Why do you think everyone loves Portland so much? Of course it’s the city itself, but it’s also because of what’s just outside the city. Some of the most beautifully diverse landscapes in the country (okay, let’s say the world) can be visited and enjoyed on day trips from Portland. Below, I’ve provided a handful of options that range from the dramatic splendor of Mount Hood and the Columbia River Gorge to the rural, rolling hills of the wine country. You could also make a day trip to the Oregon coast. Astoria, Seaside, Cannon Beach, Lincoln City, and the Three Capes Scenic Loop—all described in chapter 6—are excellent day trip possibilities.
The Wine Country
Newberg: 25 miles SW of Portland; Dundee: 27 miles SW of Portland; McMinnville: 38 miles SW of Portland
The Wine CountryOregon is famous for its pinot noirs, but these exceptional wines are produced in such small quantities that they usually can’t be found outside the region. They are part and parcel of Portland’s palate and available at every good restaurant and wine store—even supermarkets. If you want to sample a few of Oregon’s exemplary wines and enjoy some scenic countryside at the same time, spend an afternoon or weekend visiting the wineries in what Portlanders simply call the “wine country.”
Wine is grown in more than one area of Oregon, but the part of the wine country closest to Portland is in the North Willamette Valley, which begins in the town of Newberg and extends south to McMinnville along Ore. 99W. Throughout this region you’ll find good restaurants and inns, so you’ll never be too far between wining and dining or sipping and sleeping.
Getting There: You’ll find the heart of wine country between Newberg and McMinnville, along Ore. 99W, which heads southwest from Portland.
The Willamette Valley Visitors Association (www.oregonwinecountry.org; tel. 866/548-5018) is a good source of information on this area. For more about the Oregon wine scene, including a calendar of winery events, pick up a copy of Oregon Wine Press (www.oregonwinepress.com),a monthly magazine available at area wine shops and wineries. The Willamette Valley Wineries Association (www.willamettewines.com; tel. 503/646-2985) publishes a free map and guide to the local wineries. You can pick up a copy at almost any area winery.
The most prestigious festival of the year, and certainly the most expensive ($900 a ticket) is the International Pinot Noir Celebration, in McMinnville (www.ipnc.org; tel. 800/775-4762 or 503/472-8964), held every year on the last weekend in July or first weekend in August. The 3-day event includes tastings, food, music, and seminars. This high-end event is for wine and food connoisseurs and snobs and has to be reserved far in advance. It’s better to simply make your own tour of the vineyards.
Touring the Wineries
Forget pretentiousness, grand villas, celebrity wineries, and snobbish waiters—this is not Napa Valley. Oregon wineries for the most part are still small establishments. Although in recent years more and more well-capitalized wineries have been opening with the sole purpose of producing high-priced pinot noir, many of the region’s wineries are still family-owned and -operated and produce moderately priced wines.
Stick to the pinots
For the most part, you can forget about cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and zinfandel while you’re here. The Willamette Valley just isn’t hot enough to produce these varietals. With the exception of southern Oregon wineries and a few Willamette Valley wineries that buy their grapes from warmer regions, Oregon wineries have, thankfully, given up on trying to produce cabs and zins. The wines of the Willamette Valley are primarily the cooler-climate varietals traditionally produced in Burgundy, Alsace, and Germany. Pinot noir is the uncontested leader of the pack, with pinot gris running a close second. gewürztraminer and Riesling are also produced, and with the introduction of early ripening Dijon-clone chardonnay grapes, the region is finally beginning to produce chardonnays that can almost compete with those of California. A handful of wineries also make sparkling wines, which are often made from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.
Wine country begins only a few miles west and southwest of Portland. Approaching the town of Newberg on Ore. 99W, you leave the urban sprawl behind and enter the rolling farm country of Yamhill County. These hills form the northern edge of the Willamette Valley and provide almost ideal conditions for growing wine grapes. The views from these hills take in the Willamette Valley’s fertile farmlands as well as the snowcapped peaks of the Cascades.
