Attractions

In recent decades, the city of Pompei was very depressed -- run-down by cheap sprawl, slums, and the resultant petty crime. The town has experienced successful urban renewal, however, and visitors now can enjoy its other attractions. The Santuario della Madonna del Rosario, Piazza Bartolo Longo 1 (tel. 081-8577111; www.santuario.it; Mon-Sat 6:15am-7:30pm; Sun and holidays 5:45am-8:30pm), is one of Italy's major religious centers dedicated to the Madonna, and a pilgrimage destination for Catholics worldwide. Built in the 19th century, the richly decorated sanctuary is well worth a visit. The attached buildings house a school and the offices of a number of important charities.

The archaeological area is, of course, the main attraction in Pompei. Come prepared, as the site is huge and a visit here is quite demanding in both time and energy. Bring comfortable shoes, a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water. We also recommend taking a guided tour or, at least, purchasing the official guidebook, complete with itineraries and photographs, for sale at the bookstore located just beyond the ticket booth. Guidebooks are available in various languages, including English. The Ufficio Scavi (tel. 081-8575347; www.pompeiisites.org) sometimes offers thematic guided tours that are fascinating: Each focuses on one aspect of the town's life. Some are seasonal, as the Vendemmia (Grape Harvest), where you can visit the vineyards that produce an excellent red wine (the Villa dei Misteri label) using 2,000-year-old techniques. You can reserve these as well as guided tours of specific buildings and houses at tel. 081-8616405, or online at www.arethusa.net.

Antiquity Online -- You can now purchase admission tickets to all the archaeological sites online at www.pompei.napoli.com (via a third party called Lauro). The procedure is simple: You pay by credit card and then print your tickets. Note: You need to be certain of the date of your visit: The tickets sold online are valid only for the date you choose and are nonrefundable.