Restaurants

The Portland restaurant scene is jumping and the city has developed a reputation to rival Seattle's when it comes to great restaurants. Several distinct dining districts are full of upscale spots, and though you aren't likely to choose to eat at one of these places on the spur of the moment (reservations are usually imperative), their proximity allows you to check out a few places before making a decision later.

The Pearl District's renovated warehouses currently house the trendiest restaurants, while Nob Hill's NW 21st Avenue boasts half a dozen terrific establishments within a few blocks. The Sellwood and Westmoreland neighborhoods of southeast Portland make up another of the city's hot restaurant districts, and for good inexpensive food, it's hard to beat the many offerings along NE Broadway in the Irvington neighborhood, and along North Mississippi Avenue in north Portland.

Dinner in Portland isn't complete without an Oregon wine; pinot noir and pinot gris in particular receive widespread acclaim. However, they can be more expensive than other domestic wines.

There's an outpost of Typhoon! at 410 SW Broadway (tel. 503/224-8285), in the Hotel Lucia.

Family-Friendly Restaurants

Bijou Cafe -- Parents who care about the food their children eat will want to bring the family to this cozy old-fashioned diner that serves great breakfasts made with organic ingredients.

Newport Bay Restaurant -- A cheery atmosphere, straightforward meals, and a great location on the Willamette River make this a good family pick.

Peanut Butter & Ellie's -- This place isn't just family friendly, it's designed exclusively for kids, and, of course, the various peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches are big hits with the little ones.

Cafes

If you'd like to sample some cafes around Portland that serve the full range of coffee drinks and that are atmospheric, we recommend the following:

With an upscale Starbucks-style interior decor, a social conscience, and a Pearl District location, World Cup, 721 NW Ninth Ave. (tel. 503/546-7377), is a coffee haven for the politically correct. It's even located in an unusual environmentally friendly "green" building that has a rooftop terrace. Other World Cups are located inside Powell's City of Books, 1005 W. Burnside St. (tel. 503/228-4651, ext. 234), and in the Nob Hill neighborhood at 1740 NW Glisan St. (tel. 503/228-4152).

Many a Portlander swears by the coffee at Stumptown Coffee Roasters, 128 SW Third Ave. (tel. 503/295-6144), a big, trendy cafe with an art-school aesthetic. Whether you go for the French press or a double shot of espresso, you're sure to be satisfied. Over on the east side of the Willamette River are Stumptown's two original cafes: 3377 SE Division St. (tel. 503/230-7797) and 3356 SE Belmont St. (tel. 503/232-8889), which both tend to attract a young, hip clientele.

If hot chocolate, not coffee, is your cup of choice, then be sure to stop by Moonstruck Chocolate Café, 608 SW Alder St. (tel. 503/241-0955), where you can chooses from a wide variety of hot chocolate drinks. There's another Moonstruck in the Nob Hill neighborhood at 526 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/542-3400).

Bakeries & Pastry Shops

Pearl Bakery, 102 NW Ninth Ave. (tel. 503/827-0910), in the heart of the Pearl District, is famous in Portland for its breads and European-style pastries. The gleaming bakery cafe is also good for sandwiches, such as a roasted eggplant and tomato pesto on crusty bread.

Say the words "Papa Haydn" to a Portlander, and you'll see a blissful smile appear. What is it about this little bistro that gets locals gushing superlatives? The desserts. The lemon chiffon torte, raspberry gâteau, black velvet, and tiramisu at Papa Haydn West, 701 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/228-7317), are legendary. There's another location at 5829 SE Milwaukie Ave. (tel. 503/232-9440) in Sellwood.

Also in the Nob Hill neighborhood, you'll find Ken's Artisan Bakery, 338 NW 21st Ave. (tel. 503/248-2202; www.kensartisan.com), which doesn't do a wide variety of pastries. But what it does do, it does very well. Yum! Try the fruit tarts. My current favorite bakery in the neighborhood is the utterly Gallic St. Honoré Boulangerie, 2335 NW Thurman St. (tel. 503/445-4342; www.sainthonorebakery.com); not only does this place turn out awesome pastries and breads, but you can read Le Monde, while eating your croissant.

Located in Ladd's Addition, an old neighborhood full of big trees and craftsman-style bungalows, Palio Dessert House, 1996 SE Ladd Ave. (tel. 503/232-9412), is a very relaxed place with a timeless European quality. To get there, take Hawthorne Boulevard east to the corner of 12th and Hawthorne, then go diagonally down Ladd Avenue.

The Rimsky-Korsakoffee House, 707 SE 12th Ave. (tel. 503/232-2640), a classic old-style coffeehouse (complete with mismatched chairs), has been Portland's favorite dessert hangout for more than a decade. Live classical music and great desserts keep patrons loyal. (The mocha fudge cake is small but deadly.) It's open from 7pm to midnight on Sunday through Thursday and until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays.

We've saved the best for last: Pix Patisserie, 3402 SE Division St. (tel. 503/232-4407), makes by far the most decadent pastries in Portland. Every sweet little jewel here is a work of art, and it can sometimes be a real challenge to desecrate these creations with a fork. Go ahead; take a bite. You won't soon forget the experience!

If it's hot out and nothing will do but something cold and creamy, check out one of Portland's gelaterias. These Italian-style frozen-dessert parlors have taken Portland by storm. In the Nob Hill neighborhood, there's Alotto Gelato, 931 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/228-1709), and over in northeast Portland, just off East Burnside Street, there's Staccato Gelato, 232 NE 28th Ave. (tel. 503/231-7100).

Quick Bites & Cheap Eats

If you're just looking for something quick, cheap, and good to eat, there are lots of great options around the city. Downtown, at Good Dog/Bad Dog, 708 SW Alder St. (tel. 503/222-3410), you'll find handmade sausages. The bratwurst with kraut and onions is a good deal.

Designer pizzas topped with anything from roasted eggplant to wild mushrooms to Thai peanut sauce can be had at Pizzicato Gourmet Pizza. Find them downtown at 705 SW Alder St. (tel. 503/226-1007); in Northwest Portland at 505 NW 23rd Ave. (tel. 503/242-0023); and in southeast Portland at 2811 E. Burnside (tel. 503/236-6045).