During the sweet summer nights, Positano's bars are packed with locals and visitors having aperitivo and indulging in people watching. A perfect spot is L'lncanto (Via Marina 4; tel. 089-811177), not far from the sea at Spiaggia Grande, and so is popular Chez Black (Via del Brigantino 19; tel. 089-875036) nearby. Right on the beach of Spiaggia Grande is the historical La Buca di Bacco, Via del Brigantino35 (tel. 089-811461; www.bucapositano.it), which started as a tavern and a nightclub that was the meeting place for the local dolce vita back when Positano was an exclusive resort for VIPs; it is poised for a new era of glory. The bar in front is a perfect place for a coffee or a granite, while the tavern below has evolved into a pleasant late-night wine bar-cum-art-gallery and Internet cafe. Good food and pizza are available at La Pergola, above. Another hot spot is De Martino, Viale Pasitea 182 (tel. 089-875082), a bar with live music on the terrace over the marina (they also make excellent coffee). The popular Internazionale, Via Marconi 306, by Chiesa Nuova (tel. 089-875434) has a good wine selection and yummy pastries. If you have a sweet tooth, you will definitely like La Zagara, Via dei Mulini 8 (tel. 089-875964), where locals love to come after dinner to enjoy excellent homemade ice cream and granite in various flavors -- try the melon -- in a marvelous garden of orange and lemon trees. Their famous pastry shop serves torta positanese (a local cake made with almonds), delizie al limone (lemon cream puffs), and Babarese, a babà pastry filled with wild strawberries and whipped cream.
Another wine bar we like is the enoteca I sapori di Positano, Via dei Mulini 6; tel. 089-811116), where you can taste the best wines of the region, including the little-known local spumante, as well as a good selection of national wines. They also produce small batches of quality rosolio (sweet liqueur) and excellent citrus marmalades. Another good wine bar is Con Vinum (Via Rampa Teglia 12; tel. 089-811461), where a trendy local crowd comes to listen to live jazz on summer weekends and to sip at the good vintages.
If your thing is dancing, you should head for Music on the Rocks (Via Grotto dell'Incanto 51; tel. 089-875874; www.musicontherocks.it), the two-level club owned by the same owners as Chez Black, with a disco and a quieter piano bar. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights in May and September, and daily June through August; it is closed October through April.
