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Primosten is actually an island, but you hardly notice that because it is linked to the mainland by a tiny causeway built in the 16th century. What you do notice about this island shaped like a fish is the laid-back atmosphere, impossibly clear turquoise water, and excellent beaches backed by pine trees. Primosten truly has something for everyone, with its block of clay tennis courts, watersports, and 15th-century church (rebuilt in the 18th c.) overlooking the sea from its hilltop perch. Primosten is just 19km (12 miles) south of Sibenik and 29km (18 miles) west of Trogir, a kind of middle ground for tourists who want to take a beach break from tracing Croatian history, if only for a day.