Konopiste

48km (30 miles) S of Prague

A 17th-century castle-turned-hunting-lodge built by the Habsburgs, Konopiste was the Club Med of its time. Here emperors and archdukes relaxed amid the well-stocked hunting grounds surrounding the castle. In 1887, the castle became the property of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, who often went hunting, until that fateful day in Sarajevo when he and his wife, Sophie, became the prey.

If you're driving, you can see both Konopiste and Ceský Sternberk in 1 day.

Getting There -- If you're driving, leave Prague on the D1 expressway heading south and exit at the Benesov cutoff. From there, turn right at the signs for Konopiste. Watch out: The turn sneaks up on you, so start looking for it just after you pass the Benzina gas station on your right. The trip takes 45 minutes. Note that the parking lot just outside the castle is your best bet, at 50Kc ($2). There aren't any closer lots, and police are vigilant about ticketing or booting cars parked at the side of the road. The minimum fine is 1,000Kc ($41).

If you don't have a car, the bus is the next-best option. Several buses run daily from Prague's Florenc station and let you off about half a mile from the castle. The 1-hour trip costs 51Kc ($2.10).

It's a little trickier to get here by train since the closest station is in nearby Benesov. The trip takes 50 minutes and costs 64Kc ($2.65) for a one-way, second-class fare. From Benesov you'll have to catch a local bus to the castle for 8Kc (35¢).

Exploring the Castle & Hunting Grounds

Since hunting on the grounds is no longer an option, Tour 1 at Konopiste will have to suffice. You'll know what I mean as soon as you begin the tour: Hundreds of antlers, bears, wild boars, and birds of prey practically jump off the walls, catching unsuspecting sweaters and dazzling children. The main hall is a testament to the archduke, who reportedly bagged some 300,000 animals -- that translates to an incredible 20 animals a day, every day, for 40 years. Only 1% of his total hunting collection is on display, and it still ranks as one of Europe's largest collections. Tour 1 also takes you through the castle's parlors, which have been restored with great attention to detail. Note the handcrafted wooden Italian cabinets with wonderfully detailed inlays and the collection of Meissen porcelain. Tour 1, lasting about 50 minutes, costs 150Kc ($6.25) for adults and 80Kc ($3.35) for children.

Tour 2 (for which you must buy tickets separately) is a little longer at 55 minutes and takes you through the weapons room, the chapel, and the party room, where only men were allowed. This tour is 150Kc ($6.25) for adults and 80Kc ($3.35) for children.

Tour 3 takes you through Ferdinand's private rooms. It lasts only about 10 minutes longer than the other tours and costs 250Kc ($10) for adults and children. While the third tour is interesting, I don't think it's worth the money. Unless you're a die-hard fan of castle rooms, your time is probably better spent roaming the grounds.

After exploring the castle's interior, wander around the manicured gardens where quails, pheasants, and peacocks roam freely. Children enjoy the moat, home to two bears who wander in circles for hours at a time. Down below the castle is a large pond where some people go swimming, though the water quality is questionable; I'd advise against it. Several large, open areas beg for a blanket, some sandwiches, and a nice bottle of red Frankovka wine. Picnicking is allowed, but stock up before coming since there's no place to get groceries near the castle.

The castle is open in April Tuesday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 3pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to noon and 1 to 4pm; May to August Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to noon and 1 to 5pm; September Tuesday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 4pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 5pm; October Tuesday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 3pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 4pm; and November Saturday and Sunday from 9am to noon and 1 to 3pm. The castle grounds are open 24 hours year-round. For more information, visit www.zamek-konopiste.cz or call tel. 317-721-366.

Where to Dine

On the castle grounds, Stará Myslivna (tel. 317-726-272) is a straightforward Czech restaurant; its interior resembles a hunting lodge. The soups are first-rate, and the Czech specialty, svícková na smetane (pork tenderloin in cream sauce), is welcome on a cold day. When the sun is out, sit on the nice terrace around the corner, which usually offers only two meals: pork cutlets and chicken. Both will be cooking on the grill in front of you. Don't bother asking for side orders; they serve only what's on the grill. Main courses are 59Kc to 209Kc ($2.50-$8.70); no credit cards are accepted. Open daily 10:30am to 11pm.

If you're touring late in the afternoon and have a little more time or want a little more formal setting, try Motel Konopiste (tel. 317-722-732), at the south end of the grounds. The menu is similar to the one at Stará Myslivna, but it offers meals of far better quality and a much nicer (though a little too kitschy) atmosphere. Expect to pay between 89Kc and 359Kc ($3.70 and $15) for hearty meals of grilled meats and traditional Czech specialties like goulash. The restaurant is open daily from 6pm to 1am and accepts American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa.