Mariachis play daily, beginning at 6pm, on Plaza de Santa Inés, Calle 11 Poniente and Calle 3 Sur. They stroll through the crowds that gather at the sidewalk cafes. Another square where you can hear live music is Plaza de los Sapos, Calle 7 Oriente near Calle 6 Sur. To get there, walk 2 blocks south from the zócalo and take a left onto Calle 7 Oriente, toward the river. The plaza will be on your left, spreading out between Calle 7 and Calle 5 Oriente just past Calle 4 Sur. If you take Calle 5 Oriente from the cathedral to reach the Plaza de los Sapos, you'll pass several local hangouts where students and artists gather for conversation, coffee, drinks, snacks, and live music.
Another place to hear live music is down the block from los Sapos at Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía, Calle 6 Sur 304. A singer-guitarist entertains with popular ballads from 9pm to midnight. The moderately priced restaurant serves a complete selection of Puebla specialties.
Teorema, Reforma 540, near Calle 7 Norte (tel. 222/242-1014), is a good coffee shop and bookstore that features guitarists and folksingers every evening. It's open daily from 9:30am to 2:30pm and 4:30pm to midnight.