For anyone simply interested in tasting a little Oregon wine, the wineries along Ore. 99W are a good introduction. Those with more than a passing interest will want to explore the wineries that are located up in the hills a few miles off the highway.
At most wineries, you’ll be asked to pay a tasting fee, usually $5—this fee is often waived if you buy some wine. In the past few years, as pinot noir prices have risen into the $40 to $60 range, tasting room fees have also been creeping up. At some of the more prestigious wineries, you may have to pay a tasting fee between $10 and $20.
The Best Wineries
This winery has been around since the 1970s and consistently produces well-regarded pinots. The single-vineyard wines here are the standouts. You can call ahead to arrange a tour ($40–$150).
16800 NE Calkins Ln, Newberg. www.adelsheim.com. tel. 503/538-3652. Tasting fee $15. Daily 11am–4pm.
The wines at Alexana are made by Lynn Penner-Ash, one of Oregon’s top winemakers (her own winery is just a short drive away), and they are every bit as good as the wines from her own label. Pinot noirs include an estate bottling and a vintage from Shea, considered one of the best vineyards in the state.
12001 NE Worden Hill Rd., Newberg. www.alexanawinery.com. tel. 503/537-3100. Tasting fee $15. Daily 11am–5pm.
With big wines, a big winery, and a big reputation, Archery Summit is one of Oregon’s premier producers of pinot noir. Only pinot noir is produced, and the grapes all come from Archery Summit’s own vineyards. Wines are aged almost exclusively in new-oak barrels and spend time in some of the only barrel-aging caves in the state.
18599 NE Archery Summit Rd., Dayton. www.archerysummit.com. tel. 503/864-4300.Tasting fee $15–$45. Daily 10am–4pm. West of Dundee on Ore. 99W; turn right on Archery Summit Rd.
Located right on the highway in Dundee, this winery is best known for its sparkling wines and chardonnay, but also produces pinot noir. Due to traffic congestion in Dundee, this winery is best visited when heading east on Ore. 99W.
691 Ore. 99W, Dundee. www.argylewinery.com. tel. 888/427-4953 or 503/538-8520. Tasting fee $10–$22. Daily 11am–5pm.
Bethel Heights Vineyard
Set high on a hill and surrounded by more than 50 acres of grapes, Bethel Heights primarily produces chardonnays and fabulous pinot noirs.
6060 Bethel Heights Rd. NW, Salem. www.bethelheights.com. tel. 503/581-2262. Tasting fee $5. Feb–Nov Tues–Sun 11am–5pm; Dec Sat–Sun 11am–5pm; Jan by appointment. From Ore. 221 in Lincoln, take Zena Rd. west and turn right on Bethel Heights Rd.
At this tasting room, on the eastern edge of downtown Newberg, you can sample the wines of one of Oregon’s most respected wineries. Reliable pinot noirs can be found here, as can good chardonnay, pinot gris, and pinot blanc (a less common white wine). You’ll also find Riesling and Grüner Veltliner here. Tours of the nearby winery are offered Wednesday through Saturday at 11am ($25); reservations are required.
106 S. Center St., Newberg. www.chehalemwines.com. tel. 503/538-4700. Tasting fee $15, tours $25. Daily 11am–5pm.
Domaine Drouhin Oregon
Years ago, when France first heard that Oregon wineries were making pinot noir, most French winemakers scoffed. Not Maison Joseph Drouhin of Burgundy; the family bought land in the Red Hills of Dundee and planted vines. Today the Burgundian-style wines of Domaine Drouhin Oregon are superb examples of old-world winemaking—silky, seductive, and well balanced. Tours of the winery ($25) are available by reservation.
6750 Breyman Orchards Rd., Dayton. www.domainedrouhin.com. tel. 503/864-2700. Tasting fee $10, tours $25. July–harvest (Oct) daily 11am–4pm; other months Wed–Sun 11am–4pm. West of Dundee on Ore. 99W; turn right on McDougall Rd. and right again onto Breyman Orchards Rd.
Located across the road from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, this is another of Oregon’s top wineries, with an impressive winemaking facility and the impressive prices ($42–$75) to prove it. Great ratings from Wine Spectator have made these wines some of the most sought after in the state. Pinot noir, chardonnay, and Syrah are produced here.
