Restaurants

The Portland restaurant scene is hot, and it's not just because of all the wood ovens that have been brought in to new restaurants in the past couple of years. The city has recently developed a national reputation for having great restaurants. Driving this restaurant renaissance are lots of creative young chefs and their affinity for local produce and wines from Willamette Valley wineries. Bounteous ingredients can be sourced locally, including organic fruits and vegetables, hazelnuts and walnuts, wild mushrooms, even Oregon truffles. And, of course, pinot noir, pinot gris, pinot blanc. The list goes on and on. All I can say is, cheers!

The only catch to the Portland dining scene is that it is spread out, and some of the most talked-about restaurants are basically neighborhood spots in up-and-coming residential districts away from the city center. Even more inconvenient is that these great neighborhood restaurants often don't take reservations. For this reason, I'm still partial to the less hyped but more reliable restaurants downtown and in the Pearl District and the Nob Hill/Northwest neighborhoods. Call me old-fashioned, but I'm just not interested in waiting 3 hours for a table when I'm going to spend $60 or more on dinner.

Family-Friendly Restaurants

Bijou Cafe -- Parents who care about the food their children eat will want to bring the family to this cozy old-fashioned diner that serves great breakfasts made with organic ingredients.

Newport Seafood Grill -- A cheery atmosphere, straightforward meals, and a great location on the Willamette River make this a good family pick. Just be sure to hold the little ones' hands when you walk out on the floating dock that leads to this restaurant.

Old Wives' Tales -- This place has been keeping young, liberal-minded families contentedly dining out for 3 decades now. A dining room with an attached children's playroom assures mom and dad of an enjoyable evening out.

Breakfast: The Most Important Meal of the Day

I have to admit, I'm not a fan of going out for long, sit-down breakfasts. At home I always start my day with a big breakfast, but when I'm on vacation, just give me a cappuccino and a pastry and I'm perfectly content. I just don't want to sit around waiting for food first thing in the morning, especially when there's a new city to be explored. I have, however, found that I am in the minority. I regularly get letters from readers recommending breakfast places, and even my wife has tried to convince me of the folly of my ways.

If you happen to be a breakfast person and are desperately seeking sustenance in the AM, check out the following places.

Founded in Portland in 1953, The Original Pancake House, 8601 SW 24th Ave. (tel. 503/246-9007; www.originalpancakehouse.com), has lines out the door every weekend. Maybe you've got one of these places in your city (they're in 26 states), but this is the original Original Pancake House. Get the apple pancake or the Dutch baby.

Everett Street Bistro, 1140 NW Everett St. (tel. 503/467-4990; www.everettstreetbistro.com), serves such morning delights as Dutch baby pancakes, Grand Marnier French toast, and wild mushroom scrambles. It's easy to see why this place is packed for breakfast on weekends.

Isabel Pearl, 330 NW 10th Ave. (tel. 503/222-4333; www.isabelscantina.com), a glass-walled jewel-box of a restaurant in the Pearl District, serves big, creative breakfasts. Try the coconut French toast or pesto scramble.

Both Bijou Cafe and Daily Cafe also serve excellent breakfasts.

Cafes

If you're in search of Portland's cafe culture or just need a good cup of coffee, I recommend the following places:

With an upscale interior decor and a social conscience, World Cup, 1740 NW Glisan St. (tel. 503/228-4152; www.worldcupcoffee.com), in the Nob Hill neighborhood, is a coffee haven for the politically correct. There's another World Cup inside Powell's City of Books, 1005 W. Burnside St. (tel. 503/228-4651, ext. 1234),

Many a Portlander swears by the coffee at Stumptown Coffee Roasters, 128 SW Third Ave. (tel. 503/295-6144; www.stumptowncoffee.com), a big, trendy cafe with an art-school aesthetic. Whether you go for the French press or a double shot of espresso, you're sure to be satisfied. There's another Stumptown in the lobby of the Ace Hotel, 1026 SW Stark St. (tel. 503/224-9060). Over on the east side of the Willamette River are Stumptown's two original cafes: 4525 SE Division St. (tel. 503/230-7702) and 3356 SE Belmont St. (tel. 503/232-8889), which both tend to attract a young, hip clientele.

If you've been shopping your way through the Pearl District for hours and desperately need a place to sit down for a latte, head to Sip & Kranz, 901 NW 10th Ave. (tel. 503/336-1335; www.sipandkranz.com), the neighborhood's most stylish coffee lounge. Right outside the front door is the popular Jamison Square park, where all summer long, kids splash in the wading-pool fountain. Alternatively, there's Barista, 539 NW 13th Ave. (tel. 503/274-1211; www.baristapdx.com), which some people claim makes the best coffee in Portland. You can get vacuum-pot coffee here, and the baristas have even won awards for their espresso drinks.

