The Performing Arts

Mozart reportedly shocked the Viennese when he once scoffed at his Austrian patrons, claiming that "Praguers understand me." His trips to the outpost in the Austrian Empire became the subject of music folklore. His defiant 1787 premiere of Don Giovanni is the high-water mark in Prague's cultural history -- not that there haven't been fine performances since. Czech composers Dvorák and Smetana each moved the resurgent nation to tears in the 19th century, while Martinu and Janácek ushered in a new industrial-age sound to classical compositions in the first half of the 20th century. You can still hear many works in grand halls throughout Prague; they're worth a visit just to immerse yourself in the grandeur of the setting, let alone the musical accompaniment.

Dressing the Part--Czechs are, generally, a casual live-and-let-live people. Ex-president Havel, who had collected an extensive official wardrobe, is etched in everyone's memory as the dissident playwright wearing old frayed sweaters. Journalists still often show up for news conferences with the president or prime minister in T-shirts. But if you plan on attending the opera or theater, proper evening wear is highly recommended. There may be no worse faux pas in Bohemia than dressing bohemian for a classical performance. For men: a dark suit, or at least a coat and tie. For women: a mid-length dress or pantsuit.

Opera

Even if you're not fond of opera, buying a seat at any of the theaters below is a relatively affordable gamble. Prices range from about 400Kc to 1,200Kc ($16-$50) and are often available up to curtain time.

While performances of Mozart's operas at the Estates' Theater are probably the visitor's best overall choices because of the setting, the National Opera, performing in the gold-crowned 19th-century National Theater, remains the country's best-loved company. Once the fiefdom of heavy-handed Bedrich Smetana, and then home to soprano Emma Destinová, who sang with the great Enrico Caruso, the National Opera has now fallen on harder times. Yet it still occasionally dazzles with Czech works like Smetana's peppy Prodaná nevesta (The Bartered Bride). The choreography is fun for the whole family, and explanations of the plot are provided in English. Once in a while, internationally acclaimed soloists stop by. Seasons tend to concentrate on Czech works, though foreign-composed operas are also scheduled.

The Prague State Opera (Státní opera Praha), in the aging State Opera House near the top of Wenceslas Square, has reorganized after its 1992 split with the National Opera and now concentrates primarily on Italian classics, though a few Czech favorites are included each season. Its staging of Puccini's Tosca is solid but staid and without sufficient emotion at the tragic ending. Verdi's works like La Traviata and Aïda have received mixed reviews -- the performances have had high standards but the sets seem cheap.

The National Opera's large-scale productions are condensed and transported to the cozier confines of Prague's most beautiful concert hall, the Estates' Theater. In addition to the quintessential house performance in original Italian of Don Giovanni, other works by the master staged here are a Czech version of The Magic Flute and The Wedding of Figaro in Italian. At other times, the theater often stages Czech versions of international classic stage plays or chamber ballets.

Classical Music

This small capital boasts three full orchestras, yet all are financially strapped, so the repertoire tends to be conservative, with most concerts providing popular time-tested works. You can get information about all of them at the ticket agencies listed above. Tickets range from 100Kc to 600Kc ($4.15-$25) during the regular season and up to 2,000Kc ($83) for the opening night of the Prague Spring Festival. You can find dozens of concerts by the full orchestras or chamber groups each month, but the pickings are thin in July and August, when the musicians are on their holiday.

Of the city's three orchestras, the Czech Philharmonic is the one that commands a fairly solid international reputation, though it's not considered first-rate. The Philharmonic, which calls the restored Rudolfinum home, went through turmoil in 1996 with the resignation of its first non-Czech musical director/chief conductor, German-born Gerd Albrecht. Despite acute money problems, the Philharmonic improved under Albrecht's demanding baton. Though many critics delighted in saying that Albrecht had tightened the ensemble and imposed disciplined precision, he had his detractors, including high government officials and orchestra members. In a hail of accusations and counteraccusations of Czech and German nationalism (mostly fanned by the press in both countries), Albrecht resigned, claiming that he'd lost his artistic freedom. Vladimír Ashkenazy, a Russian-born pianist who has promised to make the Czech orchestra world-class again, has since replaced him. In 2002 the Philharmonic opened the Prague Spring Music Festival for the first time in several years. In August 2003 the post of chief conductor was taken by Czech-born American Zdenek Mácal, who came back to Prague after leading the New Jersey Symphony Orchestra for several years.

The Prague Symphony Orchestra has positioned itself as the fresher alternative to the Philharmonic, with French Serge Baudo as chief conductor. It focuses more on 20th-century music but has too often fallen back on Bach. Its freshly remodeled home in the Smetana Hall of the Municipal House (Obecní dum) cries out for a new concert approach, as its bold Art Nouveau elegance is more reminiscent of Shostakovich's power than Brahms's delicacy.

The Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra is primarily a studio band but does make regular concert appearances. The group plays sufficiently good versions of classical and contemporary works in the Rudolfinum or Obecní dum.

Two solo Czech violinists to look out for when booking your tickets: the veteran virtuoso Josef Suk, a grandson of Dvorák, who still plays with crisp, if not exact, precision; and his flashier heir apparent, Václav Hudecek, who attacks every stanza with passion and bleeds through his bow.

The city's orchestras all come to life during the international Prague Spring Festival, an annual 3-week series of classical music events that runs from mid-May to early June; the events began as a rallying point for Czech culture in the aftermath of World War II. The country's top performers usually participate in the festival, as well as some noted international stars. Tickets for concerts range from 250Kc to 2,000Kc ($10-$83) and are available in advance from Hellichova 18, Praha 1 (tel. 257-312-547; www.festival.cz).

The newer Prague Autumn International Music Festival, in September, hasn't received as much acclaim as the spring event, but the appearances of the world-known Philharmonic Orchestras gave it a much-needed boost. Contact the office (tel. 222-540-484; www.pragueautumn.cz) or Ticketpro for more information.

Classical Concerts Around Town

When strolling, you'll undoubtedly pick up or be handed lots of leaflets advertising chamber concerts in churches, museums, and other venues. These recitals and choral arrangements usually have programs featuring a classical and baroque repertoire, with an emphasis on pieces by Czech composers. The quality varies, but the results are usually enjoyable. Tickets range from 100Kc to 350Kc ($4.15-$15) and can be purchased at the churches' entrances or sometimes from hotel concierges.

Because of its extravagant beauty, the Chapel of Mirrors, in the Klementinum, Mariánské námestí, Praha 1 (tel. 221-663-111), is a favorite chamber concert venue. Almost every evening a classical concert highlights strings, winds, or the organ. The varied programs often rely on popular works by Handel, Bach, Beethoven, and Prague's beloved Mozart.

The Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel sv. Mikuláse), Staromestské námestí, Praha 1 (tel. 224-190-991), is one of the city's finest baroque gems. Chamber concerts and organ recitals are popular here, and the acoustics are terrific. There's also a lot to look at: rich stucco decoration, sculptures of saints, and a crown crystal chandelier.

The House at the Stone Bell (Dum U kamenného zvonu), Staromestské nám. 13, Praha 1 (tel. 224-827-526), across the square from St. Nicholas, regularly hosts chamber concerts and other small gigs, including operatic arias and duets that are often performed here by soloists of the National Theater and State Opera.

Dance

Of all the musical arts in Prague, dance is the most accessible. From classical ballet to innovative modern dance, there are several options each week that demonstrate an enjoyable mix of grace, beauty, and athleticism. The National Theater Ballet troupe has seen most of its top talent go west since 1989, but it still has a deep roster as the country's premier troupe. Beyond the classical favorites at the venerable National Theater's main stage, the ballet's choreographer, Libor Vaculík, has come up with dance twists on films like Some Like It Hot and Psycho next door at the modern, comfortable theater in the round, Nová scéna. Vaculík's works are popular, making this one of the most financially secure dance companies in Eastern Europe. Tickets are 200Kc to 550Kc ($8.30-$23); call tel. 224-933-782 for information.

The Prague Chamber Ballet has recently been playing intimate dates at the Estates' Theater, giving the audience the chance to see modern and classical dance in a theater primarily designed for opera. The choreographer's fresh takes on Czech spiritual folk music, Latin or Slavic beats, and provocative religious themes are set to recorded music. But the sound system is adequate and the experience above average. Check the Prague Post to see what selections are playing.

Theatre

Theater has a long tradition in Czech life. Its enormous influence was reconfirmed during the revolutionary events of 1989, when theaters became the focal points and the strategy rooms for the opposition.

Most of the city's theater offerings are in Czech, but a few English-language expatriate troupes have taken root and stage performances whenever they are ready -- or not -- at various locations. Check the Prague Post (www.praguepost.com) for the latest listings.

Czech productions by local and translated authors are staged almost every night. The most highly respected theaters are the gorgeous Vinohrady Theater (Divadlo na Vinohradech), námestí Míru 7, Praha 2 (tel. 224-257-601; www.dnv-praha.cz), the former workplace of ex-president Havel's wife, Dagmar, who made a final performance as Queen Kristina soon after becoming first lady. The Theater on the Balustrade (Divadlo Na Zábradlí), Anenské nám. 5, Praha 1 (tel. 222-868-868; www.nazabradli.cz), is the place where Havel got his start as a playwright. Tickets, usually costing between 90Kc and 200Kc ($3.75-$8.30), should be bought in advance. Simultaneous translation into English is often offered through earphones provided by the theaters, but the translator reads all parts from a script, usually without much dramatic verve. Ask when booking if translation is offered.