La Provence

Frommer's Review

A French country wine cellar meets urban kitsch in this loud subterranean haunt. Tables have been squeezed in, making a once-comfortable setting a little too intimate. Still, the din of the crowd allows you to discuss private matters without too much eavesdropping. A lunch choice of the local banking crowd, La Provence offers a wide array of French Provencal dishes, and the spiciest scampi in Prague. Escargots, easily accessible on a tray in drawn butter, are garlicky and surprisingly good. Salads, from Caesar to Niçoise, are large and fresh, with tangy niva (a kind of Czech blue cheese) and croutons; they come with fresh French bread and garlic butter. Weekends often attract drag queens from the Banana Café upstairs for a funky lip-synch floor show, which I doubt the bankers would appreciate at lunch.

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