6555 NE Hilltop Lane, Dayton. www.domaineserene.com. tel. 866/864-6555or 503/864-4600. Tasting fee $15–$60. Wed–Mon 11am–4pm. West of Dundee on Ore. 99W; turn right on McDougall Rd. and right again onto Breyman Orchards Rd.
The Eyrie Vineyards
This winery is the oldest producer of pinot noir in Oregon and was responsible for putting Oregon on the international wine map in 1979 and 1980, when its 1975 pinot noir won major competitions in France. Eyrie was also the first vineyard in America to produce pinot gris, which has since become one of Oregon’s top white wines.
935 NE 10th Ave., McMinnville. www.eyrievineyards.com. tel. 888/440-4970 or 503/472-6315. Tasting fee $5. Wed–Sun noon–5pm.
Penner-Ash Wine Cellars
Winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash has been on the Oregon wine scene for years, and her winery between Newberg and Yamhill is one of the more impressive facilities in the area. Set high on a hill with a stupendous view, it would be worth a visit even if Penner-Ash didn’t produce such excellent wines. The pinot noirs and Syrahs here are out of this world. Tours are offered on Saturday and Sunday at 10am.
15771 NE Ribbon Ridge Rd., Newberg. www.pennerash.com. tel. 503/554-5545. Tasting fee $10–$15. Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. From Ore. 240 between Newberg and Yamhill, drive north on NE Ribbon Ridge Rd.
Rex Hill Vineyards
Set amid mature vineyards on the outskirts of Newberg, Rex Hill is a good first stop in wine country. One of the oldest wineries in Oregon, Rex Hill focuses on higher end pinot noir, which can be outstanding. Also look for good chardonnay and pinot gris for less than $20.
30835 N. Ore. 99W, Newberg. www.rexhill.com. tel. 800/739-4455. Tasting fee $10. Daily 10am–5pm.
Sokol Blosser Winery
Sokol Blosser sits high on the slopes above the west end of Dundee. Off-dry whites are a strong point here, and the Evolution, a blend of nine different grapes, shouldn’t be missed. A walk-through a showcase vineyard provides an opportunity to learn about the growing process, and tours of the winery ($20) are given on Saturday and Sunday by reservation.
5000 Sokol Blosser Ln., Dundee. www.sokolblosser.com. tel. 800/582-6668 or 503/864-2282. Tasting fee $5–$15. Daily 10am–4pm. Southwest of Dundee off Ore. 99W.
Stoller Vineyards This large, LEED-certified winery produces not only good chardonnay and pinot noir; with an array of photovoltaic panels on the roof, it also produces electricity. The owners are also co-owners of Chehalem winery, one of the most highly respected wineries in the state. Stoller has a cottage and farmhouse available for rent, with a 2-night minimum.
16161 NE McDougall Rd., Dayton. www.stollervineyards.com. tel. 503/864-3404. Tasting fee $10–$15. Daily 11am–5pm. Southwest of Dundee off Ore. 99W.
Few Willamette Valley wineries produce Riesling, but it’s one of the specialties at Trisaetum. In any given vintage, the winery will produce several styles, from dry to sweet. Excellent pinot noir is also produced. Try to get a look at the winery’s impressive barrel caves.
18401 Ribbon Ridge Rd., Newberg. www.trisaetum.com. tel. 503/538-9898. Tasting fee $10. Wed–Mon 11am–4pm.
Mount HoodGovernment Camp: 56 miles E of Portland; Timberline Lodge: 60 miles E of Portland
Regal, snow-capped Mount Hood is Portland’s mascot, or icon, visible from the city on clear days and an integral part of Portlanders’ consciousness. At 11,235 feet, this dormant volcano in the Cascade Range is the tallest mountain in Oregon—and also the busiest, since it’s a renowned winter ski destination and a year-round outdoor playground within an easy day trip of Portland.
