Side Trips

Venturing outside of Prague requires much more patience and flexibility than you'll need within the city due to the lack of tourist conveniences and scarcer use of English. For those who possess adventurous qualities, day trips to the surrounding countryside or longer excursions beyond can be surprising and rewarding. While Prague is well into its postrevolution reconstruction, many outlying provinces still groan under the decay of the former regime. But there are still pockets of outstanding beauty, unique history, and eccentric pleasures which you can only experience by exiting the tourist bubble in the capital.

Prague has been blessed with golden spires, but the surrounding area is dotted with some of Europe's most beautiful castles, such as the majestic Karlstejn, where you can play a round of golf on a championship course or spend a night in a romantic inn. Also spectacular are the impregnable Ceský Sternberk, the hunting lodge of Konopiste, and the interior of Krivoklát. I still think the castle in Orlík overlooking the wide expanse of the Vltava is the nicest of them all. As much as these sites testify to the country's beauty, there are also monuments that reflect its suffering. Witness the remains of Lidice, what once was a small, sleepy village before it was leveled by Nazis; and Terezín (Theresienstadt in German), the "model" Jewish ghetto, the so-called Paradise Ghetto, where a cruel trick duped the world and left thousands to die. Also worth exploring is the medieval mining town of Kutná Hora (with the macabre "Bone Church" a mile away in Sedlec).

When you tire of touring castles, you can play a round of golf on a championship course in Karlstejn (or Mariánské Lázne if you have the time for a longer trip), sneak away to a cozy inn, or try the next generation of bungee jumping. You can also enjoy a glass of wine at the Renaissance Lobkovic Château, the center of winemaking in the most unlikely of places, Melník.

Even if you don't have much time, try to spend at least a day or two outside Prague to explore the countryside.

A Romantic Getaway--If the air and noise of Prague start to grate on your nerves, or if a quiet, romantic, overnight trip to a castle in the country sounds like the perfect getaway, head for the Romantic Hotel Mlýn (Mill Hotel), 267 18 Karlstejn (tel. 311-744-411; fax 311-744-444; www.hotelmlynkarlstejn.cz).

On the river's edge on the bank opposite the castle, the Mlýn is exactly what its name says -- a mill. Converted into a hotel and recently reconstructed, this reasonably priced country inn takes you away from the hustle and bustle of traveling. Its 28 rooms are a little on the small side, but they're quaint and nicely decorated with rustic furniture. At the outdoor patio bar and very good restaurant, you can relax and enjoy the soothing sounds of the river. Service here is a cut above what it is at the other hotels in the area. If you are here for lunch or dinner when the outdoor grill has been fired up, take advantage of it. Use the hotel also as a base for bike and canoe trips along the river. The staff can help you with local tennis courts and reservations for a round of golf.

Rates are 2,500Kc ($104) for a single and 3,100Kc ($129) for a double. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. To get to the hotel, take the bridge across the river that leads to the train station and turn left at the first street. If you cross the rail tracks, you've gone too far.

Tips for Day Tripping

All the destinations described are easily accessible from Prague by car, train, or bus. Most do not have accommodations, so they are best visited in a day. Students should always show ID cards and ask for discounts, which are sometimes available.

Getting There

By Car -- A liter of gasoline costs about 30Kc ($1.25), expensive by North American standards but cheaper than in western Europe. Gas stations are plentiful, and most are equipped with small convenience stores.

Except for main highways, which are a seemingly endless parade of construction sites, roads tend to be narrow and in need of repair. Add maniacal Czech drivers in BMWs and Mercedes fighting for the limited space alongside the Communist-era Skodas, and you may think that it's a better option to take the train. Especially at night, you should drive only on major roads. If you must use smaller roads, be careful.

If you experience car trouble, major highways have emergency telephones from which you can call for assistance. There's also the ÚAMK, a 24-hour motor assistance club that provides service for a fee. They drive bright-yellow pickup trucks and can be summoned on main highways by using the SOS emergency phones located at the side of the road every kilometer or so. If you are not near one of these phones or are on a road that doesn't have them, you can contact ÚAMK at tel. 1230. This is a toll-free call.

B Train -- Trains run by Ceské dráhy (Czech Railways) provide a good and less expensive alternative to driving. The fare is determined by how far you travel. 50km (31 miles) cost 64Kc ($2.65) in second class or 96Kc ($4) in first class. First class is not usually available, or needed, on shorter trips.