Not a coffee drinker? Try the funky Tao of Tea, 3430 SE Belmont St. (tel. 503/736-0198; www.taooftea.com), which feels like it could be in some Kathmandu back alley and specializes in traditional Chinese tea service. There's a second tea room, called the Tower of Cosmic Reflections, inside the Lan Su Chinese Garden, 239 NW Everett St. (tel. 503/224-8455).

All you chocoholics out there will be relieved to know that Portland is a fabulous town for chocolate addicts. Whether you're looking for a handmade truffle, a fair-trade chocolate bar, or a cup of drinking chocolate, there's a chocolatier in town for you. If hot chocolate, not coffee, is your cup of choice, then be sure to stop by Moonstruck Chocolate Café, 608 SW Alder St. (tel. 503/241-0955; www.moonstruckchocolate.com), where you can choose from a wide variety of hot chocolate drinks. There's another Moonstruck in the Nob Hill neighborhood at 526 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/542-3400). Cacao, 414 SW 13th Ave. (tel. 503/241-0656; www.cacaodrinkchocolate.com), just off West Burnside Street, offers a variety of chocolate confections from some of the Northwest's most noteworthy purveyors. Alma Chocolate, 140 NE 28th Ave. (tel. 503/517-0262; www.almachocolate.com), uses fair-trade and organic ingredients in its chocolates. For hand-dipped truffles, head to Sahagún, 10 NW 16th Ave. (tel. 503/274-7065; www.sahagunchocolates.com). Even big European chocolatiers have shops here in town. From Belgium come the pralines, buttercreams, and ganaches of Leonidas, 607 SW Washington St. (tel. 503/224-9247; www.leonidasportland.com), and from Switzerland come the truffles of teuscher, 531 SW Broadway (tel. 503/827-0587; www.teuscherportland.com). From March through November, it's even possible to take a chocolate walking tour with Chocolate Tasting and More (www.chocolatetastingandmore.com), which offers its tours through the West Linn Parks & Recreation Department (tel. 503/557-4700; www.westlinnoregon.gov/parksrec). Tours are $42 per person.

Bakeries & Pastry Shops

Pearl Bakery, 102 NW Ninth Ave. (tel. 503/827-0910; www.pearlbakery.com), in the heart of the Pearl District, is famous in Portland for its breads and European-style pastries. The gibassier, a chewy sweet roll fragrant with anise and orange, is an absolute revelation. The gleaming bakery/cafe is also good for sandwiches, such as a roasted eggplant and tomato pesto on crusty bread.

Say the words "Papa Haydn" to a Portlander, and you'll see a blissful smile appear. What is it about this little bistro that makes locals start gushing superlatives? The desserts. The lemon chiffon torte, raspberry gâteau, black velvet, and tiramisu at Papa Haydn West, 701 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/228-7317; www.papahaydn.com), are legendary. There's another location at 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave. (tel. 503/232-9440) in the Westmoreland neighborhood.

Also in the Nob Hill neighborhood, you'll find Ken's Artisan Bakery, 338 NW 21st Ave. (tel. 503/248-2202; www.kensartisan.com). Ken's doesn't do a wide variety of pastries, but what it does do, it does very well. Yum! Try the fruit tarts. However, my current favorite bakery in the neighborhood is the utterly Gallic St. Honoré Boulangerie, 2335 NW Thurman St. (tel. 503/445-4342; www.sainthonorebakery.com); not only does this place turn out awesome pastries and breads, but also you can read Le Monde while eating your croissant.

Located in Ladd's Addition, an old neighborhood full of big trees and Craftsman-style bungalows, Palio Dessert & Espresso House, 1996 SE Ladd Ave. (tel. 503/232-9412; www.palio-in-ladds.com), is a very relaxed place with a timeless European quality. To get there, take Hawthorne Boulevard east to the corner of 12th and Hawthorne, and then go diagonally down Ladd Avenue.

The Rimsky-Korsakoffee House, 707 SE 12th Ave. (tel. 503/232-2640), a classic old-style coffeehouse, has been Portland's favorite dessert hangout for more than 25 years. Live classical music and great desserts keep patrons loyal. It's open from 7pm to midnight Sunday through Thursday and 7pm until 1am Friday and Saturday.

We've saved the best for last: Pix Patisserie, 3402 SE Division St. (tel. 503/232-4407; www.pixpatisserie.com), makes by far the most decadent pastries in Portland. Every sweet little jewel here is a work of art, and it can sometimes be a real challenge to desecrate these creations with a fork. Go ahead, take a bite -- you won't soon forget the experience. There's a second Pix at 3901 N. Williams Ave. (tel. 503/282-6539).