The mountain is just one feature—albeit the most spectacular one—of the 1.1 million-acre Mount Hood National Forest. Within the forest are some 95 campgrounds and 50 lakes stocked with rainbow, cutthroat, steelhead, and brown trout. The scenic, free-flowing rivers (the Sandy and the Salmon being the most prominent) are known for their fishing, rafting, swimming, and tubing. Both forest and mountain are crisscrossed by an extensive trail system for hikers, cyclists, and horseback riders.
All of this is almost literally in Portland’s front yard, about 60 miles east of downtown. A day trip to Timberline Lodge serves as a remarkable introduction to the grandeur that is Oregon.
From Portland, drive east on I-84 to exit 16 (Wood Village) and continue east on U.S. 26 to Government Camp; from there, a well-marked road leads to Timberline Lodge.
For more information on Mount Hood, contact the Hood River Ranger Station, 6780 Ore. 35, Parkdale, OR 97041 (www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood; tel. 541/352-6002), which has maps and provides information on permits and road conditions. Online you can also check out www.mthood.info. The commercial site Mount Hood Territory (www.mthoodterritory.com) is also packed with useful information, including tips on traveling around the mountain.
Hitting the slopes
There are five downhill ski areas on Mount Hood, though two of these are tiny operations that attract primarily beginners and families. There are also many miles of marked cross-country ski trails. Although opening and closing dates have been readjusted in recent years because of unpredictable weather, the ski season on Mount Hood typically begins around Thanksgiving and runs through March or April. There is also summer snowboarding on the Palmer Snowfield at Timberline Ski Area. The single most important thing to know about skiing anywhere in Oregon is that you’ll have to have a Sno-Park permit ($4/day), which allows you to park in plowed parking areas on the mountain. Permits are available at ski shops and at convenience stores. To visit Mount Hood in the winter, check the website for the Hood River Ranger Station (www.fs.usda.gov/mthood) for current weather conditions; you may need snow tires or chains.
Mount Hood Meadows (www.skihood.com; tel. 503/337-2222 or 503/227-7669 for snow report), 12 miles northeast of Government Camp on Ore. 35, is the largest ski resort on Mount Hood, with more than 2,000 skiable acres, 2,777 vertical feet of slopes, five high-speed quad lifts, and a wide variety of terrain. This is the closest Mount Hood comes to having a destination ski resort.
Timberline Ski Area (www.timberlinelodge.com; tel. 503/272-3158 or 503/222-2211 for snow report) is the highest ski area on Mount Hood and has one slope that is open throughout the summer, though it can be slushy and attracts snowboarders and not downhill skiers. Mount Hood Meadows is better for general skiing during the winter season, but this is the site of historic Timberline Lodge.
If you’re interested in cross-country skiing, head to Mount Hood Meadows Nordic Center on Ore. 35 ort Teacup Lake , across the highway from the turnoff for Mount Hood Meadows. Teacup Lake is maintained by a local ski club (www.teacupnordic.org) and has the best system of groomed trails on the mountain.
Exploring Around Timberline LodgeBesides having a fabulous view of Mount Hood and the surrounding Cascades, and great skiing Timberline Lodge is surrounded by wildflower meadows that burst into bloom in July and August. (Hikers should stay on the trails, because this environment above the timberline is a very fragile ecosystem.) In summer you can ride the lift up to the Palmer Snowfield behind the lodge, even if you aren’t skiing. The Magic Mile Skyride, which operates daily from 11am to 2pm (until 3pm Friday through Sunday), costs $15 for adults and $9 for seniors and children 7 to 14. By the way, don’t forget to bring a jacket or sweater, even if it’s August.
Stretching from the Sandy River in the west to the Deschutes River in the east, the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area is one of the most breathtakingly dramatic landscapes in the United States. Carved out over countless eons by enormous glaciers and floods of unimaginable power, this miles-wide canyon with its mile-high basalt cliffs is flanked on its north (Washington) side by Mount Adams and on its south (Oregon) side by Mount Hood, two Cascade peaks that rise more than 11,000 feet. With a string of dramatic waterfalls, including iconic Multnomah Falls (Oregon’s highest and most famous waterfall), and forests of Douglas fir rising up from the banks of the Columbia River, the Gorge is a year-round recreational area. Hiking trails lead to hidden waterfalls and cliff-top panoramas while windsurfers race across wind-whipped waters at Hood River, the windsurfing capital of the United States. You can explore and enjoy this unforgettable stretch of the Columbia Gorge on an easy day trip from Portland.
