roadside Attractions -- Near the Puerto Morelos turnoff is Rancho Loma Bonita, which has all the markings of a tourist trap and offers horseback riding and ATV tours. For this sort of activity, I prefer Rancho Punta Venado, just south of Playa. You'll also come across Jardín Botánico Dr. Alfredo Barrera (no phone). Opened in 1990 and named after a biologist who studied tropical forests, the botanical garden is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm. Admission is $7 (£3.85). This place is disappointing because it's not being maintained well. It will be of most interest to gardeners and plant enthusiasts, but I'm afraid it will bore children. They are much more likely to enjoy the interactive zoo, CrocoCun (tel. 998/850-3719). It's a zoological park a mile north of Puerto Morelos. It raises crocodiles from eggs and keeps several species of animals native to the Yucatán Peninsula. A visit to the reptile house is fascinating, though it may make you think twice about venturing into the jungle. The rattlesnakes and boa constrictors are particularly intimidating, and the tarantulas are downright enormous. The guided tour lasts 1 1/2 hours. Children enjoy the guides' enthusiasm and are entranced by the spider monkeys and wild pigs. Wear plenty of bug repellent. There's a restaurant on-site. CrocoCun is open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm. As with other attractions along this coast, entrance fees are high: $18 (£9.90) adults, $12 (£6.60) children 6 to 12, free for children younger than 6.
