The Club & Music Scene

The Velvet Revolution had its roots in the underground rock clubs that kept the braver Czech sonic youth tuned in to something more than the monotones of the Party during the gray 1970s and 1980s period known as Normalization. The Communists' persecution of the garage band Plastic People of the Universe, named for a Frank Zappa refrain, motivated playwright Václav Havel and his friends to keep the human rights heat on the Politburo. As president, Havel paid homage to rock's part in the revolution and kept company with the likes of Zappa, Springsteen, Dylan, and the Stones -- all of whom paid tribute to him as "the rock-'n'-roll president."

Almost universally, the amps in clubs are turned up to absurd distortion. But while most wannabe bands playing Prague today lack the political edge of the prerevolution days, some have kept their unique Slavic passion without being overtaken by the urge to sound like Soundgarden. Throughout the rock clubs on any given night you might run into the acerbic pounding of Psí vojáci (Dog Soldiers), the no-holds-barred horns of Laura a její tygri (Laura and Her Tigers), or bohemian Dan Bárta's Illustratosphere.

Prague's Mysterious Nights

If you've never been here, the otherwise uninspired film Kafka with Jeremy Irons will give you a fine sense of the dark mystery trapped in the shadows cast over the palace walls and cobblestone streets throughout Old Town and Malá Strana. You'll never forget a slow stroll across Charles Bridge, with its dim lampposts (gas lamps are just being reinstalled here) cutting eerie silhouettes from the attendant statues. The artfully lit facades of Prague Castle hover above as if the whole massive complex is floating in the darkness. The domes and spires of the skyline leading up to Hradcany have more varied textures and contours than a Dutch master could ever have dreamed of painting. Students howling with a guitar, or a single violinist playing his heart out for a few koruny in his hat, create the bridge's ambient sound.

Evenings are also a fine time to walk through the castle courtyards; as the crowds disperse, a quiet solemnity falls over the city. From high atop the castle hill, you can see Prague sparkling below.

Across the river, the brightly lit belfries of Týn Church cast a spine-tingling glow on the rest of Old Town Square, and the mellow lamps around the Estates' Theater provide light for a memorable walk home after a performance.

Jazz

While Dixieland swing was huge in Prague during the First Republic, urban jazz really made its mark here during the 1960s, when those testing the Communist authority flocked to the smoky caves and wore dark glasses. The chubby Czech songstress Vlasta Pruchová grabbed a few hints from Ella Fitzgerald with her throaty voice and set the standard for Czech be-bop wannabes in the postwar period leading up to the Prague Spring. After defecting, her son Jan Hammer made it big in the United States with his computerized scores, among which is the theme for Miami Vice.

Luckily, most of Prague's ensembles follow Vlasta's lead and not Jan's. There are several good venues for a cool evening with a traditional upright bass, piano, sax, and drum group or occasional shots of fusion and acid jazz. The most publicized gig was at the Reduta Jazz Club, where Bill Clinton played "Summertime" and "My Funny Valentine" for then-President Havel and Madeleine Albright during his state visit.

Look for bookings with Karel Ruzicka or Stepán Markovic quartets, which are solid and with surprising doses of soul.

U Maleho Glena, also offers jazz, fusion, and sometimes funk on most nights in its cellar.

Gay & Lesbian Clubs

Prague's small gay and lesbian community is growing in its openness and choices for nightclubs and entertainment. Visit http://prague.gayguide.net for listings and events.