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Best Dining Bets
Emile (Toulouse, Languedoc-Roussillon; tel. 05-61-21-05-56; www.restaurant-emile.com): On one of the most beautiful old squares of Toulouse, this restaurant serves one of the finest regional cuisines in the area, all at an affordable price. The cassoulet Toulousain is hailed as the town's best. The flower-filled terrace is a magnet in the summer.
Le Bistro Latin (Aix-en-Provence, Provence; tel. 04-42-38-22-88): The economic virtue of this Provençal restaurant lies in its fixed-price menus, whose composition is something of an art form. The prices are low, the flavors are sensational, and hints of Italian zest pop up frequently in such dishes as risotto with scampi.
La Fourchette (Avignon, Provence; tel. 04-90-85-20-93): Creative cooking at modern prices is presented at this authentic bistro in the town center. Long known for its value and good food, the airy dining rooms here tempt you with platter after platter, everything from monkfish stew with endive to fresh sardines flavored with citrus.
Le Safari (Nice, Eastern Riviera; tel. 04-93-80-18-44): This ever-popular, ever-crowded brasserie overlooking the cours Saleya market soaks up every ray of Riviera sun. Dressed in jeans, waiters hurry back and forth, serving habitués and visitors alike on the sprawling terrace. This place makes one of the best salad Niçoise concoctions in town, as well as a drop-dead spring lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven.
The Best Luxury Restaurants
Le Languedoc (Carcassonne, Languedoc-Roussillon; tel. 04-68-25-22-17): Acclaimed chef Didier Faugeras is the creative force behind this century-old dining room that serves some of the finest regional specialties in the area. Its most famous dish is cassoulet au confit de canard, a casserole with duck meat cooked in its own fat.
Le Jardin des Sens (Montpellier, Languedoc-Roussillon; tel. 04-99-58-38-38; www.jardinessens.com): Twins Laurent and Jacques Pourcel have set off a culinary storm in Montpellier. Michelin has bestowed two stars on them, the same rating it gives to Alain Ducasse at his Monaco citadel. Postnouvelle reigns supreme, and both men know how to turn the bounty of Languedoc into meals sublime in flavor and texture. Though inspired by other chefs, they now feel free to let their imaginations roam. The results are often stunning, like the fricassee of langoustines and lamb sweetbreads.
Christian Etienne (Avignon, Provence; tel. 04-90-86-16-50; www.christian-etienne.fr): In a house as old as the nearby papal palace, Etienne reigns as Avignon's culinary star. A chef of imagination and discretion, he has a magical hand, reinterpreting and improving French cuisine. He keeps a short menu so that he can give special care and attention to each dish. His menu is often themed -- one might be devoted to the tomato. Save room for his chocolate/pine-nut cake, something of a local legend.
Oustau de Beaumanière (Les Baux, Provence; tel. 04-90-54-33-07; www.oustaudebaumaniere.com): This Relais & Châteaux occupies an old Provençal farmhouse. Founded in 1945 by the late Raymond Thuilier, the hotel's restaurant was once touted as France's greatest. It might long ago have lost that lofty position, but it continues to tantalize today's palates. Thuilier's heirs carry on admirably as they reinvent and reinterpret some of the great Provençal recipes. At the foot of a cliff, you dine in Renaissance charm, enjoying often flawless meals from the bounty of Provence.
Le Chantecler (Nice, Eastern Riviera; tel. 04-93-16-64-00): The most prestigious restaurant in Nice, and the most intensely cultivated, Chantecler is currently in the hands of Alain Llorca, who's attracting the area's demanding gourmets and gourmands. You dine in a monument to turn-of-the-20th-century extravagance, and the menu is attuned to the seasons and to quality ingredients. A true taste of the country is evident in the fresh asparagus, black truffles, sun-dried tomatoes, and beignets of fresh vegetables -- all deftly handled by a chef on the rise.
Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo (Monte Carlo, Monaco; tel. 93-25-24-44): Critics hail Robuchon as the greatest chef in France. Emerging from retirement, he's become a star-studded culinary attraction in this chic principality, where his take on modern French cuisine is second to none. He seasons his delectable platters with "the perfumes of the Mediterranean."
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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