Shopping

If you want to stay one step ahead of the fashion-victims' pack, you have come to the right place. Many mavens visit off season just to stock up on markdowns that are still well ahead of the curve. Of the several dozen art galleries in town, quite a few are reliably worthwhile. For the largest concentration of galleries, wander down to the east end of town. (For in-depth coverage of the local arts scene, look to Provincetown Arts, a glossy annual sold at the Provincetown Art Association & Museum shop.) In season, most of the galleries and even some of the shops open around 11am, and then take a supper-time siesta from around 5 to 7pm, reopening and greeting visitors up to as late as 10 or 11pm. Shows usually open Friday evening, prompting a "stroll" tradition spanning the many receptions.

Antiques/Collectibles

Remembrances of Things Past, 376 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-9443), is a kitsch-fest with a jumble of 20th-century nostalgia ranging from Bakelite bangles to neon advertising art to vintage True Confessions.

At Small Pleasures, 359 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-3712), proprietor Virginia McKenna (also known as "Ginny Jewels") stocks fine estate jewelry, ranging from romantic Victorian settings to sleek silver for the 1920s-era male.

Art Galleries

Showing the work of Provincetown's past and current luminaries, Albert Merola Gallery, 424 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-4424), is simply one of the best galleries in town. Each summer, such respected figures as Michael Mazur (Dante's Inferno) and Helen Miranda Wilson deliver their latest musings. Closed mid-October to March.

Berta Walker is a force to be reckoned with, having nurtured many top artists through her association with the Fine Arts Work Center before opening her own gallery in 1990. At Berta Walker Gallery, 208 Bradford St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-6411), the historic holdings span Charles Hawthorne, Milton Avery, and Robert Motherwell. Whoever has Berta's current attention, such as figurative sculptor Romolo Del Deo, warrants watching. Closed late October to late May.

Founded in 1994 by artist and publishing scion Nick Lawrence, DNA (Definitive New Art) Gallery, 288 Bradford St. above the Provincetown Tennis Club in the East End (tel. 508/487-7700), has risen to the top tier. It has attracted such talents as photographer Joel Meyerowitz, Provincetown's favorite portraitist, known for such tomes as Cape Light; sculptor Conrad Malicoat, whose free-form brick chimneys and hearths can be seen and admired about town; and painter Tabitha Vevers, who devises woman-centered shrines and "shields" out of goatskin vellum and gold leaf. Another contributor is local conceptualist/provocateur Jay Critchley. It's a very lively bunch, appropriately grouped under the rubric "definitive new art," and readings by cutting-edge authors add to the buzz. Closed mid-October to late May.

The Fine Arts Works Center displays weekly shows that are always worth checking out in its Hudson D. Walker Gallery, 24 Pearl St. in the center of town (tel. 508/487-9960; www.fawc.org). The center is the veritable heart of creativity in town, since it supports a crew of creative artists and writers on fellowships in residence every year.

Julie Heller started collecting early P-town paintings as a child -- and a tourist at that. She chose so incredibly well, her roster at Julie Heller Gallery, 2 Gosnold St. on the beach in the center of town (tel. 508/487-2169), reads like a who's who of local art. Hawthorne, Avery, Hofmann, Lazzell, Hensche -- all the big names from Provincetown's past are here, as well as some contemporary artists. Closed weekdays January to April. Open winter weekends by chance or appointment.

The work of Anne Packard and her daughters Cynthia and Leslie are displayed in The Packard Gallery, 418 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-4690), a majestic former church. Anne Packard's large canvases tend to depict emotive land- and seascapes with the horizon as a focus. Cynthia's colorful figurative work has Fauvist elements, and Leslie's watercolors capture Provincetown landscapes. Closed mid-October to mid-June.

At Rice/Polak Gallery, 430 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-1052), you'll find art with a decorative bent, which is not to say that it will match anyone's sofa, only that it has a certain stylish snap. Several gallery artists have fun with dimensions -- such as painter Tom Seghi with his mammoth pears, and sculptor Larry Calkins with his assemblages of undersize, antique-look dresses. Peter Plamondon's oil paintings capture still lifes with exquisite clarity. Closed December to April.

Schoolhouse Gallery, 494 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-4800), is an impressive setup with two galleries, studios, arts programs, and an events series. The Driskel Gallery features photography and fine objects, while the Silas-Kenyon Gallery shows contemporary fine arts.

William-Scott Gallery, 439 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-4040), can be counted on to showcase the work of local emerging artists, as well as several who seem to have made it. In the latter category is John Dowd. Still quite young, his patrons include the Schiffenhaus brothers, who inherited the Hoppers' Truro house. Other selections, such as John DiMestico's Cape landscapes on paper, Dan Rupe's bold portraits in oil, and Will Klemm's lush and mysterious pastel landscapes, augur well for an influential future. Closed December to late May.

Books

Now Voyager, 357 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-0848), offers both new and collectible gay and lesbian books and serves as an informal social center. There is also a large section of mystery and suspense books.

Provincetown Bookstore, 246 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-0964), has the most complete selection in town. You'll find all the bestsellers, as well as books about the region and local lore.

Discount Shopping

Marine Specialties, 235 Commercial St. in the center of town (tel. 508/487-1730), is packed to the rafters with useful stuff, from discounted Doc Martens to cut-rate Swiss Army knives and all sorts of odd nautical surplus whose uses will suggest themselves to you eventually. Be sure to look up: Hanging from the ceiling are some real antiques, including several carillons' worth of ships' bells.

Erotica

The dirtiest (and I don't mean dusty) store in Provincetown is Shop Therapy, 346 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-9387), a store with wild murals (or is it graffiti) that are filled with all manner of erotica. You'll want to wander in just for the sheer outrageousness of it all. Tall people beware; there's stuff hanging from the low ceiling that you might not want near your face.

Fashion

Giardelli/Antonelli Studio Showroom, 417 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-3016), is filled with Jerry Giardelli's unstructured clothing elements -- shells, shifts, and palazzo pants -- in vibrant colors and inviting textures. They demand to be mixed, matched, and perhaps offset by Diana Antonelli's statement jewelry.

Want to try on new identities? Mad as a Hatter, 360 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-4063), may be your best bet, with hats to suit every style and inclination, from folksy to downright diva-esque. Closed January to mid-February.

Moda Fina, 349 Commercial St. (tel. 508/487-6632), specializes in women's clothing and accessories, including shoes and lingerie, and a variety of unique summer dresses.

Silk & Feathers, 377 Commercial St. in the East End (tel. 508/487-2057), has seasonal styles, and the lingerie they sell is almost too pretty to cover up. Other indulgences include seaweed soaps and statement jewelry.

Gifts/Home Decor

A breath of fresh contemporary design, Utilities, 393 Commercial St. in the center of town (tel. 508/487-6800), is a kitchenware/tabletop shop that features sleek and colorful essentials.

A study in beiges and blacks, Wa, 184 Commercial St. in the West End (tel. 508/487-6355), is a minimalist shop -- its name means "harmony" in Japanese -- specializing in decorative home accessories that embrace a Zen aesthetic. This might mean a trickling stone fountain or Chinese calligraphy stones.

Toys

Take advantage of the Cape's strong winds and wide-open beaches by shopping at Outer Cape Kites, 277A Commercial St. at Ryder Street Extension, near MacMillan Wharf (tel. 508/487-6133). Closed mid-October to March.