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At this fishmonger around the corner from his dissident-era apartment, Havel spent hours debating politics over a plate of trout and a bottle of tart Czech Frankovka wine. After the revolution, the back room became a shrine to visiting dignitaries and rock stars, who were treated to a down-market "state dinner" and then signed the wall in a bizarre piece of presidential protocol. It's still open and still a decent place to get a fish dinner. Among the famous autographs on the wall is Mick Jagger's, one of Havel's favorite rockers.