What's New

The area from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the West to the string of Riviera towns in the East is the most dynamic region of France. It is also the most fashionable, and trends change rapidly. Here is a preview of some of the major changes occurring in this sunny region.

Toulouse -- For the frugal traveler stopping over in the city of Toulouse, the St. Claire Hotel, 29 place Nicolas Bachelier (tel. 05-34-40-58-88; www.stclairehotel.fr), is a government-rated two-star hotel that has undergone a complete renovation. Today it is one of the best value hotels of Toulouse, lying in the heart of the city. The hotel offers personalized service, provides a high level of comfort, is decorated in a homelike fashion, and is immaculately kept.

Arles -- In ancient Arles, Hotel de l'Amphithéatre, 5-7 rue Diderot (tel. 04-90-96-10-30; www.hotelamphitheatre.fr), completed renovations in 2007 and is now an oasis for the budget traveler. The antique atmosphere of the building, dating from the 17th century, has been retained. Bright fabrics, new furniture, and modern fittings have made this once-tired address fresh and new again.

Marseille -- The big news coming out of Marseille is the restoration of Hôtel Le Corbusier, La Cité Radieuse, 280 bd. Michelot (tel. 04-91-16-78-00; www.hotellecorbusier.com). The original building was designed in 1952 by Le Corbusier himself, 2km (1 1/4 miles) south of Marseille. A husband-and-wife team has invested money and time into returning the hotel to the original, spartan, functional design that Le Corbusier intended. Even so, this is not an address for everyone but a curiosity for architectural buffs and others.

St-Tropez -- In this chic resort, two ex-pat Brits, John and Pauline Larkin, have opened a boutique hotel: Pastis Hotel-St-Tropez, 61 av. du Général Leclerc (tel. 04-98-12-56-60; www.pastis-st-tropez.com). Best-selling author Peter Mayle is a frequent visitor. A portside Provençal house has been renovated and transformed into this intimate enclave of comfort, with an eclectic decor that includes everything from framed albums of the Sex Pistols to Chinese armoires.

St-Raphaël -- In the village of Boulouris, right outside St-Raphaël, the famous residence of the late author W. Somerset Maugham has been turned into a chic little B&B, one of the most elegant in the Western Riviera. Villa Mauresque, 1792 route de la Corniche, Boulouris (tel. 94-94-83-02-42; www.villa-mauresque.com), once hosted some of the most famous movie stars and other celebrities in the world. Today, this neo-Moorish seaside oasis offers individually designed bedrooms in two villas to the public at large. This luxurious and historic retreat lies about a 30-minute drive from either Cannes or St-Tropez.

Cagnes-Sur-Mer -- In this Riviera town long beloved by artists such as Renoir and Modigliani, Villa Estelle, 5 montée de la Bourgade (tel. 04-92-02-89-83; www.villa-estelle.com), has opened five bedrooms in a restored villa dating from the 14th century. The small hotel opens onto a spacious terrace with Florentine-inspired columns set in a landscaped Mediterranean garden with terraces. Bedrooms are decorated with antiques combined with modern works of art.

St-Paul-de-Vence -- An oasis of tranquillity, La Grande Bastide, Route de la Colle (tel. 04-93-32-50-30; www.la-grande-bastide.com), is a restored 18th-century country building that has been turned into a small hotel with homelike charm. Bedrooms are decorated in an authentic Provençal style, and panoramic vistas can be enjoyed from the hotel's terraces. Prices are affordable, too.

Outside of town, a French-American couple has opened Hôtel Marc Hély, 535 rte. de Cagnes, La Colle sur Loup (tel. 04-93-22-93-84; www.hotel-marc-hely.com), a 12-room hotel de charme opening onto a panoramic view of St-Paul. Set in landscaped gardens with a pool, it offers tastefully furnished bedrooms opening onto a private patio or balcony.

Nice -- Travelers are discovering the restored and most affordable Hotel Dante, 12 rue Andrioli (tel. 04-93-86-81-00; www.med-hotel.dr/hoteldanet-nice.com), lying a short walk from the promenade des Anglais. The hotel's English-speaking personnel are among the most hospitable in town, and the bedrooms are comfortably and attractively furnished; some of the units have small kitchens.

Acceptable hotels in the old town of Nice are hard to find, but that situation changed with the restoration of Villa La Tour, 4 rue de la Tour (tel. 04-93-80-08-15; www.villa-la-tour.com), near the famous Flower Market. This former 18th-century convent has been turned into one of the most attractive and atmospheric small hotels in Old Nice, with a little roof garden opening onto panoramic views.

Villefranche-Sur-Mer -- An English couple has restored a long-neglected property in this seaside town and turned it into the nine-room Villa Vauban, 11 av. Général de Gaulle (tel. 04-93-55-94-51; www.hotelvillavauban.com). Adjacent to the old citadel, the hotel stands in a secluded garden, offering attractively furnished bedrooms in the older main building or in a more modern wing.

Monaco -- For the first time in 75 years, the Societé des Bains de Mer has opened another luxury hotel to take its place along with the swanky Paris and Hermitage properties. It's the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort, 40 av. Princesse Grace (tel. 98-06-02-00; www.montecarlobay.com). Set in 4 hectares (10 acres) of gardens by the sea, this sumptuous retreat comes complete with a luxurious spa. Its waterfalls, panoramic terraces, spacious bedrooms, and lavish use of exotic woods and sumptuous marbles make this unlike anything this little principality has seen in years.

The new Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo in the Hotel Metropole, 4 av. Madone (tel. 93-25-24-44), serves the best cuisine in Monaco. Even Prince Albert dines here with his lady du jour. The modern French cuisine is inspired, based on only the finest of ingredients served in recipes with culinary flair created by Monsieur Robuchon himself.