Wanha Laamanni (The Old Judge's Chambers)

The best restaurant in town occupies a barnlike antique building a few steps downhill from the Porvoo Cathedral. It was originally built in 1790, on much older foundations, as a private house with interconnected stables. Today it retains the architectural quirks of its original construction (out-of-kilter floors, low doorways, awkwardly narrow staircases, working fireplaces) and a late-18th-century decor. During clement weather, many diners opt for tables within the building's farm-style courtyard, but if you do, try to at least duck inside to see the interior's meticulously hand-painted wallpaper whose design was inspired by 16th century originals. The chef turns out many excellent Finnish specialties such as whitefish filets marinated with an essence of spruce sap and served with a mustard sauce, duck livers with truffle oil and marinated mushrooms, and chicken filets with fig sauce and peasant-style potato cake. The wine list is among the most comprehensive in town.

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