Getting Around

By Public Transportation

Prague's public transportation network is one of the few sound Communist-era legacies and is still remarkably affordable. In central Prague, metro (subway) stations abound. Trams and buses offer a cheap sightseeing experience but also require a strong stomach for jostling with fellow passengers in close quarters.

Tickets & Passes -- For single-use tickets, there are two choices. You can ride a maximum of five stations on the metro (not including the station of validation) or 20 minutes on a tram or bus, without transfers (on the metro you can transfer from line A to B to C within 30 min.), for 14Kc (60¢); children 6 and under ride free, 6- to 15-year-olds for 7Kc (30¢). This is usually enough for trips in the historic districts. Rides of more than five stops on the metro, or longer tram or bus rides, with unlimited transfers for up to 75 minutes (90 min. on Sat, Sun, public holidays, and after 8pm on workdays) after your ticket is validated, cost 20Kc (85¢).

A 1-day pass good for unlimited rides is 80Kc ($3.35), a 3-day pass 220Kc ($9.15), a 7-day pass 280Kc ($12), and a 15-day pass 320Kc ($13).

You can buy tickets from yellow coin-operated machines in metro stations or at most newsstands marked TABÁK or TRAFIKA. Hold on to your validated ticket throughout your ride -- you'll need to show it if a ticket collector (be sure to check for his or her badge) asks you. If you're caught without a valid ticket, you'll be asked, and not so kindly, to pay a fine on the spot while all the locals look on, shaking their heads in disgust. The fine is 500Kc ($21).

Getting the Most from Your Tram Fare--If you're taking tram no. 22 or 23 to Prague Castle from Národní or anywhere farther from the castle, I recommend you get a 20Kc (85¢) ticket. It is valid for 75 minutes of tram ride on weekdays (up to 90 min. after 8pm and on weekends). Use the 14Kc (60¢) ticket only for a short travel distance (one or two tram stops) since it is only good for 20 minutes and you may get caught beyond this limit.

By Metro -- Metro trains operate daily from 5am to midnight and run every 2 to 6 minutes. On the three lettered lines (A, B, and C, color-coded green, yellow, and red, respectively), the most convenient central stations are Mustek, at the foot of Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Sq.); Staromestská, for Old Town Square and Charles Bridge; and Malostranská, serving Malá Strana and the Castle District. Refer to the metro map for details.

By Electric Tram or Bus -- The 24 electric tram (streetcar) lines run practically everywhere, and there's always another tram with the same number traveling back. You never have to hail trams; they make every stop. The most popular trams, nos. 22 and 23 (aka the "tourist trams" and the "pickpocket express"), run past top sights like the National Theater and Prague Castle. Regular bus and tram service stops at midnight, after which selected routes run reduced schedules, usually only once per hour. Schedules are posted at stops. If you miss a night connection, expect a long wait for the next.

Buses tend to be used only outside the older districts of Prague and have 3-digit numbers.

Both the buses and tram lines begin their morning runs around 4:30am.

By Funicular -- The funicular (cog railway) makes the scenic run up and down Petrín Hill every 10 minutes (15 in winter season) daily from 9am to 11:30pm with an intermediate stop at the Nebozízek restaurant halfway down the hill, which overlooks the city. It requires the 20Kc (85¢) ticket or any of the same transport passes as other modes of public transport and departs from a small house in the park at Újezd in Malá Strana.

By Taxi

I have one word for you: Beware.

You can hail taxis in the streets or in front of train stations, large hotels, and popular attractions, but many drivers simply gouge visitors. In the late 1990s, the city canceled price regulations, but instead of creating price competition, it started a turf war between cabbies vying for the best taxi stands. The best fare you can hope for is 22Kc (90¢) per kilometer and 25Kc ($1.05) for the starting rate when you phone a taxi company. It will get more expensive when you stop a taxi on the street. Rates usually aren't posted outside on the taxi's door but on the dashboard -- once you're inside it's a bit late to haggle. Try to get the driver to agree to a price and write it down before you get in. Better yet, go by foot or public transport.

If you must go by taxi, call reputable companies with English-speaking dispatchers: AAA Taxi (tel. 14014 or 222-333-222; www.aaataxi.cz); ProfiTaxi (tel. 844-700-800; www.profitaxi.cz); or SEDOP (tel. 271-722-222; www.sedop.cz). Demand a receipt for the fare before you start, as it'll keep them a little more honest.

By Rental Car

Driving in Prague isn't worth the money or effort. The roads are frustrating and slow, and parking is minimal and expensive. However, a car is a plus if you want to explore other parts of the Czech Republic.

Rental Companies -- Try Europcar Czech Rent a Car, Parízská 28, Praha 1 (tel. 224-811-290; www.europcar.cz), or at Ruzyne Airport, Praha 6 (tel. 235-364-531). There's also Hertz, Karlovo nám. 28, Praha 2 (tel. 222-231-010; www.hertz.cz). Budget is at Ruzyne Airport (tel. 220-113-253; www.budget.cz) and in the Hotel Inter-Continental, námestí Curieových, Praha 1 (tel. 222-319-595).

