Getting Around

The most charming Provençal villages and best country hotels always seem to lie away from the main cities and train stations. Renting a car is usually the best way to travel once you get to the south of France, especially if you plan to explore in-depth and not stick to the standard route along the coast.

The south of France also has one of the most reliable bus and rail transportation systems in Europe. Trains connect all the major cities and towns, such as Nice and Avignon. Where the train leaves off, you can most often rely on local bus service.

By Bus

While the trains are faster and more efficient if you are traveling between major cities, both the towns and villages of Languedoc and Provence, including the French Riviera, are linked by frequent bus service. You can use the network of buses that link the villages and hamlets with each other and the major cities to get off the beaten path.

Plan to take advantage of the bus services from Monday to Saturday when they run frequently; very few buses run on Sunday.

Sodetrav (tel. 08-25-00-06-50 or 04-94-12-55-12; www.sodetrav.fr) has some of the best bus routes, and is especially strong in the western Riviera, taking in stopovers at such destinations as St-Raphaël, St-Tropez, Arles, Grasse, Avignon, Marseille, Nimes, and Hyeres. One of its most popular routes is the run between Toulon and St-Tropez, with 20 buses daily.

By Car

Driving time in Europe is largely a matter of conjecture, urgency, and how much sightseeing you do along the way. The driving time from Marseille to Paris is a matter of national pride, and tall tales abound about how rapidly the French can do it. With the accelerator pressed to the floor, you might conceivably make it in 7 hours, but we always make a 2-day journey of it.

Car Rentals -- To rent a car, you'll need to present a passport, a driver's license, and a credit card. You'll also have to meet the minimum-age requirement of the company. (For the least expensive cars, this is 21 at Hertz, 23 at Avis, and 25 at Budget. More expensive cars might require that you be at least 25.) It usually isn't obligatory within France, but certain companies have at times asked for the presentation of an International Driver's License, even though this is becoming increasingly superfluous in western Europe.

Note: The best deal is usually a weekly rental with unlimited mileage. All car-rental bills in France are subject to a 19.6% government tax. The rental company won't usually mind if you drive your car into, say, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, or Spain.

Unless it's factored into the rental agreement, an optional collision-damage waiver (CDW) carries an extra charge of 13€ to 21€ ($17-$27) per day for the least expensive car. Buying this usually eliminates all but $250 of your responsibility in the event of accidental damage to the car. Because most newcomers aren't familiar with local driving customs and conditions, we recommend you buy the CDW, though you should check with your credit card company first to see if it will cover this automatically when you rent with its card. (It might cover damage but not liability, so make sure you understand this clearly.) At some companies, the CDW won't protect you against theft, so if this is the case, ask about buying extra theft protection. This cost is 10€ ($13) extra per day.

Automatic transmission is considered a luxury in Europe, so if you want it, you'll have to pay dearly.

For rentals of more than 7 days, in most cases cars can be picked up in one French city and dropped off in another, but there are additional charges. Still, Budget's rates are among the most competitive, and its cars are well maintained. Budget (www.budget.com) has numerous locations in southern France, including those in Avignon at the airport tel. 04-90-87-17-75; in Marseille at the airport tel. 04-42-14-24-55, at 40 bd. De Plombières (tel. 04-91-64-40-03); in Nice at the airport (tel. 04-93-21-36-50); and in Toulouse at the airport (tel. 05-61-71-85-80).

Hertz (www.hertz.com) is also well represented, with offices in Avignon at the airport (tel. 04-90-84-19-50) and at the train station (tel. 04-32-74-62-80); in Marseille at the airport (tel. 08-25-09-13-13) and at 15 bd. Maurice-Bourdet (tel. 04-91-14-04-24); in Montpellier at the airport (tel. 04-67-20-04-64); in Nice at the airport (tel. 08-25-34-23-43); and in Toulouse at the airport (tel. 05-61-71-27-09) and at the rail station (tel. 05-62-73-39-47). When making inquiries, be sure to ask about promotional discounts.

Avis (www.avis.com) has offices in Avignon at the airport (tel. 04-90-87-17-75) and at the railway station (tel. 04-90-27-96-10); in Marseille at the airport (tel. 04-42-14-21-67) and at 267 bd. National (tel. 04-91-50-70-11); in Montpellier at the airport (tel. 04-67-20-14-95) and at the Railway Station (tel. 04-67-92-92-00); in Nice at the airport (tel. 04-93-21-36-33) and at place Massena, 2 av. des Phocéens (tel. 04-93-80-63-52); and in Toulouse at the airport (tel. 05-34-60-46-50) and at the train station (tel. 05-61-62-50-40).

National (www.nationalcar.com) is represented in France by Europcar, with locations in Avignon at the train station (tel. 04-90-27-30-07); in Marseille at the airport (tel. 04-42-14-24-90) and at the St-Charles train station, 96 bd. Rabatau (tel. 04-91-83-05-05); in Montpellier at the airport (tel. 04-67-15-13-47); in Nice at the airport (tel. 04-93-21-80-90); and in Toulouse at the airport (tel. 05-61-30-00-01). You can rent a car on the spot at any of these offices, but lower rates are available by making advance reservations from North America.

Two United States-based agencies that don't have France offices but act as booking agents for France-based agencies are Kemwel Drive Group (tel. 877/820-0668 or 207/842-2285; www.kemwel.com) and Auto Europe (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com). These can make bookings in the United States only, so call before your trip.

Gasoline -- Known in France as essence, gas is expensive for those accustomed to North American prices. All but the least expensive cars usually require an octane rating that the French classify as essence super, the most expensive variety. Depending on your car, you'll need either leaded (avec plomb) or unleaded (sans plomb).

Beware the mixture of gasoline and oil called mélange or gasoil sold in some rural communities; this mixture is for very old two-cycle engines.

Note: Sometimes you can drive for miles in rural France without encountering a gas station, so don't let your tank get dangerously low.

Driving Rules -- Everyone in the car, in both the front and the back seats, must wear seat belts. Children under 12 must ride in the back seat. Drivers are supposed to yield to the car on their right, except where signs indicate otherwise, as at traffic circles.

If you violate the speed limit, expect a big fine. Those limits are about 130kmph (81 mph) on expressways, about 100kmph (62 mph) on major national highways, and 90kmph (56 mph) on country roads. In towns, don't exceed 60kmph (37 mph).

Maps -- For France as a whole, most motorists opt for Michelin map 989. For regions, Michelin publishes a series of yellow maps that are quite good. Big travel-book stores in North America carry these maps, and they're commonly available in France (at lower prices). In this age of congested traffic, one useful feature of the Michelin map is its designations of alternative routes de dégagement, which let you skirt big cities and avoid traffic-clogged highways. They also highlight routes in green, which are recommended for tourists.

Another recommended option is Frommer's Road Atlas Europe.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- A breakdown is called une panne in France. Call the police at tel. 17 anywhere in France to be put in touch with the nearest garage. If the breakdown occurs on an expressway, find the nearest roadside emergency phone box, pick up the phone, and put a call through. You'll be connected to the nearest breakdown service facility.

By Plane

Regrettably, there are few competitors in the world of domestic air travel within France. Air France (tel. 800/237-2747; www.airfrance.com) serves about eight cities in France. Airfares tend to be much higher than for comparable distances in the United States, and discounts are few. Air travel time from Paris to most anywhere in France is about an hour.

By Train

Rail services between the large cities of Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence and the French Riviera are excellent. If you don't have a car, you can tour all the major hot spots by train. Of course, with a car you can also explore the hidden villages, such as the little Riviera hill towns, but for short visits with only major stopovers on your itinerary, such as Nice and Avignon, the train should suffice. Service is fast and frequent.

The major train hub for Languedoc is the city of Toulouse, which has frequent service from Paris and Lyon. Toulouse is also linked to Marseille by 11 trains every day. Montpellier is another major transportation hub for the Languedoc-Roussillon area. Eleven high-speed TGVs arrive daily from Paris, taking just 3 1?2 hours. Montpellier also has good rail connections to Avignon. The ancient city of Nîmes, one of the most visited in the area, also is a major rail terminus, a stop on the rail link between Bordeaux and Marseille.

Marseille, the largest city in the south of France, has rail connections with all major towns on the Riviera as well as with the rest of France. Seventeen high-speed TGVs arrive from Paris daily (trip time: 3 hr. 15 min.).

The major rail transportation hub along the French Riviera is Nice, although Cannes also enjoys good train connections. Nice and Monaco are linked by frequent service, and in summer about eight trains per day connect Nice with the rapid TGV train from Paris to Marseille. In winter, the schedule is curtailed depending on demand.

The most visited Riviera destination in the east, Monaco also has excellent rail links along the Riviera.

The website for the national rail service is www.voyages-sncf.com. Otherwise, call tel. 36-35, or 08-92-35-35-35 when outside France.