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The Best Romantic Getaways
Les Baux (Provence): Les Baux stands in a spectacular position on a promontory of sheer rock ravines. In the distance across the plain, you can view the Val d'Enfer (Valley of Hell). After a turbulent history, the town today is one of the great escapes for savvy French who can gaze from their windows on the thousands of olive trees (many planted by the Greeks) that produce the best oil in France. Posh little Les Baux also has some of the country's grandest inns and finest cuisine. The most notable is L'Oustau de Beaumanière, Maussanel-les-Alpilles (tel. 04-90-54-33-07; www.oustaudebaumaniere.com) -- after you and your loved one sample the ravioli with truffles, you'll understand why.
Iles d'Hyères (Provence): If an off-the-record weekend is what you have in mind, there's no better spot than the "Iles d'Or," as they were known during the Renaissance because of the golden glow of the island's rocks in the sun. This string of enchanting little islands is 39km (24 miles) east-southeast of the port of Toulon. The largest and westernmost island is Ile de Porquerolles, thickly covered with heather, eucalyptus, and exotic shrubs. Ile de Port-Cros is hilly and mysterious, with spring-fed lush vegetation. The best spot for a romantic retreat is on this island -- Le Manoir (tel. 04-94-05-90-52), an 18th-century colonial-style mansion set in a park.
Mougins (Western Riviera): Only 8.1km (5 miles) north of Cannes, the once-fortified town of Mougins is a thousand years old, but never in its history has it been so popular as a place to enjoy the good life. Picasso, who could afford to live anywhere, chose a place nearby, Notre-Dame-de-Vie, to spend his last years. The wonderful old town is known for its cuisine, and Roger Vergé reigns supreme at his elegant Le Moulin de Mougins (tel. 04-93-75-78-24; www.moulin-mougins.com). However, you can live for less at more secluded and less publicized oases.
Peillon (Eastern Riviera): Of all the "perched" villages (villages perchés) along the Côte d'Azur, this fortified medieval town on a craggy mountaintop 19km (12 miles) northeast of Nice is our favorite. Peillon is the least spoiled of the perched villages and still guards its medieval look, with covered alleys and extremely narrow streets. Tour buses avoid the place, but artists and writers flock there (we once spotted Françoise Sagan) to escape the mad carnival of the Riviera. For a cozy hideaway with your significant other, try the Auberge de la Madone (tel. 04-93-79-91-17). Dinner for two on the terrace set among olive trees is the best way to start a romantic evening.
Roquebrune & Cap-Martin (Eastern Riviera): Along the Grande Corniche, Roquebrune is one of the most charming of the Côte d'Azur's villages, and its satellite resort of Cap-Martin occupies a lovely wooded peninsula. Between Monaco and Menton, these two have long been romantic retreats. The best choice for hiding away with that certain someone is the Hôtel Vista Palace, Grande Corniche (tel. 04-92-10-40-00; www.vistapalace.com), a modern luxury hotel clinging giddily to a cliff side over Monte Carlo.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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