Attractions

In recent decades, the city of Pompeii was very depressed -- run-down by cheap sprawl, slums, and the resultant petty crime. The town has experienced successful urban renewal, however, and visitors now can enjoy its other attractions. The Santuario della Madonna del Rosario, Piazza Bartolo Longo 1 (tel. 081-8577111; www.santuario.it; Mon-Sat 6:15am-7:30pm; Sun and holidays 5:45am-8:30pm), is one of Italy's major religious centers dedicated to the Madonna, and a pilgrimage destination for Catholics worldwide. Built in the 19th century, the richly decorated sanctuary is well worth a visit. The attached buildings house a school and the offices of a number of important charities.

The archaeological area is, of course, the main attraction in Pompeii. Come prepared as the site is huge and a visit here is quite demanding in both time and energy. Bring comfortable shoes, a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water. We also recommend taking a guided tour or, at least, purchasing the official guidebook, complete with itineraries and photographs, for sale at the bookstore located just beyond the ticket booth. Guidebooks are available in various languages, including English. The Ufficio Scavi (tel. 081-8575347; www.pompeiisites.org) offers thematic guided tours that are fascinating; they each focus on one aspect of the town's life, and some of them are seasonal -- such as the Vendemmia (Grape Harvest), where you can visit the vineyards that produce an excellent red wine (the Villa dei Misteri label), using the techniques of 2,000 years ago. You can reserve these and other guided tours at tel. 081-8616405, or online at www.arethusa.net.

The archaeological area of Pompeii is a participant in the Artecard program.

Treading Lightly on Mt. Vesuvius

Stand at the bottom of the great market-place of Pompeii, and look up at the silent streets . . . over the broken houses with their inmost sanctuaries open to the day, away to Mount Vesuvius, bright and snowy in the peaceful distance; and lose all count of time, and heed of other things, in the strange and melancholy sensation of seeing the Destroyed and the Destroyer making this quiet picture in the sun.

-- Charles Dickens, Pictures from Italy

A volcano that has struck terror in Campania, the towering, pitch-black Mt. Vesuvius looms menacingly over the Bay of Naples. August 24, A.D. 79, is the infamous date when Vesuvius burst forth and buried Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiae under ash and volcanic mud. Vesuvius has erupted periodically ever since (thousands were killed in 1631): The last major spouting of lava occurred in the 20th century (it blew off the ring of its crater in 1906). The last spectacular eruption was on March 31, 1944. The approach to Vesuvius is dramatic, with the terrain growing foreboding as you near the top. Along the way you'll see villas rising on its slopes, and vineyards -- the grapes produce an amber-colored wine known as Lacrimae Christi (Tears of Christ); the citizens of ancient Pompeii enjoyed wine from here, as excavations have revealed. Closer to the summit, the soil becomes puce-colored and an occasional wildflower appears.

It might sound like a dubious invitation (Vesuvius, after all, is an active volcano), but it's possible to visit the rim of the crater's mouth. As you look down into its smoldering core, you might recall that Spartacus, a century before the eruption that buried Pompeii, hid in the hollow of the crater, which was then covered with vines.

The Parco Nazionale del Vusuvio contains an Observatory (tel. 081-6108483) at 608m (1,994 ft.). It's the oldest in the world, dating from 1841. Charging 4.50€ ($5.85/£3) for admission, the park is open daily from 9am until sunset.

To reach Vesuvius from Naples, take the Circumvesuviana Railway or (summer only) bus service from Piazza Vittoria, which hooks up with bus connections at Pugliano. You get off the train at the Ercolano station, the 10th stop. Some bus or van will generally be on hand to take you from Herculaneum to the top. Negotiate the price before getting in, however. Once at the top, you must be accompanied by a guide, which will cost 6€ ($7.80/£4). Assorted willing tour guides are found in the bus parking lot; they are available from 9am to about 4pm. For details, contact Guide Vulcanologiche (tel. 081-7775720).