Jogging

Prague's sometimes thick smog makes jogging more like smoking, but on clear days -- and there are many in summer -- the air is bearable. For the most scenic run, jog on the paths atop the Vysehrad citadel, accessible by tram no. 3 or 16 from Karlovo námestí. The parks at Kampa and Letná are also good places to run. The paths crisscrossing Petrín Hill offer a challenging uphill route. The best no-traffic, long-distance runs -- flat, long, and mostly tree-lined -- are found at Stromovka Park.

If you want to run through central Prague, use the traffic-restricted walking zones as often as you can. For an approximately 2.5km (1.5-mile) circuit, start at Mustek at the end of Wenceslas Square, run down Na Príkope through the Powder Tower (Prasná brána) to Celetná Street all the way to Old Town Square, run around the Hus monument, run back to Zelezná Street past the Estates' Theater on to Rytírská Street, and run back to Mustek. This route is virtually free of cars, but your feet will be pounding the bricks. Try running in early morning or late evening before the crowds block your way.

The Prague International Marathon

"The narrow streets in the first two miles enforce a leisurely early pace, and the violinists on the Charles Bridge are the first live musicians along the way. After that, jazz, funk, samba, reggae and classical music groups help the runners as the miles begin to take their toll."

-- George A. Hirsch, Publisher, Runner's World

The Prague International Marathon (PIM), Prague's premier annual civic-pride event, has grown by leaps and bounds since it was first run in 1995. The 42.2km (26.2-mile) race attracted just under 1,000 runners in its first year, but in 2004 they had more than 8,000 runners from 60 countries. That number combined with the Fun Run, a 6km (4-mile) race for families, totals about 40,000 people or even more.

Many come to take advantage of the unique chance to run through Prague's cobblestone streets without having to dodge Skodas and trams. Others, especially nonrunners, love the festive atmosphere in Old Town Square, the music groups that line the race routes, and, of course, the great Czech beer that flows across the finish line.

My husband, John, a consummate couch potato, was so inspired by the event that he was motivated to train just enough to run the 1999 marathon (although he missed his goal of breaking 4 hr. and has yet to attempt it again).

The marathon route takes runners through the very heart of old Prague. The final stage of the race winds through the quirky streets of Old Town and eventually ends back at Old Town Square. Public transport on race day is free for participants who show their start number. A free massage and plenty of affordable pivo (beer) is available in the finish area, along with plenty of other energy-restoring liquids.

For those who would like to give it a shot, the race takes place usually on the third Sunday in May, starting at 9am in Old Town Square (Staromestské nám.). Marathoners can register for the race in person at the PIM EXPO, at Záhoranského 3, Praha 2. You can also register in advance by phone or online (tel. 224-919-209; www.pim.cz). The registration fee for the full marathon is 1,900Kc ($79); for family fun runs, the cost is about 300Kc ($12). All marathon runners must get their timing chip (shorter distances are not officially timed).