In Two Days

On your second day, explore the varied sights of New Town, Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, and Lesser Town -- what you didn't have time for the day before. Just wander and browse. Throughout Old Town you'll find numerous shops and galleries offering the finest Bohemian crystal, porcelain, and modern artwork, as well as top fashion boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. While the shops aren't that much different from those in other European cities, the setting is.

From Old Town, it's just a short walk across Charles Bridge to Lesser Town. This was once the neighborhood for diplomats, merchants, and those who served the castle, with narrow houses squeezed between palaces and embassies. Finish the day by getting a riverside view of the city and Charles Bridge from Kampa Park.

Start: Metro A, Muzeum.

1. Wenceslas Square

As a trade center of Prague this has been the liveliest and busiest part of the city since the 18th century, witnessing several loud political demonstrations over the years. Here you'll find excellent opportunities for shopping, dining, and day or evening entertainment.

If you're traveling with children, I recommend a visit to the National Museum at the top of the square. If you are an art lover, the Mucha Museum on the Panská street, parallel to this square, might be more compelling.

2. National Museum

This iconic hulk of a building is another example of Czech architecture of the second half of the 19th century. Its hall of fame is devoted to the memory of outstanding Czech personalities throughout history. Expansive collections of minerals and various zoological and paleontological displays are part of the permanent exhibition here.

3. Alfons Mucha Museum

This is a pleasant oasis in a busy neighborhood. You can slow down here and relax by stepping into a world of this famous turn-of-the-20th-century artist and his archetypical Art Nouveau designs.

4. Municipal House

Prague's Art Nouveau jewel! At the end of Na Príkope street, in the middle of the shopping district, this beautiful corner building, built on the site of the former Royal Court, was reconstructed almost a decade ago. It houses the Prague Symphony Orchestra and offers numerous concerts in its Smetana Hall throughout the year.

5. Take a Break --Kavárna Obecní Dum (at the Municipal House)

This is a good time to have coffee or even a little snack. Sit down and witness the unique interior and atmosphere of the Art Nouveau era. Námestí Republiky 5. tel. 222-002-763.

6. Powder Gate

Just next to the Municipal House, on its right side when facing it, you can't miss the Old Town Powder Tower. This is where the Royal Route ends (or starts). If you have enough energy, you can climb up the 186 stairs to have a look at Old Town's rooftops. Note: It is closed in winter.

Continue walking through the pedestrian zone of Na Príkope and 28. ríjna. Turn right onto Perlová street and you'll get to a little square, Uhelný trh. Skorepka street will lead you from there to Jilská. If you get lost around these Old Town winding streets, I'm sure you'll stumble upon a pub or restaurant. I recommend:

7. Take a Break --U Vejvodu

One of the original restaurants of the Pilsner brewery, this spot serves a tasty goulash for 99Kc ($4.10), and even though you probably won't meet many locals here anymore, you'll still have a good Czech pub experience. Jilská 4. tel. 224-219-999.

Make your way through Jilská, Malé námestí, and U Radnice, to Maiselova street.

8. Jewish Museum

In the Jewish quarter of Josefov, you can visit the Jewish Museum with its wide array of religious artifacts, as well as Old Jewish Cemetery, and its clusters of headstones stacked grave upon grave. The adjacent Ceremonial Hall displays heart-wrenching sketches by the children held at the Terezín concentration camp during World War II.

9. Charles Bridge

Try to pace your walk towards Charles Bridge so you stroll across at dusk and witness the unforgettable view of Prague panorama at twilight.

10. Kampa

Kampa is the Lesser Town embankment of the Vltava, with a series of quaint shops and restaurants. You can reach it by taking the stairs down from Charles Bridge (on the left side, before you exit the bridge itself).

11. Take a Break--Kampa Park

For a super riverside view with a fine dining experience go to this Continental/seafood restaurant located at Na Kampe 8b; tel. 296-826-102. If you prefer an international/pizza option, try Hergetova Cihelna, at Cihelná 2b; tel. 296-826-103.