Active Pursuits

Beaches

With nine-tenths of its territory (basically, all but the "downtown" area) protected by the Cape Cod National Seashore (CCNS), Provincetown has miles of beaches. The 3-mile bay beach that lines the harbor, though certainly swimmable, is not all that inviting compared to the magnificent ocean beaches overseen by the National Seashore. The two official access areas tend to be crowded; however, you can always find a less densely populated stretch if you're willing to hike.

Note: Local beachgoer activists have been lobbying for "clothing-optional" beaches for years, but the rangers, fearful of voyeurs trampling the dune grass, are firmly opposed and routinely issue tickets, so stand forewarned (and fully clothed).

• Herring Cove and Race Point: Both National Seashore beaches are spectacular, with long stretches of pristine sand, and they are very popular. Herring Cove, facing west, is known for its spectacular sunsets; observers often applaud. Race Point, on the ocean side, is rougher, and you might actually spot whales en route to Stellwagen Bank. Calmer Herring Cove is a haven for same-sex couples, who tend to sort themselves by gender. Parking costs $15 per day, $45 per season.
• Long Point: Trek out over the breakwater and beyond by catching a water shuttle to visit this very last spit of land, capped by an 1827 lighthouse. Locals call it "the end of the Earth." Shuttles run hourly from 9am to 5pm in July and August -- $8 one-way, $12 round-trip, hourly in season or by demand off season -- from Flyer's Boat Rental, located at slip 2 on MacMillan Wharf.

Bicycling

North of town, nestled amid the Cape Cod National Seashore preserve, is one of the more spectacular bike paths in New England, the 7-mile Province Lands Trail, a heady swirl of steep dunes (watch out for sand drifts on the path) anchored by wind-stunted scrub pines. With its free parking, the Province Lands Visitor Center (tel. 508/487-1256) is a good place to start: You can survey the landscape from the observation tower to try to get your bearings before setting off amid the dizzying maze. Signs point to spur paths leading to Race Point or Herring Cove beaches. Bike rentals are offered May through October at Gale Force Bikes at 144 Bradford St. (tel. 508/487-4849) in the West End. The Province Lands Trail begins nearby. The Beach Market, on-site at Gale Force Bikes, offers delicious sandwiches and wraps (think Thanksgiving dinner -- complete with roast turkey, stuffing, and fresh cranberries -- in a wrap) and other picnic fare for your ride. It's also an easy jaunt from town, where you'll find plenty of good bike shops -- such as the centrally located Ptown Bikes at 42 Bradford St. (tel. 508/487-8735; reserve several days in advance) -- as well as all the picnic fixings you could possibly desire. Bike rentals cost $20 for 24 hours.

Boating

In addition to operating a Long Point shuttle from its own dock, Flyer's Boat Rental at 131 Commercial St. in the West End (tel. 508/487-0898) -- established in 1945 -- offers all sorts of crafts, from kayaks ($30-$50 half-day for singles and tandems) to various sailboats ($40-$75 for a half-day).

Fishing

Surf-casting is permitted at Herring Cove Beach (off Rte. 6) and Race Point Beach (near the Race Point Coast Guard Station); many people drop a hand-line or light tackle right off the West End breakwater. For low-cost deep-sea fishing via party boat, board the Cee Jay (tel. 508/487-4330); it makes two 4-hour trips a day and costs $35 for adults and $25 for children. Both depart from MacMillan Wharf.

Fitness

For days when the weather forces your workouts indoors, the Provincetown Gym at 81 Shank Painter Rd. (tel. 508/487-2776) has the usual equipment and promises a non-intimidating atmosphere. Day passes cost $15. The Mussel Beach Health Club, 35 Bradford St. (tel. 508/487-0001), attracts a rather buff clientele. Day passes are $20. For post-workout pampering, book a massage or herbal wrap at the West End Salon & Spa, 155 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-1872).

Nature Trails

Within the Province Lands (off Race Point Rd., 1/2 mile north of Rte. 6), the Cape Cod National Seashore maintains the 1-mile, self-guided Beech Forest Trail, a shaded path that circles a shallow freshwater pond blanketed with water lilies (also look for sunning turtles) before heading into the woods. You can see the shifting dunes (much of this terrain is soft sand) gradually encroaching on the forest.

A walk along the West End breakwater and out to the end of Long Point, about 5 miles round-trip, is for hearty hikers. Walking just to the end of the wide breakwater, located at the end of Commercial Street next to the Provincetown Inn, is quite popular and takes about 30 minutes each way. You'll see all ages maneuvering the layered boulders. If you want to continue to Long Point, the very tip of Cape Cod, it's about an hour and a half across soft sand to the end of the point. At low tide, the distance can be shortened by cutting across the salt flats. Wood End Lighthouse is directly across the spit of sand near the breakwater. Long Point Lighthouse is at the end of the point. Hikers determined to reach the end of Long Point will want to bring a hat, water, and sunscreen for this intense trek along the beach. The outside of the arm, where you look out on Cape Cod Bay, tends to be the more scenic route for contemplative hikers; the inside of the arm has views of Provincetown and Provincetown Harbor and a couple of shipwrecks. The Long Point Shuttle runs from Flyer's Boat Rental in the West End across to Long Point for $15 round-trip. Service is continuous in season.

Tennis

Three public courts are located at Motta Memorial Field at the top of Winslow Street (near the Provincetown Monument); for details, contact the Provincetown Recreation Department (tel. 508/487-7097). Open mid-May to mid-October, the Provincetown Tennis Club at 186 Bradford St. (tel. 508/487-9574) has seven courts -- two asphalt, five clay -- tucked amid tall trees. Court time is $24 to $34 an hour. If you plan to visit the courts several times during your stay, it may pay to get the season pass, $80 per person for unlimited play.