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Housed in a historic brick warehouse in Portsmouth’s most charming area, the Dolphin Striker tavern eschews glitz for classic oceanside-brasserie comfort. The kitchen serves traditional seafood dishes, with both New England and Continental flair—broiled haddock, mussels in Guinness, seafood fra diavolo, paella—and the execution and plating are top-notch. Seafood loathers can find refuge in a sturdy burger on a ciabatta roll, steak frites, beef Wellington, and the like. The main dining room here has a rustic, public house atmosphere with wide pine-board floors and wooden furniture; downstairs is a comfortable pub known as the Spring Hill Tavern, with quite good acoustic acts. After 10pm, the Striker shelves the heavy fare, but the kitchen stays open with a lighter “tavern” menu.