U modré kachnicky

The "Blue Duckling," on a narrow Malá Strana street, comes close to refining standard Czech dishes into true Bohemian haute cuisine. This series of small dining rooms with vaulted ceilings and playfully frescoed walls is packed with antique furniture and pastel-flowered linen upholstery. The menu is loaded with an array of wild game and quirky spins on Czech village favorites. Starters include lightly spiced venison pâté and duck liver on toast. You can choose from six different duck main courses. Finally, the ubiquitous palacinky crepes are thin and tender and filled with fruit, nuts, and chocolate. There is an even more popular sister to the first "kachnicka," at Michalská 16, Prague 1 (tel. 224-213-418), with a similar menu and prices. Reservations are recommended (daily 11:30am-11:30pm; metro: Mustek).

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