For an evening at one of Tuscany's, and even Italy's, most innovative theaters, pick up a brochure at the tourist office for the Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59 (tel. 0574-608-501 for tickets; www.metastasio.it). The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10am to 1pm and 3:30 to 7pm. You can also visit Dischi Niccoli at Via Cairoli 19 (tel. 0574-27-890). The theater dates from 1830 and puts on contemporary and classic plays and music concerts ranging from classical orchestral pieces to modern jazz acts.