Attractions

Positano remains as picturesque as ever in spite of the crowds. It is not a destination for the faint of heart, though, with steep ramps of stairs serving as walkways. The typical pastel-colored houses -- cubes with domed roofs and porticoes or loggias overlooking the sea -- poke from the overflowing green of gardens and citrus groves. Tip: Wearing comfortable shoes without heels is a must here; otherwise, climbing the steep alleys and many steps will be an ordeal.

The heart of town is Marina Grande, the beach where fishermen used to haul up their boats. At its western end is the pier where ferries arrive and depart. From Marina Grande starts Via Positanesi d'America -- a cliffside pedestrian promenade, and the only flat street in Positano -- which stretches along the shore past the cape of Torre Trasita to the smaller beach of Fornillo. Not far from Marina Grande is the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, Piazza Flavio Gioia (tel. 089-875480; daily 8am-noon and 4-7pm), founded in the 13th century and later decorated with a gorgeous majolica dome. Inside, you will find the famous tavola of the Madonna Nera (Black Madonna), an icon in 13th-century Byzantine style. The church is at the center of the Festival of the Assunta.

In our opinion, though, the best churches of Positano are the lesser-known ones. The small Chiesa di Nuova, Via Chiesa Nuova, was restored in the 18th century, and has a striking colored tile floor, one of the most beautiful in an area known for its colorful tile work. The Chiesa di Santa Caterina, Via Pasitea, built for the local Porcelli family, is another small architectural masterpiece in neo-Gothic style, with an elegant bell tower. Just west of Positano on SS 163 is the renowned Belvedere dello Schiaccone, the best lookout on Amalfi Drive. At 200m (656 ft.) above sea level, it overlooks the archipelago of Li Galli and Capo Sottile over a palm and citrus grove, with the splendid Monte Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi in the background.