In Three Days

On your third day, after visiting the most important Prague sights, go for a day's excursion to Karlstejn Castle.

Alternatively, if you're staying in Prague, on a warm, sunny day, pack yourself a picnic and stroll over to Petrín Hill, the leafy park where kids will enjoy the tower view and mirrored labyrinth. Before you leave Lesser Town, visit its well-hidden secret, the Vrtbovská garden. Try to work in a cruise on the Vltava or pilot your own rowboat ride in the late afternoon or evening.

Start: Tram no. 12, 22, or 23 to Ujezd. Begin by walking up the Petrín Hill, or take the funicular from Ujezd halfway up to Nebozízek, or all the way up.

1. Petrín Tower

In the morning you'll probably be rested enough to climb the 299 steps up to the top platform of this reduced copy of the Eiffel Tower built in 1891. When the weather cooperates, the bird's-eye view of Prague is worth the hike. There is an elevator, but only seniors over 70 and people with disabilities may use it. Note: It is closed in winter.

2. Labyrinth

This fun house was originally built as a pavilion for the Prague Exhibition in 1891 and later transferred to Petrín. It was fitted with mirrors and made into a maze.

After you find your way out, start looking for a picnic spot. You can have a walk around on the top of the hill or begin your slow descent to the town. There are plenty of benches along the way down.

If you are not ready for a picnic or a walk, use the funicular and go to the midway stop:

3. Take a Break--Nebozízek

This restaurant has a great hillside location, and you probably will forget what you're eating, which is not exceptional anyway, since your attention will be drawn to the view. Petrínské sady 411. tel. 257-315-329.

Take tram no. 12, 22, or 23 from Ujezd to Karmelitská stop.

4. Vrtbovská Zahrada

The entrance to this baroque terraced garden is not well marked, and you won't quite imagine what kind of "backyard" is hidden behind the door at no. 25 on Karmelitská. Note: It is closed in winter.

5. Cruising the Vltava

Cruising upstream and enjoying the sights of Prague as dusk descends is a memorable experience. You'll see it all from a low angle surrounded by reflections on the water, providing a new perspective on the city. Choose the 3-hour cruise, which departs from a port under Cechuv Bridge at 7pm. Buffet dinner, aperitif, and live music are included in the price.