Cheap Eats

The Czech-style delicatessen Lahudky Zlatý Kríz, Jungmannovo nám. 19 (entrance from Jungmannova 34), Prague 1 (tel. 221-191-801), offers the typical Czech snack food chlebícky -- a slice of white bread with ham or salami and cheese or potato salad. You have to eat standing up, but prices are pure Czech. Or take it with you and go eat in the cozy garden behind the corner of this building (enter from the square). It's open Monday to Friday from 6:30am to 7pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm. No credit cards are accepted.

Vegetarians will like Country Life, Melantrichova 15, Prague 1 (tel. 224-213-373), a health-food store run by the Seventh-Day Adventists; it offers a strictly meatless menu to go. You'll find tofu, tomato, cucumber, and shredded cabbage salads; zesty wheat-bread pizzas topped with red pepper, garlic, and onions; and vegetable burgers on multigrain buns with garlic-yogurt dressing. Selections are 30Kc to 90Kc. It's open Monday to Thursday from 9am to 8:30pm, Friday 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 11am to 8:30pm. No credit cards are accepted.

At Old Town's Cream & Dream, Husova 12, Prague 1 (tel. 224-211-035), you will definitely revive your mind and body after a tiring tour of the city, or just please your sweet tooth. The gelato here is world-class quality, and you will not get better ice cream in Prague, or perhaps even in Italy. This creamery, cafe, and chocolate shop is open daily 9am until midnight.

If you are visiting Prague's Vinohrady quarter, you can't avoid its main square, Námestí Míru, with St. Ludmila's Church. On the right side of the church, when facing it, near the metro entrance, there is usually a stand with possibly the best hot dog in Prague. The dog is topped with ketchup or two kinds of tasty Czech mustard and served on a fresh white roll. It costs 20Kc and it is available Monday to Friday from 9:30am until the supply for that day runs out.