Fast Facts

Addresses -- In Portugal, the ground floor is not called the first floor as in the United States; what Americans would call the fourth floor is actually the third floor. "ESP" after a floor number indicates that you should go left, and "DIR" means turn right.

American Express -- The entity representing American Express, although operating independently under license from American Express, is Travel Store located in Lisbon at Rua Rodrigues Sampaio (tel. 21/356-53-00). Another office in Lisbon at Aeroporto de Lisboa (tel. 96/696-82-96) also serves as the headquarters for American Express.

Babysitters -- Check with your hotel's staff for arrangements. Most first-class hotels can provide babysitters from lists that the concierge keeps. Remember to request a babysitter no later than the morning if you're going out that evening. Also request one with at least a minimum knowledge of English, if you and your children do not speak Portuguese.

Business Hours -- Hours vary throughout the country, but there is a set pattern. Banks generally are open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 3pm. Currency-exchange offices at airports and rail terminals are open longer hours, and the office at Portela airport outside Lisbon is open 24 hours a day. Most museums open at 10am, close at 5pm, and often close for lunch between 12:30 and 2pm. Larger museums with bigger staffs remain open at midday. Shops are open, in general, Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and from 3 to 7pm, and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Most restaurants serve lunch from noon until 3pm and dinner from 7:30 to 11pm; many close on Sunday. Many nightclubs open at 10pm, but the action doesn't really begin until after midnight and often lasts until between 3 and 5am.

Customs -- You can take into Portugal most personal effects and the following items duty-free: a portable typewriter and one video camera or two still cameras with 10 rolls of film each; a portable radio, a tape recorder, and a laptop PC per person, provided that they show signs of use; 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of wine or 1 liter of liquor per person over 17 years old; and sports equipment, including fishing gear, one bicycle, skis, tennis or squash racquets, and golf clubs.

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duty at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States, using cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order; some locations also accept Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipt of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players -- with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office, or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the U.S. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet "Know Before You Go" online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 202/354-1000) and request the pamphlet.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the booklet "I Declare," issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you're allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada from abroad valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under $60 value"). All valuables, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras, should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada. Note: The C$750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is "Know Before You Go." For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

U.K. citizens returning from a non-E.U. country have a Customs allowance of 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g), plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1,125 milliliters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: "New Zealand Customs Guide for Travelers, Notice no. 4." For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 09/300-5399 or 0800/428-786 in New Zealand; www.customs.govt.nz).

Drugs -- Illegal drugs are plentiful, although penalties can be severe if you're caught possessing or selling illegal narcotics. Judges tend to throw the book at foreigners caught selling illegal narcotics. Bail for foreigners is rare, and local prosecutors have a high conviction rate. All the U.S., British, and Canadian consulates can do is provide you with a list of local attorneys.

Drugstores -- The Portuguese government requires selected pharmacies to stay open at all times of the day and night. They do so under a rotation system. Check with your concierge for the locations and hours of the nearest drugstores, called farmácias de serviço. In general, pharmacies in Portugal are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and from 3 to 7pm, and Saturday from 9am to 1pm.

Electricity -- Voltage is 200 volts AC (50 cycles). Many hardware stores in North America sell the appropriate transformers. The concierge desks of most hotels will lend you a transformer and plug adapters, or tell you where you can buy them nearby. If you have any doubt about whether you have the appropriate transformer, ask at your hotel desk before you try to plug in anything.

Embassies & Consulates -- If you lose your passport or have some other pressing problem, you'll need to get in touch with your embassy.

The Embassy of the United States, on Avenida das Forças Armadas (Sete Rios), 1600 Lisboa (tel. 21/727-33-00), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 12:30pm and from 1:30 to 5pm. If you've lost a passport, the embassy can take photographs for you and help you to obtain the proof of citizenship needed to get a replacement.

The Embassy of Canada is at Av. da Liberdade 200, EDIT Victoria 4th Floor, 1269 Lisboa (tel. 21/316-46-00). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to noon and from 2 to 4pm (in July and Aug the embassy closes at 1pm on Fri).

The Embassy of the United Kingdom, Rua São Bernardo 33, 1249 Lisboa (tel. 21/392-40-00), is open Monday through Thursday from 9:30 to 11:30am and from 3 to 4:30pm, Friday 9am to 12:30pm.

The Embassy of the Republic of Ireland, Rua de Imprensa à Estrêla 1, 1200 Lisboa (tel. 21/392-94-40), is open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and from 2:30 to 4:30pm.