It's important to find out which Prague station your train departs from, since not all trains leave from the main station, though all major stations are on metro lines. Check when you buy your tickets. Trains heading to destinations in the north, such as Terezín, usually depart from Nádrazí Holesovice, Vrbenského ulice, Praha 7 (tel. 224-615-865), above the Nádrazí Holesovice metro stop at the end of the Red metro line (line C). Local trains to the southeast are commonly found at Smíchovské Nádrazí, Nádrazní ulice, Praha 5 (tel. 224-617-686), on the yellow metro line heading west from the center. Most trains to west and south Bohemia and Moravia leave from Hlavní Nádrazí (Main Station), Wilsonova 80, Praha 1 (tel. 224-614-071), at the metro stop of the same name on the red metro (line C) in the center. Train stations in Prague are now better at providing information, especially in English. There are also timetables for public use that allow you to plan your trips.

Czech Rail Online--Czech Rail has a useful though somewhat complicated website in English, German, and Czech at www.cdrail.cz. To check the timetable, go to www.jizdnirady.cz or www.idos.cz.

By Bus -- The Czech Republic operates a pretty decent bus system, and because trains often follow circuitous routes, buses can be a better, though slightly more expensive, option. State-run CSAD buses are still relatively inexpensive and surprisingly abundant, and they offer terrific coverage of the country. Like train passengers, bus passengers are charged on a kilometer basis, with each kilometer costing about 91 hellers (4¢). Make sure, however, that you buy your tickets early, especially on weekends, and get to the proper boarding area early to ensure you get a seat.

Prague's main bus station, Central Bus Station -- Florenc, Krizíkova 5, Praha 8 (for bus connections information call tel. 900-144-444; www.florenc.cz), is above the Florenc metro stop (line C). Unfortunately, few employees speak English here, making it a bit tricky for non-Czech speakers to obtain schedule information. To find your bus, you can try the large boards just next to the office where all buses are listed. They're in alphabetical order, but sometimes it's tough to find your destination since it may lie in the middle of a route to another place. If you have some time before you depart Prague, your best bet for bus information and tickets is to visit Cedok, Na Príkope 18, Praha 1 (tel. 800-112-112 or 224-197-111; www.cedok.cz), open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm.

Organized Day Tours

Once upon a time, taking a day trip from Prague (or taking any trip in the Czech Republic for that matter) meant dealing with the state monopoly travel agency, Cedok. But as Cedok's stranglehold on tourist services has lessened, dozens of agencies have sprouted up around town offering guided tours both inside and outside Prague. Though most offer more or less the same services, it pays to shop around. Try the following agencies.

Martin Tour, Stepánská 61, Praha 1 (tel. 224-212-473; fax 224-239-752; www.martintour.cz), has been around for several years and offers a couple of worthy tours. The Karlstejn Castle tour is their best. The tour is offered Tuesday to Sunday, departing at 10am. It takes 5 hours and is expedient because you don't wait around for the next general tour at the castle. A traditional Czech lunch at a nearby restaurant is included (diabetics, vegetarians, and babies can be accommodated). The tour with lunch costs 950Kc ($40). The 5-hour trip to the country's Jewish memorial of Terezín costs 1,100Kc ($46). The bus leaves four times a week at 9:30am from Staromestské námestí.

Cedok, Na Príkope 18, Praha 1 (tel. 800-112-112 or 224-197-111; www.cedok.cz), in the heart of Prague, has its advantages. For one, it offers by far the widest array of tours outside of Prague. Cedok has been doing this so long that it has access to all the important sights as well as guides who speak several languages. Prices are reasonable. A day trip to Karlovy Vary, lunch, a swim at the Hotel Thermal outdoor pool, and a tour of the Moser glass factory costs 1,650Kc ($69), while a journey to Karlstejn Castle and Château Konopiste, lunch and tour included, costs 1,860Kc ($77).

If you're pressed for time, a good tour is offered by Prague Sightseeing Tours, Klimentská 52, Praha 1 (tel. 222-314-655; www.pstours.cz). The company offers a combination all-day tour of the castles Karlstejn and Konopiste that includes lunch. It's a good way to see both castles without the hassle of negotiating the train and bus stations. However, the price is 1,880Kc ($78) for adults and 1,320Kc ($55) for children.

A Note on Tours--Though many good organized tours are offered, for the most part I'd recommend going it alone. This gives you the freedom to change plans at the last minute in order to get a little more of what you want, not just what the tours provide. Besides, you get a greater sense of accomplishment when you navigate Eastern Europe on your own.