Hotels

The range of accommodations in Prague has widened significantly since the 1989 revolution. Today you can choose the opulence of the Four Seasons Hotel, the coziness of an innovative B&B, or a more spartan stay in a hostel.

Many hotels and pensions are old properties reconstructed to a higher standard, including refined interiors and tiled bathrooms with modern fixtures. The concept of easy access for travelers with disabilities has been slower to emerge, however. Only a few places offer facilities; I've noted them below.

With a very efficient metro and tram system, it is relatively easy to stay in one part of Prague and quickly visit another quarter, but if you want to awaken with the Golden City glowing in your window, a room with a view in Old Town or Malá Strana is worth the splurge.

Which Quarter?--If location is important to you, there are three areas among which you should choose. If you're lucky enough to stay in one of the few rooms on the castle hill in Hradcany, you'll feel as if you have a privileged position where princes, potentates, and politburo wonks once roamed. You'll also pay for this privilege. You'll remember your stay in Malá Strana because of the quiet old-world atmosphere of this compact quarter, whose red roofs lie in the afternoon shadow of Prague Castle and fight for attention with the dome of St. Nicholas Church. A room in Old Town (Staré Mesto) will put you right in the heart of the largest saturation of shops, theaters, and restaurants. It's certainly the most lively quarter.

Elsewhere, you'll find more affordable options near fine restaurants, cafes, and services in Vinohrady, just above Wenceslas Square off the Námestí Míru metro station. This part of New Town (Nové Mesto) is quickly becoming the trendy part of central Prague, with gentrified First Republic apartment buildings and greener residential neighborhoods. As for staying on Wenceslas Square, my advice is to avoid this increasingly rough area, unless you enjoy living on the edge.

Money-Saving Tips--Many hotels set their prices depending on the koruna's market rate against the euro, so prices change frequently.

Czech hotel reception attendants have little interest in haggling over room rates, but sometimes you can still get a deal. Try calling in advance and getting a very senior manager (preferably the owner) to book your room. Be clear that you're looking at other properties and don't be afraid to say that price does matter. If there are plenty of rooms around town, you're in a great negotiating position. You can also seek a higher discount for a longer stay.

What's for Breakfast?--In most hotels and B&Bs the room rate includes breakfast -- usually heavy bread or rolls (rohlíky), jam, butter, cheese spreads, and sometimes liver pâté, plus yogurt, cereal, juice, milk, and coffee or tea. Occasionally, slices of Prague ham or smoked pork (debrecínka), local cheeses, and fresh fruit will join the buffet, and some offer ham and eggs cooked to order.

Hotels -- Full-service hotels have begun to catch up with Western standards in the face of competition, but rooms are still more expensive than those in many European hotels of similar or better quality. The staff, while much more attentive than they were soon after the revolution, still often act as if you are invading their turf.

The selection is growing, but because there's not much room to build in the historic center, newer properties tend to be farther out.

Private Rooms & Apartments -- Rooms in private homes are more expensive than dorms in student hostels but provide a little more privacy. Many, if not most, of these rooms will be located in the center of the city, but some are in outlying massive concrete housing blocks called sídliste. The exteriors are akin to those of prisons, but unlike many Western housing projects, these are relatively safe and well maintained and usually have a basic level of comfort and amenities. Some owners take special care of these rooms, and you may stumble on a homey place with old Bohemian charm. Most of the projects are close to metro stations or tram lines, so getting to the city center shouldn't take longer than 15 to 30 minutes. Expect to pay between 500Kc and 1,000Kc ($21 and $42) per person per night for accommodations in these homes.

Better than the private rooms where you will have to share space with your landlord are the private apartments offered to tourists for anywhere from 1 night to a long-term stay. These may be the best value around for privacy and location. Expect to pay between 2,000Kc and 4,000Kc ($83 and $166) per night for a studio apartment for two, depending on location. Larger apartments are also available.

Several local agencies offer assistance. The leader now is Prague-based E-Travel.cz (www.travel.cz or www.apartments.cz). Its office is near the National Theater at Ostrovní 7 (tel. 224-990-990; fax 224-990-999). Another agency, especially good for those arriving late by train or air, is AVE Travel Ltd. (tel. 251-091-111; www.avetravel.cz). It has outlets at the airport, open daily from 7am to 10pm; at the main train station, Hlavní nádrazí, open daily from 6am to 11pm; and at the north train station, Nádrazí Holesvice, open daily from 7am to 8:30pm.

Pensions -- These guesthouses with few services are cheaper than hotels, but when compared to similar Western B&Bs, they're still relatively expensive. Some have found a niche offering a quaint stay in a quiet neighborhood.

Websites with Online Reservations

Most travel agencies provide online reservation service. My advice is to check the prices of accommodations on several different websites, since the competition is significant. Also, many hotels and pensions come up with special offers to visitors throughout the year. You can find out more on these well-organized websites:

www.prague-accommodation-guide.com

www.euroagentur.cz

www.praguehotels.cz

www.hotelline.cz

www.travel.cz