I-84 and the Historic Columbia River Highway both pass through the Gorge on the Oregon side of the Columbia River. The most scenic route utilizes both highways and is described in the driving tour below.
For information on the Gorge, contact the Columbia River Gorge Visitor’s Association, P.O. Box 324, Corbett, OR 97019 (www.crgva.org; tel. 800/984-6743), or the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, 902 Wasco St., Ste. 200, Hood River, OR 97031 (www.fs.usda.gov/crgnsa; tel. 541/308-1700). The Multnomah Falls Forest Service Visitor Center (tel. 503/695-2372) at Multnomah Falls Lodge has maps of hiking trails and is a great source of information on attractions in the Gorge.
Scenic Driving Tour
Though I-84 is the fastest road through the Columbia Gorge, the Gorge is best appreciated at a more leisurely pace on the Historic Columbia River Highway , which begins 16 miles east of downtown Portland at the second Troutdale exit off I-84. Opened in 1915, this winding, two-lane highway was a marvel of engineering at the time and opened the Gorge to tourism.
Your first unforgettable view of the Gorge comes at the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint at Crown Point, which provides a 30-mile vista that is nothing short of spectacular. Topping Crown Point is historic Vista House, 40700 E. Historic Columbia River Hwy. (www.vistahouse.com; tel. 503/695-2240), an octagonal stone structure perched 733-ft. above the river. It was originally built as a way station for travelers along the scenic highway back in 1918. Step into this lovely building to have a look at its architecture and exhibits that tell the story of the construction of the historic highway and the geology of the Gorge. There’s also a coffee shop and a gift shop. Vista House is open 10am to 4pm from March through October, but Crown Point is open year-round, weather permitting.
From Crown Point, the historic highway drops down into the Gorge and passes several beautiful waterfalls. The first of these is 249-foot Latourell Falls , a diaphanous wisp of water that cascades over basalt cliffs stained lime-green by lichen. A 2.3-mile loop trail leads from this waterfall up to the smaller Upper Latourell Falls. Continuing east, you’ll come to Shepherd’s Dell Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, Mist Falls, and Wahkeena Falls, all of which are either right beside the historic highway or a short walk away.
At 620 feet from the lip to the lower pool, Multnomah Falls is the tallest waterfall in Oregon and the fourth tallest in the United States. In addition to being the tallest, it’s also the most famous waterfall along the historic highway, and the state’s most visited natural attraction (in other words, expect crowds). A steep trail leads up to the top of the falls; partway up there’s a picturesque arched bridge directly in front of the falls.
The historic Multnomah Falls Lodge has a restaurant, snack bar, and gift shop, as well as a National Forest Visitor Center with information on the geology, history, and natural history of the Gorge.
Bonneville Dam & Eagle CreekJust after the historic highway merges with I-84 is exit 40, the exit for Bonneville Lock and Dam (tel. 541/374-8820). The visitor center here has exhibits on the history of this dam, built in 1938. One of the most important features here is the fish ladder, which allows adult salmon to return upriver to spawn. Underwater windows let visitors watch the fish as they pass through the ladder (note that salmon runs have been greatly diminished—because of this dam, in part). To see how trout, salmon, and steelhead are raised before being released into the river, visit the adjacent Bonneville Fish Hatchery, 70543 NE Herman Loop (www.dfw.state.or.us; tel. 541/374-8393). A Sturgeon Viewing Center allows you to marvel at several immense sturgeons through an underwater window. At this same exit off I-84 (and at Eagle Creek), you’ll find access to a section of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail, a paved multiuse trail that connects the town of Cascade Locks with Bonneville Dam. This trail incorporates abandoned sections of the Historic Columbia River Highway and is open to hikers and bikers. Near the western trail head, you’ll also find the trail to Wahclella Falls , a little-visited yet very picturesque waterfall tucked back in a side canyon. The trail to the falls is less than a mile long and relatively flat.
