When to Go

The best way to stay on top of the schedule, which is expected to be revised throughout the year, is to tap into the Prague Information Service (PIS) website at www.pis.cz or www.prague-info.cz, where all events are updated in English and Czech.

January

Anniversary of Jan Palach's Death. On January 19, 1969, 21-year-old philosophy student Jan Palach set fire to himself on Wenceslas Square as a protest against the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia. He died a few days later and became a symbol for dissidents. His death is commemorated annually at a Memorial to the Victims of Communism on Wenceslas Square and at Olsany Cemetery, where he's buried. January 19.

March

Febiofest 2004. This is one of the largest noncompetitive film and video festivals in central Europe. More than 500 movies from 50 countries will be presented in 15 cinemas in Prague. You will find more information on www.febiofest.cz or by calling tel. 221-101-111. Late March.

Prague City of Music Festival. Contemporary and classical concerts are performed at this festival. For details, contact Cedok, Na Príkope 18, Praha 1 (tel. 224-197-632); or try almost any information/travel agency in Prague. Throughout the month.

April

Witches' Night. This annual bucolic ritual is meant to bring luck to the planting season. Bonfires are lit and an effigy of an old hag is thrown on the flames. Prague largely ignores this event, but blazes dot the countryside beginning at twilight. April 30.

May

Karlovy Vary Blessing of the Waters. One of Europe's oldest and most famous spas (the original Carlsbad) kicks off its high season with a traditional blessing of its 12 hot springs, complete with a coronation and a reenactment of the town's founding by Charles IV. The spa zone is filled with medieval sights and sounds. For details, contact the Info Centrum in Karlovy Vary (tel. 353-224-097) or go to www.karlovyvary.cz. First weekend in May.

Prague International Marathon. Annual meeting of runners from all over the world. Go to www.pim.cz to find out more. Mid- to late May.

Prague Spring Music Festival. This world-famous 3-week series of classical music and dance performances begins with the anniversary of Bedrich Smetana's death on May 12. An exclusive opening night tradition is the performance of Smetana's symphonic poem, Má Vlast (My Country), attended by the president. Throughout the fest, symphony, opera, and chamber performances bring some of the world's best talent to Prague. Concert tickets are usually 250Kc to 2,000Kc ($10-$83) and are available in advance (beginning in Jan) from Hellichova 18, Praha 1 (tel. 257-312-547; www.festival.cz). Mid-May to early June.

June

Tanec Praha (Dance Prague). This year will be the 18th anniversary of this international festival. In theaters around the city, you can find performances of artistic dance. For more information, go to www.tanecpha.cz or call tel. 224-817-886. Throughout the month.

Slavnost Petilisté Ruze (Festival of the Five-Petaled Rose). Held annually to mark the summer solstice, the festival gives residents of Ceský Krumlov the excuse to dress up in Renaissance costumes and parade through the streets. Afterward, the streets become a stage with plays, chess games with people dressed as pieces, music, and more. For details, contact the town's information center at tel. 380-704-621 or go to www.ckrumlov.cz. Third weekend in June.

July

Karlovy Vary International Film Festival. This annual 10-day event, being held for the 41st year, predates Communism and has regained its "A" rating from the international body governing film festivals. That puts it in the same league with Cannes and Venice, though much further down the standings since it doesn't yet have the star-drawing power of the more glittery stops. A blanket ticket policy putting 1-day advance-sell seats at a buck each means that screenings are mostly filled with students willing to stand in line the day before. For more information check www.iffkv.cz. Late June to early July.

August

Chopin Festival. Karlovy Vary's younger and smaller sister spa town of Mariánské Lázne (Marienbad) honors one of its past guests, Chopin, with an annual 8- to 10-day festival. Concerts and recitals, mostly for piano, are held throughout the town. For details or tickets, contact Mestské InfoCentrum at tel. 354-622-474. Late August.

September

Prague Autumn International Music Festival. This festival features local orchestras from around the country and some international guests. Most concerts are at the Rudolfinum. You can buy tickets in advance through the Festival Office (tel. 22-540-484; www.pragueautumn.cz) or call Ticketpro at tel. 296-333-333. Late September.

Moravian Autumn International Music Festival in Brno. This annual event, now in its 41st year, is dedicated to symphonic and chamber musical works. Tickets are available at the Informacní stredisko tel. 542-211-090, or go to www.mhf-brno.cz for more info. Late September, beginning of October.

October

International Jazz Festival. This 30-year-old celebration of jazz music is held in several venues in the town. For more details call Pragokoncert, Peckova 12, Praha 8 (tel. 224-817-272), or call the Ticketpro office (tel. 296-333-333). Last week in October.

Renaissance Days at Krivoklát Castle. Amid the cold winds and blazing fall colors in the Berounka valley, this Gothic relic of famous Czech lore gets decked out in all the trappings of the 14th and 15th centuries. With merchants, minstrels, and merrymakers filling the fortress grounds, this time-warp event can be a lot of fun. For information, call tel. 313-558-120 or check www.krivoklat.cz. Last weekend in October.

November

Anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. The clash between students and police on Národní Street on November 17, 1989, set off the chain of events that eventually brought down the Communist government (many students were injured but none died). Czechs refer to the period since as the Post-November Era, though few commemorate the event, which was recently declared a national holiday. The president usually lays a wreath at the small bronze "free hands" monument hanging on a wall near Národní trída 20. November 17.

December

Christmas in Prague. This is a festive time in Prague. St. Mikulás (Nicholas), the Czech version of Santa Claus but dressed in a white bishop's costume, kicks off the season on December 5 by giving sweets to well-behaved children and coal and potatoes to rowdy ones. Just before Christmas, large barrels of live carp are brought into the city, where the fish are clubbed to death and gutted on demand for families to take home for the traditional Christmas meal. 'Tis the season. December 5 to 26.

New Year's Eve. Unless you are looking for trouble or enjoy dodging missiles, you should stay well away from the center of Prague on New Year's Eve. On the night known as Silvester, Old Town Square and Charles Bridge become battle zones with indiscriminately fired bottle rockets and other fireworks causing random and often serious injuries. Each year has gotten worse. Best to stay put at one of the many hotel or restaurant galas being offered on that night. December 31.