The Embassy of Australia, on Av. de Liberdade 200, 1250 Lisboa (tel. 21/310-15-00), is open Monday through Friday from 9 to 11:30am and 3 to 4:30pm. New Zealanders should go to the British Embassy .

Emergencies -- For the police (or an ambulance) in Lisbon, telephone tel. 115. In case of fire, call tel. 32-22-22 or 60-60-60. For the Portuguese Red Cross, call tel. 61-77-77. The national emergency number in Portugal is tel. 115.

Hospitals -- A prime choice for medical aid is the Hospital S. Francisco Xavier, SA (Estrada Forte do Alto do Duque, Lisboa; tel. 021/300-03-00; www.hsfx.pt). An alternative is Hospital de Egas Moniz, SA (Rua da Junqueira 126, Lisboa; tel. 021/362-28-39; www.hegasmoniz.min-saude.pt).

Language -- English is often spoken in the major resorts and at first-class and deluxe hotels; in smaller places, you'll often need the help of a phrase book or dictionary. One of the most helpful is the Portuguese Phrase Book (Berlitz).

Legal Aid -- Contact your local consulate for a list of English-speaking lawyers if you run into trouble with the law. After that, you're at the mercy of the local courts.

Liquor Laws -- You must be 18 to drink in Portugal. In Lisbon, bars are open until dawn.

Mail -- While in Portugal, you can have your mail directed to your hotel (or hotels), to the American Express representative, or to Poste Restante (General Delivery) in Lisbon. You must present your passport to pick up mail. The general post office in Lisbon is on Praça do Comércio, 1100 Lisbon (tel. 21/346-32-31); it's open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Passports -- For residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (tel. 877/487-6868). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call.

For residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada and from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk).

For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) and at most main post offices.

For residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Contact the Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

For residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

Pets -- Pets brought into Portugal must have the approval of the local veterinarian and a health certificate from your home country.

Taxes -- Since Portugal and neighboring Spain simultaneously joined the Common Market (now the European Union) on January 1, 1986, Portugal has imposed a value-added tax (VAT) on most purchases made within its borders. It ranges from 8% to 30%. Known in Portugal as the IVA, the amount is almost always written into the bottom line of the bill for any purchase a foreign visitor makes. Hotel and restaurant bills are taxed at 18%. Car rentals are subject to an additional 18% tax (less than in some other European countries).

Such deluxe goods as jewelry, furs, and expensive imported liquors include a 30% built-in tax. Because a scotch and soda in a Portuguese bar carries this high tax, many people have changed their choice of alcohol from scotch to Portuguese brandy and soda or, more prosaically, beer.

To get a VAT refund on purchases that qualify (ask the shopkeeper), present your passport to the salesperson and ask for the special stamped form. Present the form with your purchases at the booth marked for IVA tax refunds at the airport. You'll get your money refunded right at the booth. For VAT refunds, you can also apply to Global Refund (www.globalrefund.com).

Time -- Portugal is 5 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States. Like most European countries, Portugal has daylight saving time. It moves its clocks ahead an hour in late spring and an hour back in the fall, corresponding roughly to daylight saving time in the United States; exact dates vary.

Tipping -- Most service personnel expect a good tip rather than a small one, as in the past. Hotels add a service charge (known as serviço), which is divided among the entire staff, but individual tipping is also the rule. Tip 1€ ($1.30) to the bellhop for running an errand, 1€ ($1.30) to the doorman who hails you a cab, 1€ ($1.30) to the porter for each piece of luggage carried, 2.50€ ($3.25) to the wine steward if you've dined often at your hotel, and 1.50€ ($1.95) to the chambermaid.

In first-class or deluxe hotels, the concierge will present you with a separate bill for extras, such as charges for bullfight tickets. A gratuity is expected in addition to the charge. The amount will depend on the number of requests you've made.

Figure on tipping about 20% of your taxi fare for short runs. For longer treks -- for example, from the airport to Cascais -- 15% is adequate.

Restaurants and nightclubs include a service charge and government taxes of 18%. As in hotels, this money is distributed among the entire staff, so extra tipping is customary. Add about 5% to the bill in a moderately priced restaurant, and up to 10% in a deluxe or first-class establishment. For hatcheck in fado houses, restaurants, and nightclubs, tip at least 1€ ($1.30). Washroom attendants get .50€ (65¢).

Water -- Tap water is generally potable throughout Portugal, but bottled water is always safer. Even if the water in Portugal isn't bad, you won't be used to the microbes and can become ill. In rural areas, the water supply might not be purified. Under no circumstances should you swim in or drink from freshwater rivers or streams.