If doughnuts are your guilty pleasure of choice, then do not miss Portland's Voodoo Doughnut, 22 SW Third Ave. (tel. 503/241-4704; www.voodoodoughnut.com). Open 24 hours a day and boasting that "the magic is in the hole," this downtown nightlife-district hole in the wall is not your usual doughnut shop. There are voodoo-doll doughnuts, bacon-topped maple bars, vegan doughnuts, and even X-rated doughnuts. There's a second Voodoo Doughnut across the river at 1501 NE Davis St. (tel. 503/235-2666). This one is closed from 3am to 6am.

If it's hot out and nothing will do but something cold and creamy, check out one of Portland's gelaterias. These Italian-style frozen-dessert parlors have taken Portland by storm. In the Nob Hill neighborhood, there's Alotto Gelato, 931 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/228-1709; www.alottogelato.biz); in the Pearl District, there's Mio Gelato, 25 NW 11th Ave. (tel. 503/226-8002; www.mio-gelato.com); and in northeast Portland, just off East Burnside Street, there's Staccato Gelato, 232 NE 28th Ave. (tel. 503/231-7100; www.staccatogelato.com).

Quick Bites & Cheap Eats

If you're just looking for something quick, cheap, and good to eat, Portland abounds with great options around the city. Designer pizzas topped with anything from roasted eggplant to wild mushrooms to Thai peanut sauce can be had at Pizzicato Gourmet Pizza (www.pizzicatopizza.com). Find them downtown at 705 SW Alder St. (tel. 503/226-1007), in Northwest Portland at 505 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/242-0023), and in southeast Portland at 2811 E. Burnside St. (tel. 503/236-6045). However, if you find yourself near a Hot Lips Pizza (www.hotlipspizza.com), give it a try. They're located at SE Hawthorne Blvd. and SE 22nd Ave. (tel. 503/234-9999), in the EcoTrust building at NW 10th Ave. and NW Irving St. (tel. 503/595-2342), and SW Sixth Ave. at SW Hall St. (tel. 503/224-0311). For inexpensive sushi, stop by one of Portland's many outposts of Mio Sushi (www.miosushi.com). Locations include 2271 NW Johnson St. (tel. 503/221-1469), 3962 SE Hawthorne Blvd. (tel. 503/230-6981), and 4204 NE Halsey St. (tel. 503/288-4778). For fast organic and mostly vegetarian food, search out a Laughing Planet (www.laughingplanetcafe.com). You'll find them at 721 NW Ninth Ave. (tel. 503/505-5020); 922 NW 21st Ave. (tel. 503/445-1319), 3320 SE Belmont St. (tel. 503/235-6472), and 3765 N. Mississippi St. (tel. 503/467-4146).

Go Cart

As in most cities, restaurants in downtown Portland tend to be either cheap lunch spots for the cubical set or expense-account places for management. If your vacation budget falls closer to the former category, then you may want to eat "a la cart." In recent years, Portland has become famous for its many food carts. You'll find these carts and trailers in parking lots all over town, with concentrations at the corner of SW Stark Street and SW Fifth Avenue and the corners of SW Alder Street and both SW Ninth Avenue and SW Tenth Avenue. The following are some of my personal favorite carts. For cart-loads of information on Portland food carts, go to www.foodcartsportland.com.

I used to write about Amsterdam and Brussels for Frommer's guides, and in both cities, I lived on the exquisite fries. You can now get those great frites here in Portland at Potato Champion, SE 12th Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard (www.potatochampion.com), which stays open late and also serves poutine, the national dish of Quebec.

Waffle sandwiches. 'Nuff said? Try the sausage and maple at Flavour Spot, North Mississippi Avenue and North Fremont Street (tel. 503/282-9866; www.flavourspot.com). Yumm!

At Nong's Khao Man Gai, SW Alder Street between SW 10th and SW 11th avenues (tel. 971/255-3480; www.khaomangai.com), such simple ingredients -- a pile of rice, a heap of boiled chicken, a cup of broth with vegetables -- become the stuff of Portland legends. How? The sauce. It is heavenly. Order extra.

It's cold. It's rainy. It's time for hot soup, and Savor Soup House, SW Alder Street and SW 10th Avenue (tel. 503/750-5634; www.savorsouphouse.com), is the place to take the chill off. Pair your soup with a grilled cheese sandwich for the ultimate comfort meal. Now where did I leave my blanket?

In a city known for its great espresso, can it be true that the best espressos and cappuccinos are served out of a cart in a downtown parking lot? Don't leave town without doing your own taste test at Spella Café, SW Ninth Avenue and SW Alder Street (tel. 503/752-0428; www.spellacaffe.com).

What, more waffles? Waffle Window, SE 36th Avenue and SE Hawthorne Boulevard (tel. 503/239-4756; www.wafflewindow.com), isn't officially a cart, but it is a window in the side of a building, which sort of counts. Waffles with jam and panna cotta, waffles with bacon, brie, and basil. What's not to love?