Beyond Bonneville Dam is Eagle Creek, the single best spot in the Gorge for a hike. The Eagle Creek Trail leads past several waterfalls; if you have time for only one hike in the Gorge, it should be this one.
Not far beyond Eagle Creek is Bridge of the Gods, a steel suspension bridge that connects Oregon and Washington at the site where, according to a Native American legend, a natural bridge used by the gods once stood. Geologists now believe that the legend is based in fact; there is evidence that a massive rock slide may have once blocked the river at this point.
Just beyond Bridge of the Gods, you’ll come to Cascade Locks. It was at this site that cascades once turned the Columbia River into a raging torrent that required boats to be portaged a short distance downriver. Built in 1896, the Cascade Locks allowed steamships to pass unhindered and made traveling between The Dalles and Portland much easier. With the construction of the Bonneville Lock and Dam, the cascades were flooded, and the locks became superfluous.
The Cascade Locks Marine Park at 355 WaNaPa St. serves as the ticket office for the stern-wheeler Columbia Gorge (www.portlandspirit.com; tel. 800/224-3901 or 503/224-3900), which makes 1- and 2-hour sightseeing cruises and lunch, brunch, and dinner trips on the river (daily except Weds) from May through October. These cruises provide a great perspective on the Gorge. Fares for the 2-hour scenic cruises are $28 for adults and $18 for children. (I don’t recommend the more expensive meal cruises because the food is not particularly good.)
Located 62 miles east of Portland, and easily accessible from I-84, the town of Hood River is a good place to end your day trip in the Columbia Gorge before heading back to Portland. Long before windsurfing was invented and Hood River began to bill itself as the “Windsurfing Capital of the World,” this small Columbia Gorge town was primarily a lumber town and shipping depot for the apples, peaches, pears, cherries, and plums grown in the vast fruit orchards in Hood Valley. You can still drive into Hood Valley and buy sweet Bing and Rainier cherries and other fresh-picked fruit at farm stands along Ore. 35, but it’s the windsurfing on the Columbia River that draws recreational enthusiasts from around the globe.
The conditions for windsurfing are ideal at this juncture in the mighty river. Every summer, hot air rising over the desert to the east of the Cascade Range sucks cool air up the Columbia River Gorge from the Pacific, and the winds howl through what is basically a natural wind tunnel. They used to curse these winds in Hood River. Not anymore. Windsurfing and kiteboarding have given the town a new lease on life. Pull into the riverside park and watch the action as riders unfurl their sails and kites, zip up their wetsuits, and launch themselves into the melee of hundreds of other like-minded souls shooting back and forth across a mile of windswept water. Aerial acrobatics like flips and 360-degree turns are common sights.
Many of the town’s old Victorian and Craftsman houses have now been restored, giving Hood River a historic atmosphere to complement its lively windsurfing scene.
For more information, contact the Hood River County Chamber of Commerce, 720 E. Port Marina Dr., Hood River, OR 97031 (www.hoodriver.org; tel. 800/366-3530 or 541/386-2000), located near the river at exit 63 off I-84.
Hood River sits at the juncture of I-84 and Ore. 35, which leads south to connect with U.S. 26 near the community of Government Camp.
Rooster Rock State ParkIf it’s a hot summer’s day and you’re returning to Portland via I-84, you may want to take a dip in the river at Rooster Rock State Park , with its long sandy beach, and, in a remote section of the park, a clothing-optional stretch. Whether you stop or not, you’ll easily spot this riverside monolith, which the explorers Lewis and Clark used as a landmark on their journey down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean in 1805. Rooster Rock State Park is 13 miles west of Multnomah Falls on I-84.
Gorge Tours: Because the Columbia River Gorge is so scenic, you might want to leave the driving to someone else so you can take it all in. If so, contact Martin’s Gorge Tours (www.martinsgorgetours.com; tel. 877/290-8687 or 503/349-1323).Various tours focus on waterfalls, wildflowers, or wine and cost $49 to $85 per person.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.