The fishers unload their boats by tossing up wicker baskets full of freshly caught fish Monday through Saturday between 9:30 and 10:30am. Fish, fruit, and vegetable markets are held every morning (except Sun) until 2pm in the market building and open square. On the first Monday of every month, a gigantic daylong regional market sells local artifacts, pottery, wicker, and even snake oil. Boutiques offering the Algarve's best selection of sweaters, porcelain, and pottery abound.
You'll find modern, Pan-European commercialism in this once-sleepy fishing village -- most noticeably on such busy shopping streets as Rua Comerciale and Rua Vasco da Gama. Goods include hand-knit sweaters, hand-painted porcelains, and tons of pottery from factories and individual artisans throughout Portugal. Some of the best of it is available from two connected stores, Aquarius I and II (Rua Vasco da Gama 42 and 46; tel. 28/242-66-73). Look for knitwear, ceramics, pottery, leatherwear, and woodcarvings. Gaby's, Rua Direita 5 (tel. 28/241-19-88), specializes in linens, cottons, sheets, and bedspreads.