Local car-rental companies sometimes offer lower rates than the big international firms. Compare CS Czechocar, Kongresové centrum (Congress Center at Vysehrad metro stop on the C line), Praha 4 (tel. 261-222-079 or 261-222-143; www.czechocar.cz), or at Ruzyne Airport, Praha 6 (tel. 220-113-454); or try SeccoCar, Prístavní 39, Praha 7 (tel. 220-800-647; www.seccocar.cz).

Car rates can be negotiable. Try to obtain the best possible deal with the rental company by asking about discounts. Special deals are often offered for keeping the car for an extended period, for unlimited mileage (or at least getting some miles thrown in free), or for a bigger car at a lower price. You can usually get some sort of discount for a company or an association affiliation. Check before you leave home and take a member ID card with you.

Since extras can send prices into the stratosphere, find out all the charges you're likely to incur; besides the daily or weekly rental, consider the mileage charge, insurance, the cost of fuel, and tax on the total rental (19% in Prague). In addition, you may be paying for parking along the way. If you already have collision coverage on your own auto insurance, you're most likely covered when behind the wheel of a rental car; check with your insurance carrier. If you decide on European insurance, be sure it doesn't come with a $1,000 deductible. A collision-damage waiver (CDW) usually costs $7 to $13 per day. Some credit card companies, including American Express, automatically insure cardholders against collision damage at no extra charge when they rent a car using the company's card.

Roadways & Emergencies -- Major roadways radiate from Prague like spokes on a wheel, so touring the country is easy if you make the capital your base. The Prague-Brno motorway is the most traveled, but the new Prague-Nürnberg motorway (dálnice) has opened a 2-hour express route into western Germany (though parts of both the German and Czech sides are not yet complete). You are advised to check the most recent map before you travel. Alternatively, see www.ceskedalnice.cz, where you will find updates on the newly built motorways. If you are going to use any of these, you have to purchase a special stamp-sticker (dálnicní známka), which goes on your windshield. Most filling stations and post offices sell them. The sticker costs 200Kc ($8.30) for 15 days, 300Kc ($12) for 2 months, or 900Kc ($37) for the calendar year. Rented cars should come with a valid stamp already.

Czech roads are often narrow and in need of repair. Add to this drivers who live out their speedway fantasies on these pot-holed beauties, and you may want to take the train. The few superhighways that do exist are in good shape, so whenever possible, stick to them, especially at night. If you have car trouble, major highways have SOS emergency phones to call for assistance, located about every 1km (half-mile). There's also the ÚAMK, a 24-hour auto club like AAA that can provide service for a fee. You can summon its bright yellow pickup trucks on the main highways by using the emergency phones. If you're not near an SOS phone or are on a road without them, you can contact ÚAMK at tel. 1230 (www.uamk.cz), or ABA, another emergency assistance company, at tel. 1240 (www.aba.cz).

Foreign drivers are required to have an international driver's license and proof of international insurance (a green card issued with rental cars). Czech police are infamous for stopping cars with foreign plates, and the "fines" they exact are often negotiable. If you're stopped, expect to pay at least 1,000Kc ($41) for speeding. Those caught by the police should ask for some type of receipt (úcet in Czech, pronounced "oo-chet"); this can help cut down on overpayment.

Gasoline -- Not only are rentals expensive, gasoline (benzín) in the Czech Republic costs much more than you're accustomed to paying -- around 30Kc ($1.25) per liter, or 120Kc ($5) per gallon. Filling stations, which used to be difficult to find, are now on all major highways. Most are open 24 hours, and many have minimarkets with food and drink as well. If you're leaving the country, fill up near the border, as the price of gas in Austria and Germany is much higher still.

Parking -- Finding a parking spot in Prague can sometimes be even more challenging than driving in this maze of a city. Fines for illegal parking can be stiff, but worse are "Denver Boots," which immobilize cars until a fine is paid. If you find your car booted, call the number on the ticket, tell them where you are, wait for the clamp removers, and pay them 500Kc ($21) or more depending on your violation. The city has now installed street parking meters marked with a blue "P" in required zones; they issue slips that you place inside your car on the dashboard so they're visible through the windshield. These normally run from 20Kc to 30Kc (85¢-$1.25) per hour for up to 4 hours.

Special Driving Rules -- Seat belts are required, you may not -- repeat not -- legally make a right turn when a traffic light is red, and autos must stop when a pedestrian steps into a crosswalk (however, they often don't, as you'll find when you're walking around). Children under 1.5m (about 5 ft.) tall can't ride in the front seat. On major highways, the speed limit is 130kmph (80 mph). The yellow diamond road sign denotes the right of way at an unregulated intersection. When approaching an intersection, always check to see who has the right of way, since the "main" road can change several times within blocks on the same street.

By Bike

Though there are no special bike lanes in the city center, and smooth streets are unheard of, Prague is a particularly fun city to bike when the crowds are thin. Vehicular traffic is limited in the city center, where small, winding streets seem especially suited to two-wheeled vehicles. Surprisingly, few people take advantage of this opportunity; cyclists are largely limited to the few foreigners who have imported their own bikes. The city's ubiquitous cobblestones make mountain bikes the natural choice. Check with your hotel about a rental, or try Dodosport at Na Zderaze 5 (tel. 272-769-387).