Positano is blessed with four delightful beaches besides the central Spiaggia Grande by the marina: Fornillo (linked by boat service from the Marina) to the west of town; and La Porta, Ciumicello, and Arienzo to the east. The sand is rather gray and pebbly, but the views are idyllic and the sea is clear and refreshing. You can rent a chair and umbrella at the reserved areas for about 15€ ($21/£11) per day, or use the free but crowded public beach. Another beach, Laurito, is also a bit out of town, but you can easily reach it with the boat service offered by the restaurant Le Sirene, which also rents chairs and umbrellas.
For a quieter swim, locals like to take a boat to one of the small coves accessible only by sea. You can rent a boat at Spiaggia Grande for between 10€ and 25€ ($14-$35/£7-£18) per hour, depending on kind of boat and length of rental. One popular destination is the archipelago of Li Galli (The Roosters), the four small islands visible to the west of Marina Grande. Named Gallo Lungo, Castelluccio, Gallo dei Briganti, and La Rotonda, these are the islands where -- according to Homer -- the Sirens lived. Indeed, the other name of the archipelago is Sirenuse, from the Latin Sirenusae, meaning Sirens. According to legend, these creatures attracted mariners with their enchanted songs and caused their ships to crash into the rocks. In Greek mythology, sirens were represented as birds with human faces and the bodies of fish (hence the name Li Galli, "The Roosters"). Once you skirt past the Sirens and arrive safely on Gallo Lungo, you'll spot a watchtower and the remains of a Roman villa; the archipelago is the site of the house where Rudolf Nureyev spent the last years of his life.
Positano offers many hiking opportunities on the town's outskirts, in addition to the town's own steep streets. The most famous trail is Sentiero degli Dei (Trail of the Gods) linking Positano to Praiano. This is a trail of moderate difficulty, requiring some preparation, but it is -- as its name suggests -- a divine trail. Sections of it are a ridge trail, running high over the sea and affording magnificent views of the entire coast. Starting from Via Chiesa Nuova at the upper end of Positano (north of SS 163), walk around to the right of the church and continue up the steps at the end of the lane. Cross the road there and take the steps to the left; you'll see red and white markers. Allow yourself 5 1/2 hours; you can then catch a bus back to Positano.
Another scenic trail is the climb to Monte Tre Pizzi, the highest mountain of the Costiera at 1440m (4,723 ft.) in altitude. (If you are planning to reach the top, make sure you bring a warm windbreaker jacket.) Birdwatchers should love this trek, because you'll have many occasions to spot the raptors that nest in the area. The trail starts from the Guardia Forestale (Italian Rangers) station in Positano at an altitude of 700m (2,296 ft.). This magnificent trail wends among patches of pine trees and brooks. Eventually, you will reach the ancient village of Santa Maria di Castello with its spectacular natural terrace overlooking Positano (just up from the village). You can also cheat and drive yourself to Santa Maria di Castello (the road approaches from Vico Equense, on the Sorrento side of the peninsula); the top of the mountain is only a short hike up from the village.
An easier hike is the ascent to Nocelle, at an altitude of 443m (1,453 ft.). In this little paradise where cars are not allowed, you can have an excellent lunch (or dinner) at Ristorante Santa Croce (make reservations in advance by calling tel. 089-875319). The trail starts at the end of Via Monsignor Clinque, in the upper part of town. Count on spending about 1 hour for the ascent; afterwards, you can return to Positano by bus.
The most popular of the trails is Via degli Incanti (Trail of Charmes), winding between Positano and Amalfi among terraces of citrus groves. The going is easy in this direction but more demanding from Amalfi. You don't need to hike the whole thing (25km/16 miles), because the trail crosses SS 163 at several points (Praiano, or Conca dei Marini, for instance); choose only a section of the trail, if you wish, using the bus to return.
