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The Best Wines & Vineyards
Southern France is home to thousands of vineyards, many of which are somewhat anonymous agrarian bureaucracies known as cooperatives. Employees at these cooperatives tend to be less enthusiastic about showing off their product than those who work at true vineyards, where the person pouring your dégustation des vins might be the son or daughter of one of the owners. At least in southern France, don't assume that just because the word Château appears in the name that there'll be a magnificent historic residence associated with the property. In some cases, the crenellated battlement you're looking for might be nothing more than a feudal ruin.
We selected the vineyards below because of the emotional involvement of their (private) owners, their degree of prestige, and, in many cases, their architectural interest. We've provided you with all of the information you need to visit these vineyards, which are not listed elsewhere in this guide.
Château de Simone, 13590 Meyreuil (tel. 04-42-66-92-58; www.chateau-simone.fr): This well-respected vintner lies less than .5km (1/3 mile) north of Aix-en-Provence. The vineyards surround a small 18th-century palace that might have been transported unchanged from La Belle du bois dormant. You can't visit the interior, but you can buy bottles of the recent crops of reds, rosés, and whites for between 26€ and 30€ ($34-$39) each. Because production at this vineyard is relatively small, you're limited to purchases of between 3 and 12 bottles, depending on the vintage. Advance notification is important. From Aix, take N7 toward Nice and then follow the signs to Trois Sautets.
Château Virant, R.D. 10, 13680 Lançon-de-Provence (tel. 04-90-42-44-47; www.chateauvirant.com): Set 23km (14 miles) west of Aix-en-Provence and 35km (22 miles) north of Marseille, and named after a nearby rock whose ruined feudal fortress is barely standing, this vineyard produces Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée-designated Côteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, as well as a translucent brand of olive oil from fruit grown on the property. The English-speaking Cheylan family showcases a labyrinth of cellars dating from 1630 and 1890. Tours and tastings can be arranged. The most expensive bottle here costs 15€ ($20). Ask for an explanation of their trademark vin cuit (cooked wine) de Virant, which is popular around these parts as a beverage at Christmastime. Notification in advance of your visit is wise.
Château de Calissanne, R.D. 10, 13680 Lançon-de-Provence (tel. 04-90-42-63-03; www.calissanne.fr): On the premises is a substantial 18th-century white-stone manor house sporting very old terra-cotta tiles and a sense of the ancien régime. Even older is the Gallo-Roman oppidum Constantine, a sprawling ruined fortress that you can visit if you obtain a special pass from the sales staff. The white, rosé, and red Côteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and the two grades of olive oil produced by the property are sold in an outbuilding. Wine sells for less than 20€ ($26) per bottle. Advance reservations are vital. You'll find this place clearly signposted in Lançon-de-Provence, nearly adjacent to the above-mentioned Château Virant.
Château d'Aqueria, Route de Roquemaure, 30126 Tavel (tel. 04-66-50-04-56; www.aqueria.com): Wines produced near the Provençal town of Tavel are considered some of the finest rosés in the world, and vintners here are expert at the fermentation of a brand that's sought after by wine lovers from as far away as Paris. An 18th-century château on the premises can be viewed only from the outside, and cellars and wine shops sell bottles of the famous pink wine at prices that rarely exceed 12€ ($16) a bottle. To reach it, drive 6km (4 miles) northwest of Avignon along the Route de Bagnols, following the signs to Tavel.
Château de Fonscolombe (tel. 04-42-61-70-01) and Château de LaCoste (tel. 04-42-61-89-98), 13610 Le Puy Ste-Réparade: These vineyards are adjacent to each other, 20km (13 miles) north of Aix-en-Provence. Fonscolombe has an exterior-only view of an 18th-century manor house, and offers tours of a modern facility of interest to wine-industry professionals. LaCoste is smaller and less state of the art, but it offers an exterior view of a stone-sided villa that was built for a cardinal during the reign of the popes in Avignon. At either of these outfits, you can buy their red, white, and rosé wines, the most expensive of which sells for only 14€ ($18). Advance notification is required. From Aix, take the A51 in the direction of Sisteron, exiting at exit 12 toward Le Puy Ste-Réparade.
Domaine de Fontavin, 1468 rte. de la Plaine, 84350 Courthézon (tel. 04-90-70-72-14; www.fontavin.com): Set 10km (6 miles) north of Carpentras, this is one of the leading producers of the heady, sweet dessert wine Muscat des Baumes de Venise. As the organization here dates only from 1989, there's nothing particularly noteworthy in terms of architecture on-site. But oenophiles appreciate its proximity to some of the most legendary grapevines in the French-speaking world. Bottles of the sweet elixir are sold at a price that rarely exceeds 16€ ($21) each. Follow the N7 from Carpentras in the direction of Orange and Courthézon.
Château de Coussin, 1468 rte. de la Plain, 13530 Trets (tel. 04-90-70-72-14; www.chateau-elie-sumeire.fr.com): This property, 16km (10 miles) east of Aix-en-Provence, is centered on a 16th-century manor whose stone facade bears geometric reliefs associated with Renaissance-era construction in Provence. The vineyards are scattered over three neighboring regions and have been owned by the same family for nearly a century. The château's interior (it contains a vaulted cloister) can be visited only with the hard-to-obtain permission of the owners, but the overview of the winemaking industry as seen within its bottling facility is worth the trip. Bottles sell for a maximum of 36€ ($47) each, and in some cases for much less.
Château de Grand'Boise, 13530 Trets (tel. 04-42-29-22-95): An amiable competitor on property almost immediately adjacent to Château de Coussin, the centerpiece of these vineyards, olive groves, forests, and hunting preserves is a venerable 19th-century château. The organization's cellars, as well as the château itself, can be visited if you phone in advance for an appointment. Bottles of red, white, and rosé sell for less than 14€ ($18) each.
Château de Capitoul, Route de Gruissan, 1100 Narbonne (tel. 04-68-49-23-30; www.chateau-capitoul.com): Set farther to the west than most of the other vineyards mentioned here, Château de Capitoul produces reds ("La Clape des Rocailles"), whites, and rosés that usually sell for 6€ to 10€ ($7.80-$13) a bottle but, in some rare instances, go as high as 38€ ($49). Nestled amid its vineyards is a 19th-century manor house that can be visited with special permission granted in advance from the owners. More easily accessible are the cellars, in a nearby annex. Call in advance of your arrival. From Narbonne, drive 5km (3 miles) east, following the D32 (Route de Gruissan).
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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