Attractions

While Prague's classical music and the Czech Republic's unmatched beer are among some of the better reasons to visit, the primary pleasure for many is simply strolling Prague's winding cobblestone streets and enjoying the unique atmosphere. Only by foot can you explore the countless nooks and crannies. It would be hard to think of another world capital where there is so much in such a compact area.

Exquisite examples from the history of European architecture -- from Romanesque to Renaissance, from baroque to Art Nouveau to cubist -- are crammed next to one another on twisting narrow streets. Seen from Charles Bridge, this jumble of architecture thrusts from the hills and hugs the riverbanks, with little of the 20th century's own excesses obscuring the grandeur from the past millennium. The most revered areas remain relatively free of the blindingly electric technicolored world -- however, splotches of graffiti and seemingly constant reconstruction often taint the mood.

While Prague's leaders have been slow to tap into the city's true potential as a primary European tourist destination, there have been some marked improvements in recent years. Buildings within the city center, the walking zone Na Príkope, and Václavské námestí, have undergone several changes and renovations.

In 2000 Slovanský Dum re-opened after a massive reconstruction. One of the Prague's most popular cultural and social meeting places for more than a century, today this site houses one of the city's most modern cinema complexes, several new restaurants, and shops.

Saving Money on Entrance Fees--If you like museums, galleries, castles, or churches, you may consider getting a Prague Card. This pass is valid for 3 days and allows you to visit up to 40 top attractions in the city, including the Prague Castle.

The price is 590Kc ($24) adults and 410Kc ($17) students under 26, and you can buy it at the Cedok office or the PIS information center at Na Príkope 20, Praha 1. For more information and the whole list of sights go to www.praguecard.biz.

What's Going on Around Town?--The Prague Information Service maintains a listing of current exhibits on its website at www.pis.cz. Also, the English newspaper the Prague Post offers a good and updated list of cultural and social events in Prague. See www.praguepost.com.

The Art of Getting Lost

Prague is popular -- too popular, really -- and you can find yourself in the middle of a special moment only to have it punctured by an umbrella or the loud voice of a tour guide from Ohio. So my advice to visitors trying to get a peek into the real life of Czechs is simple: Get lost. Get really, really lost.

You won't stray too far, since "tourist Prague" encompasses a relatively small area. And you know the landmarks: the castle, the bridge, the river, Old Town Square. So leave the map behind.

My favorite times to get lost in Prague are early morning and late at night. One foggy morning, I woke up early, grabbed a coffee in the breakfast room of my Communist-era hotel, and headed out. I'm not sure which direction I went -- left, I think. I strolled several blocks into unfamiliar territory. I found a wonderful bookshop where I picked up a Czech version of Maurice Sendak's Where the Wild Things Are. Then I ducked into an old camera shop in search of film. The shop carried not only the latest German and Japanese cameras but also fascinating, old Eastern European cameras that looked to my American eyes like some discarded cosmonaut space garbage. Next, I discovered a little hut of a church that was dark and wonderful; two old Czech women dusted while I looked around. I'd love to tell you where these memorable places were, but you see, I was lost.

Another great way to get lost is to hop on a tram and let the driver take you where he's going. Get off when you see an intriguing neighborhood, if you're hungry, or if you have to go to the bathroom. Or, if you're adventurous, follow someone. For 40 minutes I trailed an old woman doing her shopping. Wow, did she get me lost! I followed her into a local food shop, not one of the big chains filled with processed foods and produce from Germany, but a little "czecha" shop. I bought some candy, which I still have -- for me candy is the best kind of souvenir.

Late in the evening, as you wander aimlessly through Old Town, you'll half expect to see ghosts darting about. The lanterns along the uneven cobblestone streets don't really help you navigate; instead, I'm convinced that their function is to set a mysterious, quiet mood. That peacefulness is occasionally interrupted by the sounds of late-night revelers. You may be tempted to join them for a pivo (beer).

Roaming the streets of Prague is like unraveling a big ball of twine. When you get lost, you're likely to find something special, some experience that will make you feel "of" the place, rather than just passing through.

So remember where you are. Then get lost.

-- by Bill Boedeker

Light It Up: The Rolling Stones Give Satisfaction

Are the lights flickering in Spanish Hall? If they are, someone might be playing with the remote control that operates the lighting.

In the summer of 1995, the Rolling Stones played to a crowd of more than 100,000 people in their second Prague concert since the Velvet Revolution. After finishing, the Stones gave Václav Havel, then president and a big fan, a bright gift: They paid for a $32,000 overhaul of the lighting in four of the castle's grand halls, including the Spanish Hall and Vladislav Hall. The director and lighting designer of their record-breaking Voodoo Lounge Tour managed the project.

The result? Well, it's a somewhat more dignified spectacle than the raucous light show that was part of the mythical Voodoo Lounge Tour on stage. Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Charlie Watts, and Ron Wood presented Havel with a remote control to operate the chandeliers and spotlights that now strategically cast their beams on baroque statues and tapestries.