Active Pursuits

The ocean here is a gorgeous royal blue, and beautiful beaches stretch out along the coast on either side of town. Be careful, though: The waves can occasionally be too rough for casual swimming, and you need to be aware of stray rocks at your feet. Be sure you know where the rocks and tide are before doing any bodysurfing. The best places to swim are a couple hundred meters north of town in front of El Rincón de los Monos, or several kilometers farther north at Playa Grande.

If you're interested in more than simple beach time, head for the Montezuma waterfall just south of town -- it's one of those tropical fantasies where water comes pouring down into a deep pool. It's a popular spot, and it's a bit of a hike up the stream. There are actually a couple of waterfalls up this stream, but the upper falls are by far the more spectacular. You'll find the trail to the falls just over the bridge south of the village (on your right just past Las Cascadas restaurant). At the first major outcropping of rocks, the trail disappears and you have to scramble up the rocks and river for a bit. A trail occasionally reappears for short stretches. Just stick close to the stream and you'll eventually hit the falls.

Note: Be very careful when climbing close to the rushing water, and also if you plan on taking any dives into the pools below. The rocks are quite slippery, and several people each year get very scraped up, break bones, and otherwise hurt themselves here.

Another popular local waterfall is El Chorro, located 8km (5 miles) north of Montezuma. This waterfall cascades down into a tide pool at the edge of the ocean. The pool here is a delightful mix of fresh- and seawater, and you can bathe while gazing out over the sea and rocky coastline. When the water is clear and calm, this is one of my favorite swimming holes in all of Costa Rica. However, a massive landslide in 2004 filled in much of this pool and also somewhat lessened the drama and beauty of the falls. Moreover, the pool here is dependent upon the tides -- it disappears entirely at very high tide. It's about a 2-hour hike along the beach to reach El Chorro. Alternatively you can take a horseback tour here .

On The Wing -- For an intimate look at the life cycle and acrobatic flights-of-fancy of butterflies, head to the new Mariposario Montezuma Gardens (tel. 8888-4200). This is perhaps the most wild and natural feeling of all the butterfly gardens in Costa Rica. Wooden walkways wind through thick vegetation under black screen meshing. Most of the butterflies in the enclosure are self-reproducing, and there are trails through open forested areas outside the enclosure, where you can also see butterflies and other wildlife. Located along the dirt road heading up hill just beyond the entrance to the waterfall trail, this place is open daily from 8am to 4pm. Admission is $8 (£4), and includes a guided tour. These folks also have a few pretty rooms they rent out, or give to volunteers in exchange for work around the gardens.

Horseback Riding -- Several people around the village will rent you horses for around $8 to $12 (£4-£6) an hour, although most people choose to do a guided 4-hour horseback tour for $30 to $40 (£15-£20). Any of the hotels or tour agencies in town can arrange it for you, or you can look for "Roger, the horse guy" -- any local can direct you to him. However, you'll find the best-cared-for and best-kept horses at Finca Los Caballos (tel. 2642-0124), which is up the hill on the road leading into Montezuma.

Other Activities -- There are some shops in the center of the village where you can rent a bicycle by the day or hour, as well as boogie boards and snorkeling equipment (although the water must be very calm for snorkeling).

A range of guided tour and adventure options is available in Montezuma. CocoZuma Traveller (tel. 2642-0911; www.cocozuma.com) and Montezuma Travel Adventures (tel. 2642-0808; www.montezumatraveladventures.com) can both arrange horseback riding, boat excursions, scuba-dive and snorkel tours, ATV outings, and rafting trips; car and motorcycle rentals; airport transfers; international phone, fax, and Internet service; and currency exchange.

One popular tour option here is the Waterfall Canopy Tour (tel. 8823-6111 or 2642-0808), which is built right alongside Montezuma's famous falls. The tour, which features 9 cables connecting 11 platforms, includes a swim at the foot of the falls and costs $40 (£20) per person.

There are plenty of simple souvenir stores, as well as itinerant artisans selling their wares on the street, but it's worth stopping in at Piedra Colorado (tel. 8841-5855) to check out their impressive silver, stone, and polished-shell creations. This place is located in the tiny strip mall in the center of Montezuma.

Buy the Book . . . or Just Borrow It

If you came unprepared or ran out of reading material, check in at Librería Topsy (tel. 2642-0576), which, in addition to selling books, runs a lending library and serves as the local post office. These folks have also opened a branch up in Cabuya.