Nightlife

Music on the Rocks, Spiaggia Grande Via Grotte dell'Incanto 51 (tel. 089-875874; www.musicontherocks.it), is designed on two levels, one of which contains a quieter piano bar. It's owned by the same man who owns the chic Chez Black .

Similar in its choice of music, crowd, and setting is L'Africana, Vettica Maggiore (tel. 089-874042), in the nearby resort of Praiano, about 2.4km (4 miles) from Positano. Local fishermen come in during the most frenzied peak of the dancing. At a sinkhole at the edge of the dance floor, they lower their nets to pull up a catch of seafood for local restaurants. The contrast of New Age music with old-world folklore is as riveting as it is bizarre. Many chic guests from Positano arrive by boat. Both clubs open nightly at around 10pm June to August, but only Friday and Saturday in May and September, and they're closed the rest of the year.