Active Pursuits

Prince Edward Island doesn't have any wilderness or even much wildness to speak of. It's all about cultivated landscapes that have long ago been tamed by farmers. That doesn't mean you can't find outdoor adventure.

Here are some places to start.

Bicycling

There's perhaps no finer destination in Atlantic Canada for relaxed road biking than Prince Edward Island. The modest size of the island, the gentleness of the hills (the island's high point is just 142m/465 ft.), and the loveliness of the landscapes all conspire to provide a memorable biking trip. Although you won't find much rugged mountain biking here, you will find a surfeit of idyllic excursions, especially in the northern and eastern portions of the island. Avoid the Trans-Canada Highway on the south coast and main arterials like Route 2, and you'll find superb biking throughout the secondary road network.

The main off-road bike trail is the Confederation Trail. Eventually, the trail will cover some 350km (215 miles) along the old path of the ill-fated provincial railway from Tignish to Souris.

At present, about half the trail has been completed, mostly in Prince and Kings Counties; Queens County is still largely under development. The pathway is covered mostly in rolled stone dust, which makes for good travel with a mountain bike or hybrid. Services are slowly developing along the route, with bike rentals and inns cropping up. Ask at the local tourist bureaus for updated information on completed segments. An excellent place to base for exploring the trail is the Trailside Café in Mount Stewart, where several spurs of the trail converge. The cafe can arrange for return shuttles if you'd prefer one-way cycling.

MacQueen's Island Tours & Bike Shop (tel. 800/969-2822 or 902/368-2453), at 430 Queen St. in Charlottetown, organizes bicycle tour packages, with prices including bike rentals, accommodations, route cards, maps, luggage transfers, and emergency road repair service. Seven-night tours start at C$1,300 (US$1,040) double occupancy. Rentals are also available for C$20 (US$16) and up per day, C$125 (US$100) and up per week. MacQueen's can be reached via e-mail at biketour@macqueens.com.

For rentals and repairs, you might also try Cycle Smooth (tel. 800/310-6550 or 902/566-5530) at 172 Prince St. in Charlottetown. Rentals include helmet, water bottle, and a lock and cost C$25 (US$18) per day.

Fishing

For a taste of deep-sea fishing, head to the north coast, where you'll find plenty of outfitters happy to take you out on the big swells. The greatest concentrations of services are at North Rustico and Covehead Bay; see the "Queens County" section, below. Rates are quite reasonable, generally about C$20 (US$16) for 3 hours or so.

Trout fishing holes attract inland anglers, although, as always, the best spots are a matter of local knowledge. A good place to start your inquiries is at Island Rods and Flies, 18 Birch Hill Dr., Charlottetown (tel. 902/566-4157), which specializes in fly-fishing equipment. Information on required fishing licenses can be had from any visitor information center, or by contacting the Department of Fisheries, Aquaculture, and Environment, P.O. Box 2000, Charlottetown, PEI C1A 7N8 (tel. 902/368-4820; www.gov.pe.ca/af).

Golf

PEI's reputation for golf has soared in the last few years. That's due in part to a slew of new and expanded courses and in part because the greens fees haven't followed the same sharply upward trajectory that has afflicted many courses in the United States. As a result, you can golf along the ocean at fees just a fraction of what you'd expect in similarly dramatic settings elsewhere. One of the best-regarded courses is the Links at Crowbush Cove (tel. 800/235-8909 or 902/961-7300). Sand dunes and persistent winds off the gulf add to the challenge at this relatively young course, which is on the northeastern coast. Another perennial favorite is the Brudenell River Golf Course (tel. 800/235-8909 or 902/652-8965) near Montague along the eastern shore; in the late 1990s the course added a second 18-holer, this designed by Michael Hurdzan, who has also created well-regarded courses in Toronto and Vancouver. As part of its expansion, the course also launched the Canadian Golf Academy (tel. 888/698-4653). Programs take place on the two golf courses as well as at the 475-yard double-ended driving range, and on the 1.6 hectare (4 acres) of tee decks.

Golf PEI publishes a booklet outlining the essentials of the 25 island courses. Request a copy from island information centers or from the provincial tourist information number (tel. 902/368-4653), or write 565 N. River Rd., Charlottetown, PEI C1E 1J7. The information is also available online at www.golfpei.com.

Sea Kayaking

PEI has 1,260km (783 miles) of attractive coastline and relatively warm water, making for excellent sea kayaking.

Paddlers can vary the scene from broad tidal inlets ringed with marsh to rusty-red coastline topped with swaying waves of marran grass. Outside Expeditions (tel. 800/207-3899 or 902/963-3366; www.getoutside.com) hosts half-day excursions daily at the national park for C$50 to C$55 (US$40-US$44). More ambitious paddlers can sign up for 1- to 7-day trips departing throughout the summer. Excursions are also available from Peake's Wharf in Charlottetown and at Brudenell River Provincial Park in eastern PEI.

Swimming

Among PEI's chief attractions are its red sand beaches. You'll find them all around the island, tucked in among dunes and crumbling cliffs. Thanks to the moderating influence of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the water temperature is more humane here than elsewhere in Atlantic Canada, and it usually doesn't result in unbridled shrieking among bathers. The most popular beaches are at Prince Edward Island National Park along the north coast, but you can easily find other beaches with great swimming.

Among my favorites: Cedar Dunes Provincial Park on the southwest coast, Red Point Provincial Park on the northeast coast, and Panmure Island Provincial Park on the southeast coast.